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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385 Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
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Tiger, Until you follow the complete directions that we supplied to you will not get the correct result. The washer is a special one which is concave which is like a spring washer but better. You can see the washer HERE. 
Regards, ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/members/mower-monsterw.jpg) Bruce Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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The original owner has taken that washer off so I don't have it, I can see from your website that it's a special washer. The Gregory's manual on Victa mowers book just shows a round washer. Anyway being Boxing day it will be hard to source the washer, is the one on the Victa Corsair Powertorque the same? If so, I'll substitute that one.
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Joe Carroll
Unregistered
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The one on the other victa will be the same 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Changed the washer and guess what - it fired up!!! It only fired up after I stuck some petrol in the spark plug hole. It still needs work, the carby is gummed up but I'll give it a clean. The lead attached to the spark plug is frayed and the previous owner had insulation tape around it, is this a common item and what exactly is it called, I couldn't find it in the manual? The muffler is not on securely, there was a perished washer between the muffler and the exhaust hole, is the washer essential? The petrol tank has old stale petrol in it, what is the best way to get this clean. Finally a big thank you to Bruce(you were right  ), Joe, Grumpy, Mark and others for helping me with this, I had written this mower off and would have if it wasn't for your encouragement. Who would have thought that the timing was so sensitive on these machines that they would not operate without the blade holder on securely? Anyway you live and learn.
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Joe Carroll
Unregistered
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These engines are better than the powertorque once fixed up, I have plenty of them around here if you need a new ignition coil (I am sure the lead is fixed to the coil, but still have my christmas cheer on to remember fully) I can scrap one from an old engine for you. Matter of fact I have just about any part that isnt available new from the online store. Just clean out behind the primer cap, replace the O ring (around $1) be careful not to lose the needle from the primer cap, flush the fuel tank with fresh 2 stroke and it will ook after you. Going by the compression you have described (the starter jerking) the engine is in great condition and will last for some time yet. The flywheel is too light without the blade plate, its more of a cooling fan than anything  it took me a long time to learn this. For future reference, the washer was originally round on older victas, victa changed to square washers at a later date but they all do the same job, just be weary of the new victa 4 stroke washers as they are different. I hope you had a merrry christmas and bring on the new year 
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385 Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
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Changed the washer and guess what - it fired up!!! It only fired up after I stuck some petrol in the spark plug hole. It still needs work, the carby is gummed up but I'll give it a clean. The lead attached to the spark plug is frayed and the previous owner had insulation tape around it, is this a common item and what exactly is it called, I couldn't find it in the manual? The muffler is not on securely, there was a perished washer between the muffler and the exhaust hole, is the washer essential? The petrol tank has old stale petrol in it, what is the best way to get this clean. Finally a big thank you to Bruce(you were right  ), Joe, Grumpy, Mark and others for helping me with this, I had written this mower off and would have if it wasn't for your encouragement. Who would have thought that the timing was so sensitive on these machines that they would not operate without the blade holder on securely? Anyway you live and learn. All you need to do is follow the step by step procedures that the moderators and my self give and you should be up and running in no time. Also try to be specific in your description and as well pictures really help the moderators with giving advice to your issues. 1. Rather than use insulation tape you could use victa fuel line which will slide over the cable (I have done this when joining cables a lot in the past) 2. As Joe has said replace the 'O' ring on the carby cover and when replacing the cover make sure that the line (on white cover) is horizontal to the carby body otherwise the fuel mix will be out. 3. Tank you can flush with some fresh petrol but as a suggestion I would replace the fuel tap as well and check the pin hole in the cap is clean. 4. Muffler washer is required otherwise the people living next door will not be happy when you cut the lawn. All going well you should be up and running soon. 
Regards, ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/members/mower-monsterw.jpg) Bruce Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Thanks Joe and happy christmas to you also. May take you up on your offer of the lead but I'll see how I go. Thanks again for all your help.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Thanks Bruce, will follow all your steps, I didn't think that the mower was all that loud without the muffler washer but then I was so excited that the mower fired up that I probably didn't notice.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Update on this, the mower runs but does not stop when you turn the petrol tap off. I suspect that I need to change the petrol tap as advised previously but does it just screw off from the petrol tank, it's plastic and I didn't want to ruin the tank unnecessarily?
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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hey tiger, the fuel tap does unscrew from the tank, also its best to use the kill switch set up to stop your engine as turning off the fuel makes it lean out and can cause premature wear to the bore piston and rings. here are some photos of the kill switch set up , just make sure your engine is set to run to assemble or the probe wont go in. cheers, mitch ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2013/01/full-5911-9333-photo_0157.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2013/01/full-5911-9334-photo_0154.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2013/01/full-5911-9335-photo_0156.jpg)
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Thanks Mitch. I'm sure I was told to turn the petrol tap off and let it stop running before using the kill switch, this helps to ensure that there's no petrol that can go off in the carby but now I'm not so sure.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Briggs and Stratton recommends that its engines are run until they stop from lack of fuel, before storage (e.g. during winter). Craftsman and Ryobi recommend that engines have the fuel "removed" from the carburetor before storage. I haven't checked any other owner manuals, except Honda which provides a drain plug in the carburetor float bowl and recommends that fuel always be drained before storage.
I have always made a point of running most 2 strokes until their carburetors are empty, because otherwise the fuel dries up during storage, leaving the oil behind, and the oil is likely to temporarily block the main jet and make starting difficult. That practice was widely recommended back in the days when I used 2 strokes. Of course you make sure to do this at light throttle with no load on the engine, to ensure that high temperatures do not develop for a few seconds as the mixture leans out. I personally would not run a chainsaw or motorcycle engine dry in that way, because those are very high performance engines, which could be adversely affected by lean mixture.
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Joe Carroll
Unregistered
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Even after running a victa dry at full speed if the crankcase is opened there is still plenty of oil and fuel in there, they need a bit more to keep running. Over the years I have never seen one damaged from simply turning the tap off when finished mowing.
The fuel tap simply screws in and out but only tighten the new tap until it seats, you dont want to strip the plastic thread.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Changed the fuel tap and gave the carby a clean, now the petrol tank tap works but the start/kill lever doesn't turn the mower off, it revs up a bit at the highest setting but for a large part of its movement the revs don't change.I assume that something must have slipped and that the screws need to be re-tightened. Is there anything else I can do?
Thanks Grumpy for your input into the discussion on how to turn the mower off, I have heard the argument you've advanced before and always done this way.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
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hey guys, the fuel thing is a fairly disputable topic , both sides are fair , i normally run a victa dry if its going to be stored for a long period but not when in use regularly. either way a kill switch is best to be a working one in the event of needing the engine to stop in a hurry , tiger if the switch isnt working the large pin may not be inserted enough into the carb or the rubber plug fowling the pins from touching this can be a sign that the rubber grommet has gone hard. cheers all 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612 Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
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Hi there tomo, the pin is inserted enough, will check the rubber grommet.
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