OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Collectors Corner Identification of Particular Machines Victa Rotomo Specifications

Thanks Deejay

Hey guys, so what are the differences in the Model 1 & 2 badges? one has the same size numbers in the "18" and one has a shorter one in the "18" so which is which? and is that the only difference in the two? also the badge off a Model 12 I think it is, is that the same as either the 1&2 or is it a totally different fish? cheers guys.

Hi Jonesy,

From the research I have done, I believe that this is the Model 1 badge:

And this is the Model 2 badge:

I am sorry I cannot throw any light on the Model 12 badge, but I am sure that the Victa gurus will chime in here and correct me if I am wrong, and may sort the Model 12 issue.

Thanks Deejay, as this is the first responce I've had and so far confirms what I have been thinking, however I am not real knowledgable with the Rotomos.

The biggest different's is the back of the badges.The model with the smaller 1 was a solid back.So the alloy is thicker.The other is more hollowed out on the back and is the same as the Model 12.I think for memory they are not as thick.The model 1's were more like the fan mower badges.

This apears to be an original Model 2 badge and it appears to be painted red on the outside lip of the badge



this is a reproduction with no edge painted.



To get to the point, are the edges of the badge painted red???? thanks for any help.
PS, it seems like the Model 12 badge is the same as the Model 2.

Hey guys I dont know if this is going to be in the right area but it can be moved if needed, A bit of help also needed on the correct head for my Model 2 engine #94828 as from what I can tell from looking at others it has the wrong head on it as the spark plug comes out at a different angle, it also has cast into it a couple of threads like for a cowl to screw onto, maybee from a later model 125, did the 125 heads change from the Rotomos to the Model 4 & 5's? I will put up a couple of pics so you can see what I am talking about and the difference in the mateing surface where they meet the barrel, the model 5 type head is round and the head on my engine is square.







if my theary is correct, at what point did the change of heads come about?

cheers.

The blasted head (left) is correct. Model 2 early through to early sheerline are the same. (This includes model 3 4 auto and model 5s and any utility running the model 5 engine) Model 1 is also similar style just with thicker guage fins. The first head change was the later sheerline. Centre plug hole and the two 1/4 mount holes for the cowl. The head on the roto engine pictured is neither model 2 or sheerline. Head change date would have been 1961 approx. Im unsure what your second head is off, mid 60s models on maybee?
As for the badge the rear will tell you model accuracy. Models 2 , 3 through to 10 and 12 utilities should be the same. The red edge is irrelevant. The reproductions are heavier flat on the back and often with more casting bubbles on the rear. They are also pliable you should be able to bend them with moderate effort. I have seen 2 replica styles only. Without seeing the rear of the second its harx to tell if it is a replica.

Mal.

Nice collection you amassing jonsey:)

BLUE! havent heard from you for a while, Thanks for the info on both the heads and badge, when you say "the red edge is irrelevant" I dont get it? I am painting my badge and would like to make it the same as original, I have not seen that many original badges so I dont know, only going off photos and the one posted seems like it may have the edge painted, what have you or anyone else found to be correct from original badges?? and yes the collection is mounting all the time, with some good weather now I hope to get stuck into some painting.

Your welcome Jonesy,
My meaning was that the red edge wont always determine its being original. But yes the original badges were painted full red then faced off. So your first example is correct (painted edge). And my appologies, I stated the red badge started mid mk2 fan. This I think is incorrect. It was the first handfull of model 1 rotomos still retained the green badge. I got it wrong way around. I have 2 original examples both under 1000 serial.

OK mate, thanks, Green badge, I never knew anything about a green badge, but I'm sure this info is going to help others as well as myself, and yes the second badge is definatly a repro as I got the image from Ebay. By the way the new avitar is not as out there as the old.

