OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Scott Bonnar Model 45 - Restoration - Jamskin2

I have today started my Scott Bonnar Model 45 Restoration and have attached some photos of how it looks at present.

Hi again Jamskin, looks like a good project from the start...all complete mate. We are here to help as you go along, don't forget to take pics; it will make a good archive...
BTW, l like the Beemer as well mate!

Cheers Deejay
Bmr is My other pride and Joy.
I am going to photograph each part and each step of reassembly.

Has anybody been down the road of galvanising their Cylinder Mower Chassis and Chain case before painting.
It seems apparent from stripping down my mower ready for restoration that they get very rusty. It doesnt even look like it was primed originally.
I thought by having it all galvanised before painting it would preserve and be more hard wearing.
Interested in anyone's thoughts on this.

Hi Jason, to be honest, I have never thought about it.
I believe you are correct about the primer though. In the latter period of Scott Bonnar, prior to the merge into Rover-Scott Bonnar, (1968-1980) they were using a hammertone finish which hides a multitude of sins. To save money probably (and time of course), to my knowledge they didn't use any primer. To be fair though, most other manufacturers didn't use it either.

As for galvanising, I think this would be prohibitively expensive for most people and comes with its inherent set of problems. It would have to cure for some considerable time prior to painting; a gal primer would then have to be applied followed by a good quality zinc chromate primer then finally top-coated with what ever finish one would choose.
This method would result in a rust free Scotty, but would not reflect in dollars if ever you wished to sell the machine in future.
There are easier methods to achieve the same result.

Thanks Deejay.
I have just had advice from the Chrome plating place where I took my handlebars that also the big down side of galvanizing is that it mucks up all the threads etc and you have to re tap and rework everything.
I think its overkill by the sounds of it.
Just want to make sure anything I do is quality and long lasting.


Can I please ask Did you powder coat your cylinder before grinding it or after?

Jason

Hi Jason, I had it powder-coated before grinding.
This is how I had it done:
I masked off the bearing surface end (on the left, looking from the front of the reel) and then masked the bearing surface and threaded section on the cutter sprocket end with 1/2" masking tape, took it to the sandblasters and had it blasted...(it came up a treat) then straight to the powder-coater's; as surface rust will commence just with moisture in the air.

Once powder-coated, off to the engineer for spin-grind complete with the soleplate (with the bottom knife-blade attached) so it could have the top and front edge surface ground as well. You always take both reel and soleplate to the engineer and their done as a pair.
Best of luck with it and don't forget, pics please

No probs Deejay
Thank you I will be going down the powder coating route as well.
I took handle bars, Height adjustment handle and assoc pieces, also the engine disengage handle and assoc pieces to the chrome plating place today as I'm going to have them all chromed. I know they weren't all chrome plated originally. But I think it will look smick with the colour scheme.
I have chosen a hammerite colour which is a hammer finish deep green
Not sure if anybody has used this colour before would look good with the delicious red I think.
Jason

Hi Jason, I agree mate, this Scotty of yours will look a ripper when completed!! Can't wait to see it.
I really like the Hammerite colour you've chosen...should look schmick!

Thanks Deejay
Will send photos of progress.

It occurred to me when taking front roller off my mower that there was a fair bit of play in the front roller. ie with plastic end caps on roller there are no bearings and the roller sits very loose on the axle.
One question I have and not to sound stupid but doesnt this effect the quality of cut if its so loose?

Also I know there is a stainless steel front roller for SB45 which has bearings in either end that keep everything nice and tight and smooth rolling. Has anybody gone down this path? Are there fors and against s? the stainless one with bearings looks pretty good.

Hi Jason, I would be very interested to see a pic of the stainless steel roller with bearing end caps; are they made locally? I have not seen one for sale before.

My Scotty is 20+ years old and still has the plastic end caps, but what I have done, is to drill an 1/8" hole diagonally through the centre part of the cap to facilitate oiling of the roller shaft and the load bearing part (and wearing) portion of the cap and shaft, with an oil can.

Obviously, a S/S roller with dedicated roller bearings would be the ticket, but also considerable expense I would imagine.
If the machine was for use on a croquet court, golf green or bowling green because of the tolerances required it would be mandatory, but for general domestic use, I find the original set-up quite satisfactory, providing routine maintenance is carried out.

Hi Dee Jay heres a picture of it. I cant help but think that having a true front roller has got to effect the end quality of the cut.
Would love anyones thoughts on the attached. As the front roller I had was so sloppy.

Hi Jason, and thanks for the pic....it is an excellent looking piece of kit...I will send you a PM for some details...please check for a flashing envelope in the top toolbar next to 'My Stuff'.

You are quite correct in your assumptions re a sloppy front roller and the quality of cut...it just depends on the amount of wear present; if the end caps have been replaced and the shaft is not worn to excess, a little play is not so important....however, if all is badly worn and falling apart, the quality of cut will suffer as you say.

A new front roller shaft from the OutdoorKing Online Store is $84.07 and a replacement set of end caps $20.86...Total $104.93 plus freight.....I wonder how that will compare with the stainless steel version.
Thanks again for posting the pic for us, Jason,

Thought I'd post some snap shots of my Model 45 restore.
To Date been to Sandblasters, powder coaters and Chrome platers.
I will post separate

posts for each section.
Sole Plate Sandblasted and powder coated in Flame Red as well new bed knife pre fitting and grinding to new cylinder

New Front Roller Assembly Model 45 - Stainless Steel Front Roller with Bearings. Roller Frame Sand Blasted and pwder coated in Satin Black. All New Axle, washers and nut

Sandblasted Model 45 Chassis and Primed in heavy duty Primer ready for spraying Hammer Finish Green

Rear Rollers Sandblasted and Primed in Heavy Duty Primer ready for sparaying Photo 1

Rear Rollers before Spraying Photo 2

Handle Bar Face Plate Prior To Painting Hammer Finish Green