OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers My Victa Rotomos - Some Thoughts

Well I thought I better Start another thread as "my new victa 18's" is getting a bit messy and off track, I have just recently got my first Romoto's (frames any way) and thought I would put up some pics and any progress I have made with them.

First up is a fairly good Model 1-2 base and handles with tank (wrong engine) but is a start.

Next is a Model 3 Partially.

This one is going to be the first one done up as it is the best condition, Model 1-2 that will be fitted with a spare/seperate engine I bought,
engine #94828 over 1.








It also came with a good tank that I have started to restore but will be changing the colour from Brunswick green as pictured to a deep Brunswick green.










Also started cleaning up my Model 12 badge to go on it.





the engine that will be going on it.


Has the wrong head but have got others to fit when I get to doing it up, I have also started on painting all the axel mount parts etc. well thats all for now

Hi jonesy, and thanks for starting a new thread on these beauties...it will make for a good restoration archive as you go along, hopefully will plenty of pics.
Looking forward to seeing your progress mate...

Well I am stoked to get this Model 2, I have done the deal and will be going to get it either tonight or in the morning, looks to be totaly original as you will see in the photos, just missing the front badge, these are the photos I have been sent by the bloke who found it, and I will put some more up when I get my grovelly little mitts on it

Well you know when what you expect even turns out better than what you thought it would? well it happened to me when I picked up my early Automatic and now with this Romoto 2, everything is there, and in good condition and works, I am told it does not have spark but I will check it out tomorrow it does have real good compression, seeing how I've just driven 4 1/2hours round trip to get this I cant be bothered ATM, check out the pics, I think it is in too good original condition to fully restore so I think I will just clean up and see what happens.







the top hat pully and flywheel cover are near perfect.





the sad faced choke even still has the mesh in it, and the clamp does not even seem to have ever been bent out of shape.







the fuel tank is spotless inside, the tap seems good and the cap still has the cork under.








more to come

The fuel tank still has the original rubber mounts on each end.





Throttle in good condition with original cable.







Good exhaust and you dont buy N21 sparkplugs that look like that any more.






The wheels and axles are good with next to no rust.







well that should give you all a fair idea of the condition of it now to see if I can put up a poll on weather to keep it as original or restore??? see how I go?

restore or leave original single choice

leave original (58%, 7 Votes)

Fully restore (42%, 5 Votes)

Total Votes: 12 Voting on this poll ends: 0 seconds ago

What a ripper Jonesy! fantastic condition and well worth keeping original I'd reckon. If it were mine, I'd just strip the motor down and get it cleaned up and working perfectly, get some rust converter on the deck, get a badge and some new circlips on those wheels and leave the rest be. The only thing I think may be in doubt would be the pulley, as it's a model one pulley - but I might be wrong.

My model 2, which I've almost finished restoring, is number 51015, so just a few hundred off of yours and was probably made in the same week lol! I'll be using your example as a reference to finish mine off, for sure. Mine was a wreck when I got it, and I spent a heap on it getting it up to scratch. I had the base blasted - a bunch of cracks welded and the whole deck leveled out as it had been buckled at some point. I was missing the badge, snorkle, carby and throttle and it also had a model one barrel on it, which I changed to the correct model 2 type. The wheels were full of holes, and I must a spent a week alone just getting those bogged up and painted. The rubber was all good, including the tank rubbers, which are rare as anything. The only thing I'm short now is a smiley face choke (infact I need three of those!)and the stickers, which Rustic Spares do a nice job of.

My electrics were in a state, so I've just dropped the startor plate into my local mower shop to get fully tested, but I'm expecting the condenser or coil (or both) to be shot. That's the worst thing about collecting Rotomos - It seems the electrics are often buggered, and you can't find replacements easy, from what I've seen. I've heard you can replace the condenser with an aftermarket example with a few tweaks, but as for the coil, you pretty much need to wreck a mower to find one lol.

As soon as I get mine done I'll post some pics. Also If you want to trade your model 1 pulley for a model 2 pulley, flick me a pm

Been hiding Unki? good to hear from you, I thought the pully was correct as this is a quote from Blue from another thread

"Top hat (unsure as I cant see the Images,if the chamfer on the top edge is barely visible its a model 1,if its prominent,then model 2."

So I figured the one on the left was the Model 2 and the right (broken, bugger) Model 1.




I only know what I have read and not questioning you as you have had a lot more to do with these than me,but so has Blue. so

Also, regarding your question about the difference between model 1 and model 2 rotomo bases, the easiest way to spot the difference is to measure the gap between the two front wheel struts. model 1 bases have a inner gap of 290mm between the front wheel struts, whilst the model 2 gap is narrower at 280mm.

The early model 1 axles also had wheel retaining split pin holes rather than circlip groves,which is another give away

Ah thanks for that info, that meens I have 3 Model 2 bases now.

