OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Honda Engines Honda GVX160

Would anyone please be able to point me in the direction of a repair manual for a Honda GVX160. I have just been given one for free and the only problem is both rear wheels have been removed(and are currently dangling off the handle by a bit of string). I didn't ask why the owner decided to remove them because I was too keen to throw it in the trailer before he changed his mind.
Any help with a manual or failing that any advice on how to put it back together is greatly appreciated.

Ok i guess i should have added that it is a self propelled mower.

Hi Joe, welcome to Outdoorking.

It is the engine that is a GXV160, you haven't told us what the mower is. If it is one of the specifically Australian models, it might be an HRU216, HRU196, or something odd such as a utility. Any HRU model is a specifically Australian effort, and I've never seen or heard of a workshop manual for any of them. Here is an owner manual for one of the international models of 21 inch self-propelled Hondas with the GXV160 engine:
http://dl.owneriq.net/9/9da3d438-eee3-47a6-b571-b9bdab4040f6.pdf

Please post some pictures of your mower, so we can try to identify it.

Post Edit: The mower is not a Honda, it is an unbranded machine that has a Honda engine.

The first question you need to resolve, aside from what model your Honda is, is whether it is in a safe condition to start. That means checking whether the sump is full of oil, and whether that oil is reasonably clean. Having jumped that hurdle, the next step would be to prop up the back of the mower securely with the blades off the ground, and start the engine, following the instructions in the owner manual. See if the wheel drive can be engaged, and whether the rear axles rotate when you do so. If they do, you can begin to hope the previous owner's problem was with the over-running clutches on both rear wheels. If the axles do not rotate, you have a lot more to worry about than wheels and wheel-clutches, and we can get focused on the (rather complicated) Honda self-propulsion system.

Thanks Grumpy. A forumn that actually offers useful advice is a breath of fresh air. Here are a couple of pics of the mower(he types optimistically before attempting to find out how to upload pics). Suspect it is an el cheapo made in china version as is the motor.
One rear wheel appears to be missing the drive cog, both wheels appear to missing a bush or bearing. I have not had time to investigate further but the previous owner (elderly gentleman) did say the motor ran perfect and I just needed to re attach the wheels. I suspect there may have been a problem with the drive mechanism as you intimate and he pulled off the rear wheels to investigate then ended up losing interest as well as a few parts.
Suspect I will similarly loose interest and it will end up on ebay as is because I am just too snowed under and can't spend too much time on it. I now have 3 Honda mowers in the cue and as much as I'd like to I just don't get the time to tinker with them.



Thanks again for your advice.

The GXV160 engines are just about all made in China these days, and have been for some time. It doesn't seem to be a problem.

Here is an exploded view of the wheel parts, with part numbers, from the Honda parts list:
http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/honda_rear_wheel_hrc216s.php

As with many Honda designs, it is rather complex compared with many other mowers, but probably works better than most as well. I think you can clear up your problem just by identifying the parts from the exploded view, and seeing whether you have them all, as well as how to put them together.

Being a self-propelled Honda, that is a very expensive lawnmower, which looks rather new, but would probably sell for peanuts on ebay in an incomplete non-functional state. I'm not up with current models but that one may be a "parallel import" of an American model not imported through Honda Australia and not warranted by them. It is probably less than an hour's work to put it together and make it worth over $1,000, provided you have the grass catcher for it.

Perfect. Thanks for that. Just what I was after.
Blimey, I didn't know they were that expensive and yes I do have the catcher.
Need to go back and see the guy later in the week so will ask him if he has any bits left over. He is a very well to do retired gentleman for whom I often do favors for at short notice which he obviously appreciates.
Looks like all that's missing is the inner bearing for each wheel, item 3, and the cog, or ratchet as they call it, for the left side axle, couple of bolts and washers to hold the wheels on which I should have by the dozens in the garage.
I'll take your advice and check that it's all running and no other problems with the drive before I start ordering parts. However if it all starts to get too complicated and time consuming she'll end up on ebay because like it's original owner I need the time more than I need the mower.
Can't thank you enough for your help. First time I've ever posted a question on a forumn and actually got some useful advice. Awesome mate.

