I just bought an old Greenfield ride on mower in Sydney. Its a 25th anniversary IC11hp. It starts and cutters engage when short, (about 4 inches) lever is shifted into "cu" position,
But when the lever is shifted to the out position the cutters wont disengage. So i turn it off and on startup the cutters are disengaged.
Theres 3 options on the lever. On the right is OUT. In the middle is TF And on the left is CU. And theres a small chain welded onto the lever with a clip that only allows it to select in TF and OUT. Doesnt do anything in the tf selection as clip has to be taken off selector to select cu to engage cutter.
Hi syd, Welcome here, we try to help. My guess would be the blade brake has worn out and is not stopping the blades when they are moving or the belt is a bight too tight
Hi syd666, Welcome here, we try to help. My guess would be the blade brake has worn out and is not stopping the blades when they are moving or the belt is a bight too tight. Problem is these are an old machine that many people could have played with. They are a great machine once you get them sorted, so bear with it and you will have a good mower
Hi Syd, Not that I know of from memory it is rectangular in shape. From memory many years ago I just made one up from a bit of hardwood, bit of Flinstone style. The mate I did that one for, probably 8 years ago is still using it and has never complained about the blade brake not working. It is not too hard to get to, I stand the mowers up vertically with a chain block so things are easier to get to. I have also tipped a couple of Greenies on their side to work on them, but I think standing them vertically is the better option. Just empty the fuel tank and remove the battery before you do this.
I dont think i even need a brake. I dont intend on stopping it during mowing. It can stay like that for now. Would there be a problem turning the mower off with the cutter still rotating as in the user guide it states to turn the cutter off then turn mower off?
As long as you disengage the cutter before starting as it takes a bit of strain off the starter motor because most of them have plastic gears on the starter motor. No big deal to replace those if you have to
I wouldn't get too fussed it is only a flathead Briggs anything will do. I forget what they hold, about 1.5 litres I think. Just work it out on the dipstick
So when the cutter is on and i turn the cutter off without the brake working it still spins. It doesnt slow down and eventually stop. Why doesnt it stop?
As well theres an emergency brake label on the Greeny but thats it. And another next to it which is the hand brake along with a lever to operate it.
Is the emergency brake the actual brake?And how is it operated?
The belt is dragging the cutter because the belt is still spinning. The emergency brake is supposed to stop the mower rolling forward or backwards but it is a primitive design that usually doesn't work. The blade brake works off the cutter engage lever. They are separate braking systems. Years ago I fitted a hydraulic brake on one but it was a lot of work
Steering setup on these can only be described as awful. It is obviously missing a stop to prevent it from turning too far and usually when it turns too far you have to get off and pull the wheel back. Where the steering comes from the column out to the pivot point is probably worn out and along with the tie rod ends. A mate and I rebuilt his earlier this year, rebuilt the whole lot and now it works as good as new. Also remember both rear wheels are in constant drive so this also makes the steering harder, the rear wheels just want to push it straight ahead
I was just outside trying to adjust the steering and came to the same conclusion. Probably worn parts causing too much play. Hopefully when i give it the first go cutting net week i wont have to get off and correct the steering by hand.
From memory I drilled a 10mm hole 40mm out from the edge of the king pin in the flat coming out to the drag link bar and put a nut and bolt in it and that stopped the wheel coming around too far. I did both sides and no more getting off the mower. As long as you understand this poor mower has had its heart flogged out over many years, it can be repaired but it takes time
So even if it is a 91 or later it is still a 30+ year old mower, I don't you will see too many of the current rideons running around in 30 years or more
Today i cut the grass and twice the right wheel turned outward.at 90 degrees Could straighten it out the first time, but the second time had to jack it up and straighten it out. When i finished cutting the lawn both wheels were turned outward by a couple of inches.
Is this what it has been doing since brand new or is it just worn steering components?
The tie rod is adjustable to bring the wheels so they are parallel. To prevent the wheel turning out you will have to put a bolt in the bottom of the king pin to stop the wheel going around too far. It is a common problem with them. Some had stops to prevent it some don't. They have been butchered and bashed for over 30 years so a bit of maintenance is required
Right wheel turned in twice cutting the lawn. Im going to put in a stop like you advised. It turns to the right as normal but barely turns to the left after cutting yesterday. Just about pointing straight ahead now. The first part that comes off the steering shaft has a pin attached under it going through the mower and when i turn to the left it lifts up about 2 inches. But when i put my foot on it and then turn it just about turns normally. If it would just not move upwards so much it would be much better.The tyres rub on the king pin as well when steering is at full lock either right or left..
The wheel turns around like that is exactly what they do without a stop on it. Yes the pin through the quadrant is another primitive part that does wear . Big job to set it up with bearings, I did it on my mates 11 years ago and it is still working fine. I was talking to him this morning about it and he loves it now he doesn't have to get off and fix the wheel. Tyre rubbing on the king pin , might have to put a washer on the stub axle to space it out a bit further. To get it to turn left a bit better you may have to adjust the rod coming from the triangle quadrant to the top of the left king pin. Mate and I spent many hours earlier this year just getting the steering set up properly on his making new bushes etc, but now he is super happy with it, reacons it will see him out
Thats why i bought it. Even with the repairs its very much worth it. I checked John Deere and the rest and they were literally falling apart. Plasttic parts failing in short time and expensive to replace as well. Even near new ones. They dont make anything like they used to. Im almost 60yo so ive seen the quality reduce over the years with most things. A throwaway society were in. Even expensive cars are falling apart as they have to be retired before they get to 5 years old or else. Its a joke.
Another very important thing with a lot of the later stuff has the PTO drive to the cutter belt. A new PTO costs $300/600 so that is a good reason to avoid them
Its actually a 21st anniversary model. not a 25th, so if Greenfield started in 1966 its a 1987 model.I was 21 when it came out and now im almost 60 yo. Cut through 2-3 ft grass quite well.