Ahhh true! sorry about that, I had them mixed up. In that case, it looks like you've got a 100% correct mower - lucky bugger! Any sign of paint on the back axle?

Unkiiieee! Lols.
Super nice score jonesy! This example is what I always aim for in my collection, an unrestored original. As unkie says this id keep as is. Strip clean and rebuild the engine, but keeping its original patina. I use penetrol in restorations as it enhances the original paint and seals the bae metal. I tend to only fully restore wrecks like your first examples (red and white). But thats just me. Unkies spot on with measurements for base types I have even seen some model 2/3 bases at 295 300mm. Rear axle for model 1 is also different length and has of course no circlip recess just holes for split pin. Front axles halves are also straight.the model 2 inner is bent s style.
Your left ess pulley is definately a model 2, the right (broken one) is really rough and looks to have less of an edge but its kinda irelavent now anyway a beautiful original mid run model 2, they dont come like this often. Now I just gotta find the badge post to put up my green model 1 example.lols. actually when I get time ill post my last original in this thread youll be really surprised when they line up as it is near exact in condition mine is 53, 000 from memory.

Hi to Mal and Jonesy,
I have a model 2058 ATCO, (20" 1958) that was gifted to me in original condition from the son of the original owner, complete with the receipt .....I contacted the Old Lawn Mower Club in England to get their ideas I whether I should restore it or leave in original condition and 'conserve' it.

I asked what product they use for this purpose and they replied 'Waxoyl'....Someone has said it was also recommended by the Hall & Duck Trust, who apparently use it on their machines.
I don't know if it is available in Australia...but I will do some research...someone however from ODK may know, and post here.

Jonesy, on an awesome score...(you lucky bugger!)

Unki, no paint left on the rear axel, well got the old girl fired up after putting a new coil in it. (question for Blue on that later) cleaned out the carby and found this,



Dont know what happened with that???
someone must have also screwed the screw that guides the slide into the side of the slide as the end was missing (not protruding through the carby body) and the side of the slide groove was sort of squashed at the side, but filed it straight with a small flat file and replaced the screw and float bowl and good as new,
The fuel line was hard and had a split in it so had to put a new piece on, the video was of the first attempt to start it so it must have been the old leather starter I used get her going that helped her kick into gear

Video of first start Here.

Now that question for Blue or anyone else that knows about the Rotomo coils, when I changed the coil out, the coil I have in there now looks identical to the one I took out however the two locating pins that fit into the coil and locates into the timing plate were slightly out, coil mounting screw holes lined up properly and one pin on one end was OK but could not get the other lined up properly, probably a good mm or so different spacing to the old coil, has anyone else come across this also???

love the video Jonesy! What a great mower you've got there. I reckon it would probably be your best score yet. Regarding the float bowl image, are you refering to notch in the lip of the bowl? I've got two or three that match that exactly and just assumed it was designed as an overflow groove. My circlip carby doesn't have a notch in the bowl, but one ore two later style carbys I have do.

Can't help on the coil question, but maybe the coil size changed a little over the life of of the model 2 - just a guess.

Two things I noticed about your roto - the back wheel/s is on the wrong way around and the top port cover should have a brass dome nut - check the bottom port cover as it might have been put on the bottom one instead. Other than that, you've got a real museum quality piece there!

You know Unkie I thought along the same lines with the groove in the float bowl at first as it looked too neat, it could still possibly be that, but when I got thinking about it before I put it back on was it is lower than the tell tale hole for the tickler and thought it was just another place for crud to get in and fuel to spill out while you are throwing it around in the scrubbery, but if you have the same fish well who knows? yes something changed with the coils or at least the locating pins? yes I noticed the wheel on the wrong way I just checked the nut and yes it has a chromed brass nut underneath on the port so thank you for picking that up and I will rectify it when cleaning it down, I dont think I will need to do anything as far as rebuilding the engine as it runs too well to be worn, and when I reasemble after cleaning I will be able to time it better before putting the head back on, it was just a guess of 3mm BTDC by shinning thw torch down the spark plug hole and using a Tallyhoe paper in the points, an old trick from the harley shovel heads and XT/TT yammy 500 days a hacksaw blade to set the points gap (18 thou) and a Tallyhoe paper for timing If not the best score, definatly the second best (I am a bit partial to my Auto)

Just a little more info on how and to what extent you clean up Blue, like the base for example, I would emagine just washing and let dry then apply the Penetrol, or do you try and clean off rust as well? I would think if trying to clean off rust you would also remove some original paint that I would be wanting to preserve as much as possible. cheers and yes put up some pics of your one.

Absolutely awesome, I want one

It looks so simple and ticks over like a clock, when did engines get so complicated?

Congrats mate