You're welcome Joe, help is what we come here to provide.

The wheel ratchets are wearing parts on mowers with that style of self propulsion, and there seems to be a lively business selling spare ones. An issue with one of the ratchets may be what caused the owner to take it apart in the first place.

Hi Grumpy, Not quite rid of me yet. :-) Had a quick play with the mower this evening. 2 pulls and the motor purrs like a kitten but as suspected no drive, which solves the mystery as to why someone would pull the wheels off a $1000 mower and then give it away but unfortunately doesn't auger well for a quick fix.
The shaft wants to turn but no cigar. Quick look underneath reveals what looks like a square gearbox on the left side of the axle. There is a pulley at the top with a belt that engages when the drive lever is depressed. Belt seems to engage fine so all that is working ok. The pulley appears to be stiff and difficult to turn by hand. But when you do manage to turn it the wheel drive cogs rotate as they should. At this point had to flip it back over as it was dripping fuel on the lawn. I will take the cover plate off the gearbox tomorrow and check what is happening inside. Any ideas as to what I should be looking out for.?
Now that we are getting into the innards that exploded diagram doesn't seem to be the same as what's on the mower but it was still very useful to figure out which cogs and bearing were missing on the actual wheels and axle. But the drive bit doesn't appear to correlate. Though this could be me. I will know more after I drain the fuel and remove that cover plate off the gearbox.
Having said all that any advice on where I may be able to pick up any parts that are needed? Would they be available on this site's online store or should I order them from the US website the diagram was on?
Cheers.

Hi joeblo,
Can you give a photo of gearbox with cover off please so I can see if I can help.

Joe, please do as Rob (roebuck) asked and post pictures of the transmission, including with the cover off.

As a modern self-propelled Honda, I think your mower probably has the Honda hydrostatic transmission. Here is a video showing someone working on that transmission - please take a look and see if it is the same as yours:

Hi Grumpy,
Backed by the confidence of knowing I had a good forumn I could turn to for advice if I ran into trouble via yourself and also Rob who has also kindly offered to help I got stuck into this thing this afternoon and together we have had some great success in identifying the problem. (Grab a coffee this is going to take a while.
The gearbox is similar to a HRB216 or HRB217. Looks like the HRC216 may have been correct after all and the actual gearbox for that model has been discontinued and not shown hence I couldn't see it in the diagram you pointed me to. (which I now think is the correct one or very close to it)
http://www.planopower.com/store/honda/hrz216tda.php
Pic of gearbox assembly in situ. Note belt in disengaged position.


Pic of gear assembly with the cover removed. Very little to it. Pulley connects directly to a (semi) worm gear that drives the main drive gear. Will be clearer in pics that follow.


Here it is removed from mower and simply separates once top cover is removed.
Note worm gear and pulley shaft has a pressed in sealed bearing held in place by the visible circlip. Even in this disassembled state the pulley is stiff and difficult to rotate. Seriously suspecting this bearing is shot. Hoping its just a bearing an not some complicated minature clutch mechanism as it's difficult to tell while inside the casing.


Closer view of worm gear and bearing.


Shaft and bearing removed. I'm no expert but I think it's toasted. Rubber seal has been completely cooked.



Unfortunately it doesn't look like you can get individual parts for the gearbox but even if I need to buy a whole new gearbox assembly it will still turn out to be a cheap mower. But I will pull that bearing off tomorrow and get the vernier calipers out and measure it because I am pretty sure it will just be a standard size sealed bearing that I can pickup anywhere, or on ebay.

However after all that I am still missing one of the axle cogs and the a couple of wheel bushes/bearing which I may need to get from a Honda parts supplier.
Any advice on the best place to order them from.

