OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines G4/LM carby repair/modifications

That electric start just amounts to dead weight to my eyes. A good well sorted Powertorque is dead easy to pull start and it's a joy to start that way.

I have found a PT with an LM in good nick easier to start than a Suzuki 2 stroke. One prime, One slow pull to get the fuel in and then One fast pull will get my mustang GTS started and has been like that since it was new. While my Sisters Rover/Suzuki was always a 3-4 pull cold starter with choke on and most of the time a one pull warm start.

Another thing I have found with these carbs, every so often I get one that will not work for some reason. I can see no reason why they won't work. I can take all the parts out of that carb and fit them into another body and it will work fine. It has to be something wrong in the body but there is nothing visible that I can see. Not a problem for me as I have countless carbs here to play with but if somebody is modifying their carb and it doesn't work there is always this issue to keep in the back of your mind

Hi NormK,

Very interesting! Could you send that carby to me to investigate. I can pay for the postage. If I find the cause, I will share it on YouTube.

CM

That would be very interesting CM.

CM,
that will probably have to wait till yhe next one I have a problem with because once I find one that is a problem it goes in the bin

Or crush it in a press to relieve pent up frustration!

MF,
The frustration can be enormous but by the stage I have solved the problem and the body is sitting on the bench the last thing I could be bothered with is wasting more tim e going over to the press to crush it, the bin is much closer. As I said it doesn't occur too often but is frustrating when it happens as it takes me a couple of hours to set each carby up and have working. If I just have to pull the carb apart and change the body that only takes a few minutes.

But it's therapeutic, though binning the blighter is a lot less work and therapeutic as well.

I keep finding people referring to the G4 Carby that is self priming, as In no priming bulb. Does anyone have any pictures of one of these? Or am I reading it wrong?

Hello Seanoss
The first G4s were primeless.
It was a failed idea.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...re-bulletin-g4-carburettor-may-1975.html

Hope this helps.
-------------------------------
Jack

Hi Seanoss and CyberJack,

Very easy to fit a white primer cap. A slotted screwdriver and your thumb and forefinger to pull off the fuel hose are all that's required.
I did it to my late grandmother's high arch Pace Premier 160 and made all the difference in starting.

Thanks

Colin Rose Online aimb11
colrose

1. Can you tell me if the stop bolt is necessary if the kill switch has been replaced and relocated on the handlebar?

2. Where can I get a float needle that works? existing one is black plastic and dodgy!

3. How do I check that the primer is working?

4. Are the washers 1.6mm ?

Sorry to bug you but I love your work and would love to save the old Victa

Model CSK201H Serial 3475 18.1

Thanks

colrose

0418 513 814

Hi Norm, I'm in the process of modifying a G4 carby and have a few questions asking for more details.

With the 3 washers, are they used as a nut for the adjusting bolt on the cap or a spacer for the poppet valve?

Do I need to use 3 washers to equal 1.6mm or will a single (or pair) 1.6mm washer do the same thing?

What did you use to secure the nut to the outside of the cap?

Does this modification mean there is no longer a need for the throttle cable as it looks like that second screw will block it's location.

Cheers

Steve a novice here.

Hi Norm, I'm in the process of modifying a G4 carby and have a few questions asking for more details.

With the 3 washers, are they used as a nut for the adjusting bolt on the cap or a spacer for the poppet valve?

Do I need to use 3 washers to equal 1.6mm or will a single (or pair) 1.6mm washer do the same thing?

What did you use to secure the nut to the outside of the cap?

Does this modification mean there is no longer a need for the throttle cable as it looks like that second screw will block it's location.

Cheers

Steve a novice here.

Hi Steve,
I ended up getting my son to print me some nylon washers 2mm thick save me heaps of filing the washers out to fit over the shaft. One washer is fine as long as it is about 2mm. The washer goes under the3 leg lifter to compensate for the 3 lumps you cut off. The nut on the outside of the cap is a problem, I have tried several ways but the last batch I made up I used resin and once it had set I drilled and tapped it. This idea seems to be working the best. You still need the throttle cable so you can rev it up when you need to, the second screw is tapped through the original kill switch hole, once you have the cable fitted you put the screw in so the throttle can't be pulled back too far to prevent the cable popping out of the lifter. The kill switch did this job originally but they were just too hit and miss to work consistently

Thanks NormK, this is helpful..

I do have the cut out switch cables wired to a toggle switch on all the mowers I pass on to my family.

I might try Araldite Epoxy to see if I can glue that nut to the cap and see how that goes.

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve, can't remember if I tried araldite, plastic is such a pig of a thing to get anything to stick/hold to it. Just make sure you don't get any in the thread unless you have a tap so you can clean it out once it sets