OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Scotty 45 service

I'm new to the site and loving it. Looking at the site I decided it's time to give my mower the love and attention she deserves.
I will be getting the blades sharpened over the winter months. When the reel is replaced, do the bearings need to be greased/oiled at time of re-install? This obviously depends on whether they are in good shape.
Also, how often should they be greased/oiled?
Finally, What maintenance is required for the bearings on the main roller?
Thanks a lot,
Mark

Hi Mark, welcome to Outdoorking.

Our reel mower guru, Deejay, is currently away in Queensland celebrating his father's birthday, so he isn't able to log in here every day, though he does so as often as he can. He has an SB45 himself, and it is his pride and joy, so he is the person to answer your questions. If you can hold off for at most a few days, he will get back to you.

Happy to wait,
I've seen Deejay's videos and he obvioulsy does love his 45.

Hi,
Another question if I may. Are you able to tell me the measurement of the reel blades to determine if there is enough 'meat' on the reel or whether it should be replaced? I really appreciate your assistance and I am learning a great deal at this great site.
All the best, Mark.

Mark, the meat on the reel is the distance, radially, from the outside edges (cutting edges) of the reel blades, to the radial spacers they are mounted on. When the blades have been ground down to those spacers, the reel cannot be sharpened again. It is possible to weld new blades on, or to buy a new reel, but either of these usually costs more than a replacement SB45 that still has lots of meat on the original reel. Probably at least half of the SB45s that feature in Outdoorking threads have never been resharpened and have as much meat now as they did when they were new. We have never had a measurement reported here of the amount of meat on a new reel, but I estimate it would be close to 10 mm.

One of the things Deejay will inevitably ask you to do, is to post pictures of your mower, including views of the reel, and of the chain sprockets in the chaincase on the left side of the mower. He will want to see the sprockets photographed from a point in line with their axes, so that the tooth form can be seen clearly. The next most expensive thing to do to resuscitate an old SB45, after replacing the reel, is replacing the sprockets and chains.

The bearings on my Diplomat are sealed and maintenance free, guess the 45 is the same, if in doubt replace as they are only about $10 each
Main roller bearings just spin at walking pace so probably are okay but others that spin at engine speed will obviously take more strain.
I replaced all of mine and the 3 that were on the blades and engine shaft were shot to bits.
Once replaced the fuel consumption halved, so it's money well spent if in doubt

Thanks Kempe.

Hi markmac, and a warm welcome to the forum. Its always nice to welcome another Scott Bonnar Model 45 owner on board.

Kempe is quite correct, the reel bearings are now the sealed type and are maintenance free.
The one thing to remember here is that the engine shaft bearing (that's the one behind the small primary chain sprocket) is the self-aligning type and must be replaced by the same type.

As grumpy has kindly replied, I'd like you please to post some pics of the cylinder reel, bedknife (bottom blade, especially the front vertical edge and the chains and sprockets from a point in line with their axes, so that the tooth form can be seen clearly.

Thanks Deejay,
I'll post some pics in the very near future.

Hi,
I have added some photo's which I hope will help you to give me some tips as to the next step I should take.
I'd love to know something of the history of my SB but there is no identification plate to refer to.
I'd like to get the reel and bed knife sharpened but I'd appreciate your advice about the life left in the old girl. The mower is as I bought it from Sydney Roller Mower Centre in about 2005.












Many thanks to you all! I really love your site.
All the best,
Mark.

Hi Mark, thanks for the heads up on your post, I must have missed your reply, I am sorry.

Mate, some info on your machine....looking at the solid engine deck, she is an early machine (unless the deck has been replaced at some stage) if it is a Series 1...I would date it from 1968 - 1973 roughly...we can get a good guess at its age if you post the complete string of numbers on the air-cowling of the Briggs engine.

She has a couple of later model features...the black plastic end caps on the front roller and the later model logo on the handle bar cover and also the black knobs on the grass deflector adjusters....This is strange unless she is a 'bitsa'. Maybe someone started a restoration earlier and bought all the Series 2 bits for her....I'm leaning towards the engine deck being replaced because the twin-rail Series 2 was prone to cracking. She may be a Series 2 machine.

The cylinder reel has heaps of life left...the bottom blade less so...may need to be replaced in the future.
The sprockets are all serviceable, however you will need to replace the double cutter sprocket and the small engine primary sprocket as they are both nearing the end of their service life. At this time, you will need also to replace the primary chain for these sprockets, as it will have stretched.

Finally, a re-spray of the chassis including the catcher...(engine is fine)....new engine and chassis decals and stickers...she will come up a treat!!
There you have it! Looking forward to your posting the numbers on the Briggs cowling....

Thanks Deejay,
I value your comments and will heed your advice.
Numbers on engine cowling are as follows; 6202 0635-1 7508270.
Look forward to your reply,
Cheers,
Mark.

Hi Mark, your machine is later than I thought; your engine was manufactured on the 27th August 1975 in the US., was shipped to Australia and was placed on the chassis probably later that year or early 1976.

My thoughts are now that she is a Series 2 machine that has had the engine deck replaced (that might be the reason that the ID plate is missing) but that is a good thing, because as I have explained the twin rail system is prone to cracking.

She is a beauty, and will come up a treat with some TLC!

Thanks Deejay,
I notice that the reel adjusters are quite a way down. Is this what leads you to suggest replacing the bottom blade?
Regards,
Mark.

Hi Mark, no, not necessarily, mainly the thickness of the bed knife at its front edge....but at the moment it looks fine.

Thanks a lot Deejay,
I will replace the bed knife when I get the reel sharpened in winter.
I appreciate your advice.
Regards,
Mark.

Thanks Mark, I will close this thread. If any member has anything to add, just PM a moderator.