Thanks again for all your help.

That is quite different from what I expected in several respects, Joe. I'm very glad Rob was on the case. That is an extremely simple transmission, a single speed bevel drive that is clutched by tightening and loosening the belt. It should have lasted forever, with an occasional belt replacement - I'm inclined to guess that there has been a preload error on that pinion bearing, causing it to foul its trousers almost immediately from new. Unfortunately you are going to have to clean everything up very well - there's nothing like swarf attaching itself to the crownwheel to mess everything up. What I don't understand yet is how the mesh is adjusted, and how the pinion bearing preload is controlled. I'm looking forward to more detail on the bits now, as you get to the bottom of it all. Please remember not to try to force things into place by tightening bolts: that may have been what somebody did last time, and caused this debacle.

Ballraces usually have a number on the side of the outer ring, and if you look that number up on the internet, you can find out its availability. Most types are available on ebay at favourable prices.

Oil seals are not as standardised as ballraces, but for lip seals, if you know the inner (shaft) diameter, the outside diameter, and the width, you can search ebay in a flash.

Ignore the 3rd pic. It is an out of sequence duplicate of pic 5

Hi Grumpy and Joeblow, thankyou for those great photos Joeblow.
I've recently been working on a hru 214 (gxv 120) 2 speed gear box which is quite different to what you have.
Great job and very interesting.

Hi guys, We must have posted at the same time and my post about the out of sequence pic ended up being out of sequence itself. Damn, I was hoping Rob may be able to shed some more light on the issues raised by grumpy. :-)
I am not across the proper technical terms for the various parts but good job so far deciphering my gibberish. Yes that load issue Grumpy mentions between the 2 gears also has me bamboozled. The position of that spring and tension direction is almost counter intuitive. The main gear is fixed in position and pinned in place on the axle so there is only one place it can go. The gearbox casing can move along the axle but only in the direction which increases the load between the 2 gears. That spring must be there to absorb some of that load and provide a bit of flexibility to prevent cracks and breaks etc. Once the casing is in place on the axle by depressing the spring and fitting the lips of those 2 alloy blocks on the axle inside the gearbox casing it has to be right because there is absolutely zero adjustment that I can see. The only way that I can see to adjust that load is by varying the thickness of the washer you see just to the left of the main cog. You can see it if you look closely in pic 4, between the cog and the alloy block on the axle. The protruding bit between the cog and the wash is part of the cog. I guess you could also machine that down a bit also to lighten the load but not exactly what you would call user adjustable. Probably a common failure due to this shortcoming and maybe why this gearbox has been discontinued. Or maybe this is an el cheapo gearbox that was never fitted on any real Honda's. Who knows.

Let's address this one point at a time. First, the pinion bearing is the part that failed. Is it (really, I mean was it) a double-row bearing? That would be a cheap way to avoid the whole preload issue. It doesn't tell us why it broke up, but for the moment we can hope it was just lack of lubrication at the Honda factory. You need a new bearing of course - please post a picture of the numbers on the side of the outer ring of the old bearing if you can.

Second, there is the issue of how the clearance between the crownwheel (the large bevel gear) and the pinion (the small bevel gear) is managed. The pinion is in a fixed position. We haven't yet seen how its location is determined, it may use something rudimentary like a circlip at one end and a shoulder in the housing at the other end. Please post pictures when you dismantle the pinion and pinion housing. The crownwheel is pushed in the out-of-mesh direction by a spring, and its actual position is set by the flanged aluminium block behind the crownwheel's support spacer. Note the grubscrew in that spacer which keeps the axle shaft from slipping through and getting out of position. It appears the gear to gear clearance is permanently set by the flanged block and the width of that spacer. There may have been selective assembly at the factory, probably by choosing the correct spacer to get the required clearance, but it is not really critical, given that the parts rotate rather slowly and are not going to cover a whole lot of miles in the life of the mower. It seems a simple and effective design which should be highly reliable. Nothing needs to be done to it except clean it all up properly to remove the swarf that will currently be in everything. When you put it back together, the mesh will be right, as long as you don't make any mistakes.

