OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Reel Lawn Mowers, Atco & Villiers etc. Removing front roller

Hi guys,

I've been lurking here for a while and found a lot of the information very useful.

What I need to know now is how to remove the front roller on an SB45 I picked up recently. Everything else on the machine is fine but the end covers on the roller are shot and there is a fair bit of play. If I can get it off I will either replace the end caps or engineer roller bearings to fit.

When I had a look at it, the rod through the center has a nut on one end but the other seems to be welded to the frame and this is what has thrown me. Do I need to remove the whole side cover just to get the front roller off?

What am I missing here please?

TIA
Cheers,
RossA

Dotball,

Below is a picture from one of the parts list in the parts list and manuals area of the forum. This should give you an idea of what you are looking at to take it apart.

Hi Dotball, and a big warm welcome to the forum. It is great to have another Scott Bonnar owner on board.
With your problem, all you have to do is remove the nut on the end of the roller shaft, and with a rubber mallet or a small block of wood and hammer; gently tap the end of the shaft (so as not to damage the thread) and it should slide out, releasing the roller. Note: one end has a 'T'section of metal welded to it, that wraps around the height actuating arm, but is not attached to it.....as per the diagram above.
Please let us know how you get on.

Thank you for that Bruce and Darryl, it helped heaps.

A couple of things it has highlighted, I need to replace a couple of bits and I don't have bolts on the end of part 20, I have studs with nuts.

When I examined the exploded view I realised I was working the wrong end of 21 and have now levered the "captive" end instead of trying to hammer from the nut end. This allowed the rod the be withdrawn and the roller to be removed. Part 21 and the end caps (part 33) are beyond servicable life and I need to get a price for them if you could point me in the right direction please.

The other thing is part 20 which seems it will need the side plate to be loosened to allow it to "flex" out tof the way to remove the part. Once I get it out I can properly ascertain if the studs are removable, and therefore replacable, or if I need to do that everytime. Although I doubt it would need to be removed very often. There is a fair amount of wear in the ends of that too so I may need to bush them but I will have a think about that once I get it out.

Your help is appreciated.

Cheers,
RossA

Hi Dotball, can you please post a pic of the front area of your dismantled machine, so we can hopefully diagnose the problem correctly for you?
Instructions for uploading pics are located in the "Board Help Area" of Forum Help (Page 2)on the main forum page.
This will help us to help not only you...but maybe someone else with a similiar prob.

Thanks Darryl, I'll try. :o)



Hope that works.

I am able to remove the front roller now thanks to the previous information, but the pivot arm (for want of a better term) has got me baffled.

Cheers,
Ross

Hi Ross, I now see what you mean, (a picture says a thousand words! ) This is obviously an earlier machine than mine; Scott Bonnar must have addressed the problem (as per the illustrated parts list posted earlier) by drilling and tapping the the cross-shaft and a small bolt fitted, to allow easy removal.

Ross, you're right in what you say, this part does not need to be removed usually, but in your case if it is worn, you will need to. In my opinion this will be easy if you tackle it from the left hand side (looking at the front of the machine)ie. the side without the chain case cover.

Just undo as many nuts as it takes on that side and carefully "spring" the side of the chassis clear of the threaded end of the cross-shaft, and slip it out to the left.
If you are thinking of giving the cylinder reel and bottom blade a sharpen, the reel and bottom blade (in it's holder) will have to be removed, this would be a perfect time to do it, and will help to allow that side of the chassis to "spring" a little easier.


I also notice in your pics, that one of the rubber blocks that the catcher rests on is missing. These are available as a spare part. This also helps keep the catcher aligned correctly and stops vibration
Please let us know how you get on.

Good pick Darryl,

I only removed it to make it easier to get at the nut on the height adjuster.

Worst part is each of the studs are a slightly different thread. I think at some point somebody has fitted an incorrect nut. At this stage it may be worth getting it out to assess my options on the workbench. If I need to I can always drill and tap to fit a bolt.

Speaking of age I (finally) found the numbers on the engine the other day. Can anyone tell me what these mean?

Model: 80202
Type: 2916 01
Code: 87051203

And how do go about getting prices for spare part too please?

Cheers,
Ross