OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa Utility Model 540

James,

Have a real close look at the bottom seal because some time I have been caught with them. If you end up having to take the cylinder I would be checking by putting fuel in the crankcase to see if you get bubbles (this shows a leak).

From your reply before I am assuming that the rings are either worn or the cylinder is scored. You can also check this by looking in the exhaust port after taking the muffler off.

Let me know what you find.

Hi James Looking at your pics I see one of the flywheel fins is broken . .I think you should consider breaking off the opposite fin to help balance the engine once you get it running . Did you get a Tank yet?/ Regards Joe

Hi Joe,

No Tank yet, however Bruce is still looking.

Actually two fins are broken ... if I balance them up will it affect cooling?

Cheers

James

Nasty ... time for a new piston and rebore I think? One of the rings has broken up some time ago and banged up the piston ... can hear a few bits of ring rattling in the exhaust ... no bits remain in the ring recess or in the cylinder (should all the bits have gone out the exhaust?).

Can you still get a piston for these models? I will check the bottom seal like you suggested ... should I just replace it now we have come this far?

BTW if I replace the bottom seal, there is lump of round steel on the bottom of the crank (below the bottom seal) that the blade plate backs on to ... is this on a spline or is this yet another nut I am going to fight with?

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James,

I would be doing the following now you have taken the cylinder off.

Go to the parts list and repair manuals and open up the forum for Victa motor manual (you will need password which I will PM you) and click on Victa early model 125cc & 160cc Motors. You will be able to print off and do your repair.

Note:

I would recommend that you replace all bearing and seal, cylinder & piston to do a full reco.

Once you have done it you will have a machine that will start on the first pull every time and outlast the motors that they are`producing these days.

James,

The washer on the shaft is to protect the oil seal. It is just a push fit on the crankshaft.

Hi Bruce,

Can you please send pricing on parts for full reco.

Cheers

James

Hi James the lack of 2 fins would not greatly affect the cooling. It will afect it slighly but not really worth worrying over Regards Joe

James,

I have sent the parts today express post, you should get them tomorrow.

Note that I have also put in the bearings as well so that you can do a full reco on the mower.

If you have any questions on the reco just post it on the board and I will do my best to help.

Hi Bruce,

THANKS!!

Hopefully get some mowing done this weekend!!

Cheers

James

James,

Make sure you give the cylinder that I sent a good clean before you install it.

Hi Bruce,

Can you please confirm the ring order on the piston ... I have one with white steel layer on black, one black and one thin kinked one. I am assuming like so:

top groove: kinked on then black ring on top
bottom groove: white steel layered ring

Cheers

James

James,

The piston ring that has a silver colour is the top ring and the black coloured is the bottom (one nearest the skirt of piston).

Hi Bruce,

How do you get the top bearings out? The cam that the points ride on (top of crank) does not look as though it will fit through the top alloy casing of the crank case. There seems to be a shaped hole in the alloy casing, but I dont think it is big enough??? (about 1mm too small)

I had no trouble replacing the bottom bearing and seal.

Cheers

James

James,

Do you have the crankshaft out of the top housing(point side)?

The top crank side should be 20mm shaft and if so the top bearing will be correct.

As to getting out the top bearing you need the crankshaft out then you get a drift to drive the bearing towards the centre as you will see in this drawing.

Hi Bruce,

All good now!!

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Thanks!!!

James

James,

Does it start easy now?

Suggestion:

I would move the starter around so that is facing towards the back wheel.

Reason:

When you start the mower it is always advisable that you place your foot on the back of the rear wheel because if you fall over or the compression is high you will push the mower away from your feet. The way it is at the moment you could pull the mower onto your self and cause a lot of hospital bills.

Hi Bruce,

I moved starter as you suggested. It now starts from cold 1-2 pulls, and hot 2 pulls. It seems to be getting easier to start as I use it more.

Cheers

James

James,

Did you clean the carby jets and did you check the float level (it should be 3/16").

The mower should start 1st pull when hot if it the settings are correct.

You should only have to pull the rope about 1 1/2 foot when hot starting it sounds like an air leak or a carby problem now.

Which side did you put the ring gap on the exhaust side or the inlet side?

Hi Bruce,

The manual said gaps to exhaust side in my model (hope this was correct). I will re check the float, I calibrated a few weeks ago. The bottom seal is now dry (no dust). I have flushed the carby but not cleaned the jets specifically by dissasembling the emulsion chamber.

Cheers

James