I do not think the pinion bearing failure was caused by incorrect clearance between the gears, I think it began with failure of the pinion bearing. I think if there had been lack of clearance between the gears it would have been likely to result in heavy wear on the aluminium block where the crownwheel support spacer bears against it, and that wear would quickly have provided the necessary clearance. Note that even if everything is working well there must be some wear on that block, because the spring pushes the crownwheel against it. Furthermore in its last days the breakup of the pinion bearing provided a large supply of swarf which will have embedded itself in the crownwheel's teeth, and that will have caused heavy pressure trying to move the crownwheel away from the pinion. Hence there will be signs of excessive pressure between the spacer and the aluminium block anyway, due to those last days when the gears were swarf-lubricated.

My guess is that what you have is a transmission design that was probably very reliable indeed, but had the disadvantage of only providing one speed. American mower buyers seem to be greatly attracted to a choice of speeds, so Honda provided 2 speed, 3 speed and ultimately hydrostatic gearboxes to give the customer what he or she wants.

Pretty sure the closest this transmission and frame have ever been to a Honda factory is the sticker on the engine. It's rubbish and probably a generic single speed cheapie that appears, or is soon to appear, on all self propelled mowers sold out of Aldi and K-Mart. That said it's probably just a matter of time before the whole gearbox becomes available on ebay for 20 bucks free postage out of china. Ive decided it's just now worth the effort repairing given that I also need to chase up a drive cog for the wheels. Will remove all that paraphernalia, slap the wheels back on and leave it as a good push mower.
Interesting exercise though and a good warmup before I tackle the other real Honda. Haven't looked at it since I got it 12 months ago so no idea why it too was given away. For some reason people keep giving me mowers. Probably trying to tell me something about the state of my front garden.

I think I'd rather fix it as good as possible and tapped a grease nipple into it . Was looking forward to the end result.

I think with a clean up and simple repair, that would be the best single speed transmission I've ever seen.

Hi guys, Here is an update which may be of use for future reference to anyone who stumbles across this post. My youngest son turned up today and the first thing he said when he got out of the car was "where did you get the Toro mower" So after I pick my jaw up off the ground I ducked down the back shed where I remember having a Toro Recycler. (another freebee waiting for attention.) Flipped it over and the transmission and setup is pretty much identical. Looks like this thing is an unbranded version of the Toro frame and transmission, or at the very least a cheap copy of one.
The bearing in question is 12mm inside diam, 32mm outer and 14mm wide. Quick lookup on a bearing cross reference chart shows the number is 62201RS available anywhere for around 15 bucks.
Looking further and the whole transmission is available for under $100 from the usa. (includes delivery)
A transmission gear kit is available for about 40 bucks on ebay. 13 available/17 sold just on one seller gives an indication of its reliability or, giving it the benefit of the doubt, an indication of how common it is.
The bearing failure seems to be a common problem given it could not be in a worse environment. When I pulled the old bearing off the shaft it was caked with grit, grass and dirt between the rollers.
Will order a new bearing and put this transmission back together out of curiosity. (resisting the temptation to just swap it out with the Toro in the shed as it seems ok at a quick glance). Might try adding a rubber cap around the shaft, pushed down as close as possible to the case to add and extra layer of protection which should prevent at least some of the dust and grit from getting into bearing via the space between the shaft and case. (Also probably a good idea to rip the cover off these things once in a while and give the gears a clean and re-grease.)
Hopefully will find some time to put it back together soon and will then post the result and pics.

I was distracted by that large black plastic cover on the front of the base, from noticing that the mower is unbranded. I simply imagined that there was proper Honda identification under that black plastic.