Hi to All,
Would it be possible for someone to put up an image of the green Victa badge...it would be good for this archive.
Thanks fellas,

Lols Jonesy. And Will do a shot of the green badge shortly deejay:)

Thanks Mal, I don't think I have ever seen one in the flesh and must be quite a rare beastie....I often wonder what was the badge colour of the Victa 14" reel mower that Merv produced before the 'Billy-Cart'

Pleasure Deejay...yes probably rarer than the mower id think, as ive seen a few badgless fans. Oddly enough im sure the 14" reel was red, but id have to do some digging to try and confirm. I was looking at a few stored fan images I have and it seems my original comment regarding the red badge running on a portion of mk 2 fans may well be accurate as their appear quite a few original examples...my curiosity now is why I have seen (and own)a few examples of early model 1s with original green badges...again using up old stock? Another odd victa discrepancy.

Howdy fellas, thought I'd throw a few more newspaper ads I've come across. This one dates to the month of release of "plastic" wheel Rotomos, which we know to be around serial #75,000 (see previous posts).


February 10, 1957 - Sydney Morning Herald






The following ads are quite a significant find, I reckon. Firstlty, here is the final ad I could find for the fan mower in the SMH. The second ad shown is the earliest SMH ad for the Model 1. It pre-dates the appearance of the same ad in the Canberra Times by some months, and combined with the last ad for the fan, gives us a tidy three month window for the release date of the model 1 Rotomo (some time between March 6 and May 15, 1955):

March 6, 1955 - Sydney Morning Herald



May 15, 1955 - Sydney Morning Herald

have got a question on throttle, what Model or engine # change had the bakerlite? or Plastic? & steel throttle like the one below?



Cheers.

Are you sure that throttle lever is steel jonesy? It looks to me as if it could be diecast zinc.

Grumpy, you are most likely right, I should have said metal not steel, it's just not plastic like on my M2, I also noticed the same one in post #49161 of Unkie's on a M5 series 3?

You can tell whether parts are zinc (or if they are not plated, perhaps aluminium) in various ways, but usually I just look to see whether it is a die-casting. Iron and steel are not suited to die casting because of their high melting temperature, though they can be sand cast. Zinc is even easier to die cast than aluminium, and is stronger. Incidentally, for some reason Americans like to call zinc "pot metal".

Of course steel or iron, unless it is an austenitic variety of stainless, is magnetic and few other metals are, so you can usually detect steel and iron with a magnet.

Something we need to research better for accuracy I think.

This is all the info I have from memory,see what you think,we can make adjustments as we gather more concise info:)

Mk 1 and 2 fan,Std Villiers throttle control.

Model 1 and very early model 2,chrome over copper plated cast alloy.

Model 2 full plastic (Black)

Note I am unsure whether the use of a bi material(as per your diagram) throttle control was Victa issue or a repair option for plastic assy due to base failure? Although I have seen many of your type around.

There is evidence of a green(same green as the groove cover) throttle control used on early model 2 rotos but ive yet to come across a real sample.

So black plastic for rotomo 2 and into model 2a. Then the full chrome alloy with the red Victa embossed on the cover which im certain saw out the model 2a.

Model 4 and 5 control same as 2a with the exclusion of the red embossed victa logo.
Fan,Model 1,model 2 are confirmed accurate,just need to see when(IF) your example was Victa issued and also the correct fittment for the red embossed full metal version.

Please feel free to correct any discrepencies,as ive not fully researched throttle controls,only going of what type ive seen on the majority of corresponding models.
Also my appologies for lack of images lately,my printer /scanner is cactus my comp is on its last legs and i cant find the cable for my phone sighs*.

sorry its a little late...The Green Victa badge as fitted to the first Rotomos "The billy cart" Mk 1 Fan and an undetermied amount of Mk 2 fans. This badge has also been seen and confirmed accurate to very early model 1 Rotomos.

The intersection of green to red appears to have been somewhere in the latter period of the Mk 2 fan run with both Mk 2 fan and early Rotomo model 1 recieving either.

This example is one of 3 unrestored model 1s I have in my collection,it is original and untouched. Of the other 2 one has the green badge the other the red.

Both green badge models are below the 1000 serial.

Correct screws and nuts for the Rotomo displayed are identical to the ones fitted in the images and the others I have in my collection.

This is Rotomo 2 serial 96,000 so one of the last model 2's made.

The image isnt the best but it shows the same screws fitted to the earlier models,showing that at this point rivets were still not being used.

