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#11622 29/03/09 01:47 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Hi Bruce,
This seems to be a great forum and I've just joined.

I am a collector of vintage stationary engines and the like and have recently acquired 2 Victa lawnmowers. My favourite is the 1960/61 Victa Standard which is earmarked for "next project" but, for now, my questions will relate to a later model which I would like to restore as a working machine.

It's a Victa 160cc two stroke engine on a mower. From what I've been able to ascertain this is of the "older type" engines with a G4 carby. The number cast into the housing is "Victa - EN7 1935 A".
What is the correct ring gap and where should it be measured? I have bought a new set of genuine Victa rings (standard).
If I place a new ring about 20mm (3/4") from the bottom of the cylinder the gap measures 11 thou. (Aligned by pushing it into position with the piston)
The same ring when placed approx. 20mm (3/4") from the top of the cylinder has a gap of 13 thou (14 thou feeler fits but is very tight).
What do you recommend?

I was told (by someone who allegedly "knows", a retired lawnmower dealer who worked on many Victa's over the years !!) that I should measure it at the bottom and allow 20 thou ring gap - this seems quite excessive to me, especially after reading a good number of topics on this forum!!
We have a warm summer climate (this is when the mower would be used) - South African Highveld (approx. 5700 feet above sea level and average summer temperature of 25 degrees centigrade - but going up much higher at times but I will not mow the lawn during these higher temperature times. He (who "knows") did mention something about altitude and temperature when advising me.
After all this information, my question to you is this:
What ring gap should I allow?
I thank you in advance for any help that you may be able to give me.

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Hi Bill,

I forgot to ask this question.

The piston had an expander ring fitted under the bottom ring (ie. the ring closest to the crankshaft).

The new ring set I bought did not include this expander - should I (and can I) I safely reuse the old one and, if so, is it correct to place it under the bottom ring?
Thanks
Jerry




Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the reply. Yes Victa's have been available here right from the early days. It was one of the most popular mowers and always had a good name.

I'm afraid that I do not understand your reply re the expander ring.

Apologies but could you explain it again:-(
Thanks
Jerry

Last edited by jerrye; 29/03/09 02:44 PM.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Hi again Chris,
I've studied your reply and think I make sense of it now.Where you mentioned "id use a new one" I was reading the "id" as internal dimension and not "I'd" as you intended.

Any help on the ring gap ?
Thanks
Jerry

Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385
Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
****
The maximum ring should should be 0.011" (0.28mm) according to the workshop manual which is located in the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

I don't think it would be any different overseas. You can usually work out the minimum ring gap by using a simple rule for every 1" is 0.004 in. cheers2


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Many thanks Bruce,
I'm going to try to subscribe - will go to the page and see how it works. I'm not too good at this PayPal thing but will give it a bash. Once I've paid how long does it take to be activated and how do I know it is done?
many thanks for the info and for a great site.
Jerry.
P.S. "Earth hour" here so I'm typing by candle light on the laptop.

Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385
Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
****
Originally Posted by jerrye
Many thanks Bruce,
I'm going to try to subscribe - will go to the page and see how it works. I'm not too good at this PayPal thing but will give it a bash. Once I've paid how long does it take to be activated and how do I know it is done?
many thanks for the info and for a great site.
Jerry.
P.S. "Earth hour" here so I'm typing by candle light on the laptop.

Jerry,

You now have access to the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

I have just noticed that some of the links were not correct but all is ok now.

If you require more information to be uploaded just post on the forum as we are continually updating all the time as the request are being made.


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Thanks Bruce,
I had grey hairs trying to download last night, firstly the link to that page is very difficult to find (I eventually found it in one of your previous posts to someone else who was having problems)
Secondly because the 2 main manuals I needed were broken links but I see you have fixed it today and all is well, many thanks, they will be a great help.

Keep well
Jerry.
P.S. The first 2 items (paragraph 1) are still broken links.
P.P.S. One point here is that being an Aussie site I thought that the subscription charge would be in AUS$ but when I got to PayPal found that it was in US$ - there is a big difference and I think that you should make this clear on the subscription page :-(
Still worth it though.

Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385
Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
****
jerrye,

Thanks for the heads up on the two links which I have now fixed.


As to the subscription side of things, the reason for it to be in US dollars is because the site is hosted in the US and we pay them for the hosting services in US dollars.

You would know that nearly all hosting services charge for traffic (downloads etc) especially here in OZ that is one reason we shifted to the US and also in order to get better service. cheers2


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8
Novice
Hi Bruce,

Just a note to say "Thank You" for your help and also making the manuals available to us.

I started her tonight and cut a bit of grass - all I can say is "What a mower!" I've been cutting grass with a larger and heavier belt driven mower for the last few years. This Victa puts it to shame - so much power and so easy to push.

I bought the machine cheap (strangely enough from someone who is emigrating to Aus) for the equivalent of AUS $ 30.00. It had not been used for a number of years and the first time I pulled the rope on the Gear starter the rope snapped off inside the machine. That's where it all started.

I decided to take the top end off, hone the barrel and put new rings in at the same time. The engine was in good condition albeit a bit neglected. I got some help on the G4 carby from guys on the other list that I belong to (also Aussies) and you helped with ring gap and manuals.

I finished the re-assemby tonight - mixed some fuel and tugged at the rope twice before I realised that the throttle control was in the wrong position. Set that right and she fired and ran on the next tug. Big smiles all round !!! I then fitted the grass box and did some mowing of seriously overgrown lawn. The Victa hardly felt it - wow - what a machine!!

For a total of Aus$ 30.00 (purchase price) and another AUS$ 15.00 worth of parts I've got a great machine. The previous owner also gave me 4 brand new sets of VICTA blades but they were for a bigger machine. I clamped 2 together with one of the older (correct)blades in the vice and cut them down to the correct size. Checked them on a scale and they balanced fine so I used them - just had to extend the sharp part a little - the blower fins still matched perfectly.

Next step is to make a deflector plate for the back so that I do not have to use the grass catcher. I have about 3 acres of lawn to mow and there is no way I'm going to stop every few minutes to empty the catcher. The grass can lie where it falls. I'm at present in 2 minds as to whether I should make a deflector plate from steel or use some old "conveyor belting". I'm leaning towards the conveyor belting with a few slits cut in it for flexibility.

I also have to adjust the throttle cable and idle speed a bit but that's easy. (Of course the manuals help).

Once again, many thanks for your help and great site.

As soon as I start on the Victa 1960 Standard You will hear from me again. I intend restoring that one as a show machine - the one I have just done will be a working machine.

Feel free to view my site:
<www.oldengine.org/members/evans> and learn more about my engines. My download page also has some free manuals for Ransomes mowers and also some engines.
Keep well
Jerry







Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,385
Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
****
Jerry,

Thanks for your feed back on the forum. it is greatly appreciated and I am glad that you have got your machine running.

If you need any assistance just post on the forum and the members and myself will try and help.

I have also put a link on the forum to your site as it has some really interesting information there which I enjoyed reading and I am sure that the members here will find it interesting as well.

It would be great if you could post some of the pictures here as well to show our members some of the things that you have done with the old engines.

Thanks again for your input. cheers2


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.

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