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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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Hi I am very fortunately about to receive (inherit) an oldish Alroh BB20 mower which has been sitting in a shed for a few years (5-6). I would be most grateful for any advice on things I should do to get it back into operation in order of priority. It was in reasonable condition when last used.
ie Dont try and start straight away Change engine oil Change Plug Check Petrol tank and line etc Try and turn cylinder etc etc Check all bearings
Would anyone have a list of items I should undertake before attempting to start the engine which is a B&S ?HP..
many thanks for any help Rob
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Rob, I suggest you divide the project into two phases: getting the engine working, then getting the mower working. Can you declutch the engine, and rotate its crankshaft without driving the mower? If so you can go through a simple engine checkout, which needn't be as elaborate as your list unless you will enjoy doing that stuff. If the engine is full of decent-looking oil, its crankshaft rotates freely, it is disconnected from the mower, and it has a clean petrol tank, you can put fuel in and try to start it - after you are sure you know how to stop it. B&S engines normally have a kill switch that shorts out the ignition. Never start an engine until you know how to stop it - preferably, several ways to stop it.
Once the engine is running properly move on to checking out the mower - which you do initially without running the engine. With the clutch disengaged, you try to rotate the non-engine side of the clutch by hand, seeing what happens and how easily it turns. If everything turns steadily without resistance or strange noises, it is time to run the engine and engage the clutch. Having accomplished that, it is time to start cleaning it all up, lubricating it, and checking the adjustments.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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Thanks Grumpy All sound advice. I think the engine will be fine! It arrives in Brisbane from WA 11 February. Should I be able to move the crankshaft by hand or might it need a little persuasion initially?
I did mow dads lawn with it as a teeneager and am now closer to 50 than 40!!! Do you know any good mower techs in Brisbane that I could utilise in the event things dont go as I plan?
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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On any well-used single cylinder 4-stroke engine, if the crankshaft won't turn rather easily by hand, you are in considerable trouble. The only times I've seen them refuse to turn after storage one of two things happened: either they wouldn't turn before storage either (i.e. they were seized up when they were stored) or water got into them during storage. The latter could only happen if they were more or less under water, or they were incomplete engines (missing air cleaner or manifold, or breather pipe, or some other part that let water get inside the engine). Mostly, if they had oil in the bearings when they were stored even rather a lot of water in the engine sump will not cause them to refuse to rotate - but just a few drops of water in the cylinder will do the job.
One point additional to my previous post: do not touch the crankshaft or any other moving part of any engine without making sure it can't start. For a B&S engine, that means disconnecting the spark plug lead at the plug end, and making sure it can't fall back onto the plug when you're not looking. You really don't want to think about what can happen otherwise. Like snakes, the only safe one is a dead one.
I'll leave your second question to somebody from the Brisbane area, such as Deejay.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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More sound advice. You break an arm, dislocate a shoulder trying to start something and then turn it over once by hand and lose you fingers !!!
I am sure it was stored in a shed that didnt leak and wasnt flooded so shouldn't be a problem there. And I am sure it was complete so no issues there either.
I'll let you know when it arrives. Deejay responded to my initial post and welcomed me to the forum. I wasn't aware that he was a local. He might like a "cashy" himself !!!
Cheers
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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I believe Deejay only visits Queensland occasionally now, he no longer lives there - but his memory and contacts are excellent.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Rob and to grumpy, thanks mate, that's quite correct, I have lived in Wagga Wagga for the last 30 years, but luckily I do have my Dad and heaps of rellies and friends living in Brisvegas. I contacted a mate who said that he gets his cylinder mower (Rover 45) serviced HEREand has no complaints thus far...they seem to have a very good reputation. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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Thanks Darryl
Bit of a hike to the Gold Coast (almost) but will keep them in mind. A day at the beach perhaps!!
Cheers
Rob PS Bad news is my lawn succumbed to a fungus and I lost 1/4 - 1/3 of it in a two week period (Pythium Blight). Less to mow when I get the machine going I guess..
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Rob, don't forget that you can always ask the advice of your local Bowling or Golf Club greenskeeper about care and maintenance of your 'green'. I have always found them to be very helpful and friendly when they understand the lengths you are going to to establish a fine lawn. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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G'day Darryl I have been loathe to try and make contact with local people thinking the last thing they need is someone elses problems. I have established forum type contact with a bloke in Atlanta Georgia in the USA who has been super helpful but his conditions are a lot different to ours. I am also starting to get a feel for the costs involved and the sensitivity of "special dwarf" turf. My Legend Couch (standard couch cross) is thriving and I wonder at the end of the day whether it was a bad decision to plant the dwarf. I'll persist for 12 months to see what I can do.
Not quite sure how to add a photo here but will send a couple to you.
Cheers
Rob
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Rob, I was just wondering if the "special dwarf" that you mention is "Tift Dwarf". Most, if not all, bowling greens that have a permanent greenskeeper in Wagga, use it, and were sown from the Number 1 green at the now defunct Wagga City Club. It is a most unusual grass in that you can sow it from it's own clippings. A mate of mine who is the head greenskeeper down at Greenwell Point NSW,(near Nowra) told me once, that it is very susceptible to all types of diseases, fungus etc. and needs to be sprayed constantly and that quote "You'd have to be a qualified greenskeeper to look after it" unquote. Rob, I just gave him a ring and asked his advice...he re-stated the above quote and said that as your 'Legend couch' is doing so well, you might consider sowing your green with a fine couch such as "Greenleaves" or "Conquest". These make a fine putting surface and are used on golf greens and bowling surfaces with great success. It doesn't need the constant care and attention that the dwarf grasses require.....Maybe food for thought.
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 40
Novice
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Hi Darryl
The turf in question is Tif328 and is a fine dwarf couch hybrid specifically bred for greens on golf courses. I understood that I would be doing a lot of work including mowing almost every day to get the finish that I wanted and that I would have to guard against fungus and other pests including weeds and bugs. The day I laid it my mates went missing in action and I had a lot of refreshments that evening!! Jeez it was hot that day.
The learning curve is very steep and the chemicals etc cost a bomb and are hard to get in reasonable sizes (domestic size). Golf courses spend $200 - $300 for a 1 Litre container on the best fungicide that would last me 10 years and does a single treatment at a course !! My turf only cost $500 so large investments like this are crazy. I will use a pre emergent herbicide to keep the weeds at bay and will need to keep spraying fortnightly while things are hot / wet up here to keep the fungus at bay. Fertilising monthly whilsty it growing with a Greens grade fertilsier.
It was all part of the plan and at the end of the day I can always dig it up and re plant with something less exotic and hardier.
I didnt see the Conquest when I did my research but note that golf clubs are using it for their tees but not greens. 328 is one of the stronger breeds available for green purposes. Also good on rugby fields by the looks of things. I guess it all depends on what you are trying to achieve.
I hope that with the help of all and sundry that I become street qualified greenkeeper of hard knocks. I will persist until the end of next summer and if I cant it looking good I'll replace it..
Thanks for your help. BTW its only 50 sqm, not a lot. The rest is legend, Sweet smother in a shaded section and Sir Walter on the nature strip. Its an exciting challenge!!
Cheers
Rob
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