Are you saying the transmission does not have a proper lip seal on the pinion shaft? It can't work without that unless that is a sealed ballrace, or you follow Rob's suggestion and fit a grease nipple to an easily accessible part of the housing. Then you grease-pack it, and every time you service the mower, you give it a few pumps of grease so that it pushes grease out from the pinion shaft until it starts to come out clean,. That was a traditional way to make machinery long, long ago, but it is certainly not the Honda way.

There is a point I'd like to clear up. You said the pinion bearing is a 62201 RS. That is a bearing with a seal on one side, open on the other side. A sealed version would be 62201 2RS. A sealed version with metal side plates on both sides, would be 62201 ZZRS. However retailers don't always tell you the full code, accurately. I suggest you need to buy a sealed bearing, if possible with metal side plates, for that job.

If the side bearings of the drive are actually plain, not ballraces, Rob's suggestion seems like a good one when combined with a decent sealed pinion ballrace. That will get rid of any dirt that threatens to penetrate the housing through the axle shafts.

I'm disappointed that they have used a single-row ballrace for that pinion bearing. Single-row bearings should only be withstanding a radial load, not a bending load. For a small bending load, you need a double-row bearing. For a substantial bending load, you need two bearings some distance apart. That pinion bearing is subjected to a fairly small bending load, so it should be double row.

That gearbox appears to be a Talon one I have attached a parts list so that you can compare.

Hi JoBlo and Bruce,
Did you'll ever figure out what brand/model that mower was? I just got a castaway mower that looks great. But the engine dies a couple of seconds after starting. Im guessing someone randomly tweaked the control box screws before giving up.

Looking for any help on getting the thing moving. The engine looks in great shape btw. No scratches or anything.

Hi Naz, welcome here,
What motor is it and what you describe sounds like a carby problem

I have a mower that looks the same as the one on page 1 but mine says Shogun on the front ,I also have a Baumr AG mower
that has the same base as the Honda powered Shogun so I'd say an Asian made base / mower.

Hi NormK,
It has a Honda GXV160 engine (Made in China).

You pull the cord, the motor starts and if you dont hold the throttle right up and the top (manually), it dies off.

There's a spring that I noticed is just loose (not connected to anything at one end).

The choke was not engaging initially and I twiddled around to get that working (kind of).

Tried looking for Shop manuals, but couldn't find any online.

Hi Naz, carby is going to have to be taken off and cleaned

Thanks NormK. Will try that and get back.

Anywhere I could find instructions on how to do so?

Youtube is your friend just google how to clean a Honda gxv160 carby. Not sure if they tell you to remove the plate the plate that holds the throttle cable but it does make it easier

Hi NormK,
So opened up the carburetor today and am thinking of replacing all the gaskets (they look shot to me). But not sure what to buy.

For starters there's this one between the air filter and the carb (has a metal piece in between).

Then there's (I think) a large heat shield between the carb and the engine. I dont think its supposed to be there.

There's another one behind that shield which kind of feels moulded on to the engine block (its not coming off easily). But there's a green bit behind it which tells me it might just be stuck on. I think I think I found that on EbayI found that on Ebay.

Found these 3 gaskets on Ebay for the GXV160 but that does not include the insulator 3 gaskets for GXV160

And lastly, there's this image from an age old manual that shows these parts, but I dont know how to find equivalents on Ebay.

And I was wondering if the GXV160 is the same as the GCV160, GX160 or the HRZ216 as far as carburetor gaskets are concerned?

I've attached the images for what I've described above.

