OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Wont Stop

Got this Victa two stroke last week. My intention is to keep it for the odd time I need a rotary mower or if someone wants to borrow one.

The problem with it was the carby, the white plate with the primer bulb was cracked and the needle was damaged. So I swapped all the good parts off my old Victa Tilta Cut engine onto this one. Including Carby cover and gasket, fuel line, fuel tank and covers, plus throttle control assy. Plus some 2nd hand wheels.

The mower starts first pull and runs fine, but when you pust the lever into stop postion it dont stop. Looking at the carby the white cam appears to be pushing sideways on the brass pin in the stop position. Also where the throttle cable joins onto the carby it is only in the first hole. SHould it go onto the 2nd hole? (The outer spring that is)

Cheers

Problem solved, after a coffee and a few Tim Tams

Was the rubber grommet on the brown wire. Had a split in it

Lucky find for me, I just stripped and cleaned all the carby parts on my GF's mower, looks very much like yours Jarrad.

Put it all back together and it runs again, woo hoo. So I'm very chuffed and the GF is mightily impressed, untill I tried to stop it and it didn't. shut off the fuel and it ran to a stop.

So when I was putting the two wires back into the the rubbers in the side of the carby I'm not sure I got it quite right.

Any advice on how the cut out works and where the wires/probes should be?

Brown one in the centre. On the power torques this pin is longer and has a step in it. THis wire is the one thats earthed to the block.
Other wire is the cross pin.
It doesnt matter, i think the later power torques with the in built module had a grey wire and the old full cranks had two black wires. One wire is earth the other is ignition, polarity is not an issue.


Fist thing to check is the pin rubber and the rubber boot.

Cable adjustment can play a part.
Just remember What you give to one you take from the other.
Phillips head screw on the throttle housing, if you loosen it, push the lever down a bit to slide the screw down the slot and then do the screw up. Then try pulling up and see if the extra bit of movement will make the stop pins work. That can fix it, but only if the issue is to do with the throttle movement not being enough in that direction.

The plastic piece that the screw goes into is also a nut of sorts, after disassembling the throttle housing (until you get the hang of it this will do your head in), it will wind up and down the spiral outer of the throttle cable. This can be adjusted and often needs to be if the rotator in the carb is not going all the way around to full open.
If the relationship between the length of the inner and outer cable is not right. Too much poking out one end, and not enough out the other. The arc of movement at the lever is set, so is the movement at the carb. The cable needs to match.

To check this you pop the back cover off the carb and just peel the diaphragm back a bit, move the lever to full throttle and check that the rotator goes all the way around to touch the housing. I would suggest you do this after adjusting the cable via the screw.
If it does not reach the outer cable needs to be moved up toward the throttle lever, which is turning the plastic nut down toward the carb.


Sometimes what can happen is the plastic 'nut' at the throttle housing strips out. Ususally caused by a stiff cable. Only thing is to replace the cable.

Cheers Bob, I did spot the cable positin and thought it was solely an issue with this until I read Jarrods post.

I'm pretty sure now, that it's at the electrical end as I didn't move the cable nut thingy.

So I think I understand, as I pull the lever to the stop position it makes the pins contact and earths out the ignition.

What I don't see is how these pins are moved. I did spot that there was a bit of rotten rubber inside the outer cap and I reckon that was the pin rubber you mention.

I reckon for simplicity I'll run the wires up the air intake and put a pushbutton by the lever.

I think I seized the engine at the weekend anyway, so it's the least of my problems at the moment.

Cheers again

Running wires up the handle is a false economy.

There a hole in the carb, if it is not blocked its a source for dirt to get in the mower.

The pin rubber goes in the hole, its the perfect fit to block the hole. The pin goes down the centre, this sees that the rubber cannot be disslodged.


Theres a 'cam' on the grey rotator valve in the carb that bumps the pin across to make the contact with the cross pin.

Fuels and oils can effect the rubber on the pin and make it soft and split etc. So sometimes it needs to be replaced.
Chances are if it was working perfect before, with a new rubber it will be good to go again.

The pin rubbers are usually $1-1.50 at a mower shop.
A lot easier to replace with the carb off. If you are taking the carb off i would suggest renewing both the o-rings on the linlet manifold as well. As well as removing the primer face on the carb and cleaning the carb 'bowl' out. Put a new O-ring on the primer face as well, take care not to loose the needle. 4 parts, the face, the needle the float and the o-ring.
In the case of your suspected seized mower; If it is good to go again, i would suggest getting an o-ring for under the starter while you are there. All up it should be about $10.

Thanks again mate, great advice. I know the carb is super clean I had it totally apart and cleaned out, but I'll take your advice on the intake rubbers and pin rubber.

I'm pretty sure I seized it as it was running well then just stopped pretty quick, no momentum run down at all. I couldn't move the starter rope at all, abut once it had colled down it would turn over again.

I'm not inclined to start it up again until I pull the motor apart and have a looc at the piston and bores.

I was thinking that I'd need to buy another mower, but the price of engine parts seems reasonable enough to make an engine rebuild pretty economic, depending on the cost of any special tools required.

You dont need to pull the engine apart.

Take the muffler off and look at the piston and bore in there.
Take the inlet manifold off and look in there as well.
Pull the starter off and look at the bottom of the bore and the skirt of the piston.


If its all dry in there spread a bit of 2 stroke oil love around inside the crankcase of the motor before you put it back into service.


The only way you would seize it would be with no oil in the fuel or if you got it really really hot. Perhaps a lean out due to a partly blocked jet would do it.

I had a Victa Vantage that did that.Was going great until I lent it out.After it came back I was mowing my lawns when all of a sudden it just stopped.I couldn't pull the cord it was like it had locked up.I waited until it cooled down.Then I could pull it again,but it just would not start.So I pulled the muffler off and looked inside.'Oh my' is what I sort of said.The rings were in-bedded into the piston.The scores in the bore were very deep.I don't know exactly what caused such a mess,but the engine was dead.I hope that hasn't happen to yours.

I'd just about take a bet that your friend put straight petrol in it, and it was still in it when he returned it to you.

Yeah grumpy, that sure sounds like that is what has happened......
A wise old man once said to me...."there's 2 things I will never lend....one's my wife....and the other is my lawnmower!!"

Oh, I'd add my car, my tools, and pretty much anything else I care about. I even have a theory: usually when someone wants to borrow something, he or she doesn't know how to use it. Unfortunately they often know they don't - and that is why they want to borrow one, not buy one.

Wholeheartedly agree grumpy,
Amen to that!!

I think it is more the fuel can he was using.It's and old metal can,which I think must have had rust going through it.As it was only on the exhaust side which was buggered.He brought his mower around and it had done the exact same thing.I don't usually lend things out,but seeing as he was family I did.I have this saying when people want to borrow stuff.Yes I will lend you my _______ but I come with it at $55 an hour.

I don't see how a rusty fuel can could cause lubrication failure. It could obstruct the main jet and cause loss of power for a fairly short time until it stopped the engine completely, but that isn't likely to cause piston seizure.

Its the second tank of straight fuel that does the damage.

No it wasn't just fuel as I had mixed it up as 2 stroke.I did empty out the fuel container just left a little bit of fuel in there and there was quite a lot of rust in the container. In fact I start scathing the bottom of the container and it started leaking from the bottom.So I don't know how but I'm sure it was a rust problem.