OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Briggs & Stratton Oil Slinger govenor part number.

Hi all,


The old B&S motor on my old greenfields has shattered the governor. Apparently they are no longer made. I thought I would do a search on ebay and was wondering if anyone can tell me the part number? Engine number is 191702 0672-02 76102911.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Trivia, welcome to Outdoorking.

You probably know that your engine was manufactured on 29 October 1976, so it has been around a while and has breaker-points ignition. It has the reciprocating weight Synchrobalance, so it is very important to keep the oil clean and the level on the full mark. If the crankshaft eccentrics that operate the mechanism are worn or damaged, it is seldom practicable to repair the engine.

Here is the Illustrated Parts List:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6kswDVJ1DajI.pdf

You will find that the governor is Item 219 on Page 2, and on Page 8 you will find that the part number is 392718. This part is no longer manufactured, but you can buy a New Old Stock one from someone such as this:
http://oldpathsequipment.com/product/392718-slinger/

Alternatively you could pursue the part number that replaced it, which was 691980, which has also been discontinued but seems to be available:
http://lawnmowerpartsexpress.com/home/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=25&products_id=1041

Thanks for the info Grumpy. The motor had been running fine until the governor broke. It was just impossible to use it for mowing as manually adjusting the throttle was just hard work. I adjusted the points using a manual from this site about 6 months ago and it was starting first or second pull.

The cams and internal wear seems good for something as old as it is. It does use some oil, but compression is good.
Thanks very much for alternative parts sources and the helpful advise.

If it is using oil, it probably needs new piston rings. Usually you can test the rings by checking the compression, then putting a spoonful of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and repeating the test. If there is a substantial rise in compression, the rings are leaking.

Since you have the crankcase open, it seems a good time to replace the piston rings. Taking the engine out of the mower, and opening the crankcase, are the biggest parts of the job. At that point, replacing the rings is easy, as long as you are careful to do it the right way.

It is up to you of course - we are here to help if you decide to do it.

Is it likely that I would need to do any work on the bore if I replaced the rings? I would expect there to be a ridge at the top of the bore and would expect it would need a honing to help seat the rings. I have not had a lot of experience with B & S.

Thanks Grumpy.

Hi Trivia. What to expect, and what to do, about the bore depends on whether your engine is a "normal" B&S or an "I/C" version. The normal B&S generally has an aluminium bore, while the I/C (Industrial/Commercial) has a cast iron sleeve. B&S recommends that aluminium bores should not be de-glazed, but cast iron ones should be. However the first question, which can be answered without taking the piston out, is whether the bore is smooth, or has grooves in it parallel to the piston motion. If it has grooves, it has to be honed, aluminium or not, or the new rings will not seal effectively.

Usually Briggs engines wear out their rings in less time than it takes to produce much of a ridge at the top, but more importantly, mower rings have rather low tension compared with car rings, and there is no real difficulty caused by a small ridge if there is one. With a car engine there are two reasons to remove the ridge. The first is that you won't get the piston out without damaging the ring lands, until the ridge is removed. The rings just will not cross the ridge. The second reason is that if you put new rings in with the ridge still there, the un-worn rings will hit the ridge quite hard at the top of the stroke, and this will damage the piston's ring lands. Neither of these issues is likely to arise with the puny rings in a mower engine, even a Honda with its chromed rings and cast iron bore. (The engines you need to be most careful about are diesels, which have very high ring tensions and very rigid pistons. However there are many other things as well that require really careful work, on diesels.)

As a general rule, a cast iron bore that is being re-ringed should not be honed, but merely de-glazed. I usually do that with some fine emery cloth pressed lightly against the bore with my finger tips, and moved in a circular motion until the shine of the bore is reduced. Then, of course, you must carefully remove all abrasive and dust from the interior. Remember, you must wrap clean rag around the crankpin before you start, to protect it from abrasives and dust. Note that various people have various ways of de-glazing bores, and I'm not about to say that any of them are wrong, especially without seeing the results.

Thanks Grumpy. I will likely give it a go.

Trivia,

Silly question but is the engine making any noise suggesting that the governor has shattered?
Are you sure the gov leaver is not just loose?

Coincidently I've got a 252707 (bit bigger similar era) my slinger is not too good either. I went on a website ereplacment parts but it's an American site so I'm not confident on the price and postage costs so have postponed my purchase till I find an Australian supplier. Let me know how you go finding one.

Mick

Hi,
I have used ereplacement parts a number of times to source parts for projects and found them to be very reliable.

you find the part you want, add it to your cart, DON'T use proceed to check out.
There is an option below this for international checkout, use this.
It then calculates postage for Australia and gives you a number of postage options.
Select your postage option and pay with PayPal.

All very easy and as I said, I've used them on a number of times with no problems at all.

Murray

Hi Agro Mick,

The clue for me was the motor revs dying as soon as it hit a load. I went through the manual and made sure carby and governor were adjusted. No noise of something 'letting go' in the motor. I have already pulled it a part and it shattered without causing any damage to gears that I can see. I was having trouble with the ereplacement parts giving no option to send overseas. - But I see a hint in the below post so will give it a go and let you know. I was thinking of using a re-shipper otherwise.

Well, It looks like I am stuck with a re-shipper. There is a second hand one on ebay international and a new one at oldpathsequipment that would have to be reshipped. The costs work out roughly the same. Thanks everyone for their input.

I have had a similar issue in the past, on an old 11hp, the one I had would go to absolutely full throttle before I killed the ignition very quickly. I found the plastic oil slinger/govenor gear was smashed everywhere, the customer brought me a second hand unit and it was all put back together very quickly. I would imagine the plastic gear being 30+ years old fatigueing would be the main cause of the issue here.