Really appreciate any help or guidance. I've dived into a ton of manuals and sheets I could find for free online and

Hi Naz,
No the GCV carby is not compatible with any of the other carbies. I find usually I can salvage the gaskets. I wouldn't putt too much effort into chasing gaskets till you can prove the carby will work. I havea50%failure rate with them even after I have put them through the ultrasonic cleaner. As long as you get the gaskets on the suction side of the carby set up ok and if one is a bit damaged a bit of silicone or gasket sealer will seal it up. At this stage I don't bother fitting the air filter housing because it is a pain in the arse to set it up and hold the gaskets and spacer in position. I use a couple of 10mm nuts on the bolts so I can run the motor and make sure the carby is going to work properly . Not easy, pig of a thing but that is what you have to work with. Just take it gently because they can be very frustrating first time around. Good luck

Hi again,
Looks like it's time for a new carb. The bowl had quite a bit of gunk on the inside, the jets are all blocked and "look" rusty. And when I went to take out the part attached in the picture, it broke.

Next task: Is this the right replacement carb Carb kit for GXV160 HRU 196/216. If not, how do I identify it?

And how do I identify the sub-model of the GXV160. Is it an HRU196 / HRU216 or something else?

Naz,
Get the GXV stuff out of your head, totally different motors, only similarity between them is made by Honda. You need to look for a GCV160 carby they have the 2 bolt holes horizontal. They are about $20 just scratch around and you will find them. Just make sure it has a choke, some of the Chondas use a primer bulb

Hi Norm,
Naz was after the GXV160 carby, depth perception is harder to see in a photo (looking at some of the above ones), it's easy to order the right one from the images online.


Hi Naz, with the carb gaskets you have a few choices, I usually just cut my own from gasket paper but the side of a breakfast cereal box would also work or buy some online.

The only problem sometimes with buying a new carby is to make sure the throttle butterfly
and choke butterfly open in the correct direction for your motor.

Just realized that Max, don't know where I got the idea he was talking about a GCV160, must be a seniors moment. Yes you have to be careful with the images online with the carbies that you get the one with the rod operated choke, not the lever type ones

Hi NormK,
That worked! The mower starts now, (although its a real pain to hold the dead-mans lever, pull the throttle up to choke and then start it) and runs. Initially the engine kind of ran-away (kept accelerating), but it behaves now after I adjusted the governor bolt. Couple of new issues now:

1. How do I know if it's at the right rpm? Any app that will help me get the RPM. I tried one and it gave me 120Hz, which does not sound anywhere near right.
2. The transmission belt (self-propelling mechanism to engine shaft) has snapped quite badly (in a way that I cant get any length details off it). Any ideas on how to get a replacement?
3. Tried unscrewing the bolt on the engine shaft on which the blade holder is mounted, but didn't succeed. How can I hold the plate still while I unscrew the bolt?
4. And lastly, there's a plastic shroud that protects the belt thats held by two nuts, but the bolt heads seem to be on the other side and "might" require me to remove the engine. How do I get the shroud apart.

Im so close.... and yet so far.

Maybe this is the key. THe belt says Sanlux Z838LI, but I cant find the specs for it so far.

Hi Naz,
Not easy to get the blade carrier off without a rattle gun, without you have to get a piece of timber in there somewhere to prevent it from turning. The belt covers can be a pain to get off but you must be able to get it off without removing the motor because you would never be able to reassemble it with the new belt fitted

Hi NormK and Maxwestern,
Will be getting the belt delivered soon. Hopefully it all purrs at the end. One last issue. What grass catcher will be compatible with this model. Have attached a few pics.

Hi Naz,
I would say near impossible to find a catcher for it. All I do is cut the back out and fit a Victa rear flap and catcher to it. Bit of messing around but I have done plenty of them because I ended up with so many mowers without catchers and I had a mountain of Victa catchers

Hi Norm and Naz,

I don't think you can just cut the back out on your mower because it is the self drive .

I'd get a catcher from another mower ,not sure if this fits I would need to check but I usually
find another mowers catcher will fit https://www.cltoolcentre.com.au/mak...-assembly-for-dlm460-dlm461-dlm464z.html

I'm surprised people will spend around $550. on a Honda motor ,I know in USA you get GCV motors
new around $250. Aus dollars.