This was on display at fairfield machinery museum...yeah I bought it lols.
Its an original Rotomo 2 serial 70,000+ and was donated by the original owners estate.

This is an example of enhancing an original mower without full restoration so as to keep its original patina and history.

This was fully stripped,everything cleaned and repaired and missing parts replaced. Engine was stripped,honed SH piston and new rings+ new full gasket kit+ rebuilt electrics+ HT,new throttle cable and new brass wheel bushes. Enhanced all the parts to bring out the remaing colour,then fully coated the steel with penetrol to bring out lustre and stop further rust.

Note also the cigar fuel tap. While I know they were first introduced on the later Rotomo 2 Id not seen one on a tin wheel version. First original fittment of the cigar? or just replaced over time? hmmmm.

Anyways this is my prefered method for mowers that do not require full restoration.




Required parts, Badge choke assy,correct carb. sorry bout the front tyres lols was probably waiting for some when i took the pics,but it has its booties" on now








Next ill post what I do to a complete relic thats way past this condition. oh and another of my favourite unusual Rotomo relics lols.

One of my favourite Rotomo Relics. This Is Rotomo 2 Serial 30,000+ its not my earliest model 2 but this one highlights the correct use of left over model 1 parts even up until this serial and with examples beyond.
This is a correct model 2 as sold. Model 2 tin wheel chassis running model 1 throttle control(not fitted as I stole it for another model 1 lols) engine,barrel and brass nut carby as per model 1. The combinations varied model 2 engine model 1 barrel and model 1 head or model 1 brass nut carby model 1 barrel model 2 head and so on. these transitional models are accurate and sold this way to use up existing stock. Model 1 engine parts only were fitted but always the correct model 2 chassis was used. Note this was random or sporadic as and not the norm for all early Rotomo 2 Models.

Restored as found,busted choke assy no snorkel no front tyre,pretty wrecked head and field modified villiers carby mesh filter and hose as fitted by previous owner.

Shes a real beast and one of my best runners and was also one of the worst condition Rotos id seen prior to resto,just a pile of rust and siezed parts covered in and inch of mud. But one of my favs as its the only transitional model I own....I like to think of it as Rotomo Model 1 1/2 lols.

Can someone check to see what spark plug they are using I have recently acquired a Model two and the plug is a modern ND model which is badly fouled. I'm assuming it's an incorrect alternate.
Cheers!

G'day fish. Victa adopted the Bosch plug (175/T2) in March 1957, which would be around serial #75-80,000. The Champion N21 (I think) was adopted around the intro of the Special. I don't recall what they used before the Bosch, sorry. The Champion N21 is the go to plug these days.

Great posts also Blue! I love your old survivor, it oozes character. One of my model 2s (#19,431) has a few of the transitional features - Model 1 barrel, pulley and badge with the wide set axles on the base. Do you reckon it started life with a brass nut carby?

Unkieeee!

yeah id love to see your 19,000...full restore or dressing up to keep original?

19,000 should have those features thats for sure. As for the brass nut carby its anyones guess.

I do know it was rare to recieve all of the model 1 parts on one mower. from most of the examples ive seen its been a few bits here and a few there,but things get changed over time. The head and BN carb are most likely to be the least seen as they failed easily,so may have been changed.

Since it has all you say then the odds are good...is the head a model 2 or 1?

Your choice whether to add or not but personally id leave it how you found it. The heads are near impossible to find and save the brass nut carb for a true model 1,unless you have surplus. The brass nut/carb combo are getting quite expensive and hard to buy as a set. Either way it will still be a fantastic part of your collection as the transitional models are getting quite rare.

then again you could solve this dilema easily...by selling it to me! lmao.... Might place an add me thinks as i am still yet to aquire a model 2 Roto under the 10,000..as my aim is to own at least one of every 10,000 serial. just need that and a 20,000,but another 19,000 wont go astray...lmao.

No plans to restore her yet mate. I'm pretty sure it's running a model two head, but I've never seen the two variants side by side so I might be wrong lol.

The chassis is in pretty good shape, so she might be worth keeping original, but does need a set of tin wheels and the correct choke. I'm running out of space and time so it will probably stay that way for a bit - unless I trade it for some other bits I'm after