They have remote control petrol mowers with free post under $600.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Max, another option is to cut one side of the catcher down to fit in the narrow chute, I have done that once before but I had to rivet a piece of metal on the underside of the catcher to strengthen it up It was a fairly simple conversion and the mower hasn't come back so I guess it is catching ok.
With the new Honda motor, I did suggest to him that we could pick up a Honda with a blown gearbox for probably $200/250 but he said he didn't want to chase around after something second hand. His mower is 3 years old and as he is mowing lawns he needs a reliable mower and what would he do with the base which he had recently put a new gearbox in. Sometimes you just have to bight the bullet.

G'day Norm,

I usually put the Victa catcher on instead of the bag catchers when all you need to do is swap the rear flap but
usually don't spend a lot of time modifying them these days as I'd only get $80. for a serviced self drive mower.

There isn't much of a problem around my way finding bag catchers as they are mostly thrown out with the mowers,
I must have thrown out 50 bag catchers recently.

The Makita ,Ryobi ,Baumr-AG ,Shogun ,Ferrex ,etc have similar catchers that can easily be fitted ,but not worth
buying a new catcher as you would easily buy a good mower with catcher cheaper than a new catcher.

Sometimes the catcher frame needs a slight hammering to widen the opening 3mm and the angle of the
catcher can be wrong when fitted but if you bend the catcher frame down a little it solves that problem
and takes less time than changing the rear flap if you used the Victa catcher.

Had a few self drive mowers where I just sold them without a catcher as I used a mulch plug with the
mower instead.


Cheers
Max.

Max,
I have about 10 mowers up in a back shed that have been there since covid, I will pull them out over winter and go through them and that will be the end of me fixing mowers, then I will just work on rideons and heavy slashers. I still have probably 40 2 stroke Victa motors so I might build a few of those up. I have 10 bases out the back that have been repaired and painted so I can put those together as well

I've got the mower finally working. Now to find a catcher for it.

Good luck with that Naz

10 mowers at $80 each would take me 20 years to sell Norm ,I will probably get rid of my mowers for $50. each and that will only take 5
years to sell 5 mowers.or just scrap them.

Hi Max,
I don't have 20 years left to sell these mowers so most will probably go to the scrap

G'day Norm,


Hopefully you can still turn a profit with the slashers and ride on mowers in the future.
Not sure if there will be any mower shops left in 20 years .
I see a lot of people now mowing their yard with an electric mower ,it must be hurting mower shops now that there are no filters to replace and no oil to change.


Cheers
Max.

I think mower shops pretty much rely on contractors for their work and spares sales and the occasional domestic customer and I don't think too many contractors will be switching to electric mowers. Maybe hedgers and blowers and maybe the odd snipper.

Yes I don't know statistically how many contractors have switched to electric mowers now .I would think it's the minority of them.

I had a mower shop guy tell me years ago about a few mower contractors that were already using electric mowers Norm ,I guess if it saves them money with no servicing
and not buying fuel they end up with more profit but obviously they must be cutting the smaller yards, also I know the local council switched to electric ride on mowers
and some robotic electric mowers some time ago.

I see Chinese electric ride on mowers for about $1000. now ,most people I see doing gardening jobs have battery powered tools.

Regulatory Policies: Some regions are implementing stricter emissions regulations to combat climate change, which could accelerate the shift to electric mowers.

Technological Advancements: Electric mower technology is continually improving, making them more efficient, affordable, and capable of handling larger areas of grass.

Consumer Preferences: Increasing awareness about environmental issues may lead to more consumers opting for electric options, particularly as battery technology improves and electric mowers become more widely available.

Landscaping and Golf Course Equipment: Certain professional landscaping services and golf courses are already making the switch to electric mowers, which may influence broader adoption.

While it's difficult to predict a specific timeline, a gradual transition over the next couple of decades seems likely. Some industry analysts suggest that by 2040, electric mowers may become the dominant choice for residential and commercial use, but petrol mowers will likely still be in use for specific applications and by certain demographics for years following that.

Cheers
Max.