I'm having a bit of trouble getting an armature off a Honda GX240 motor. "V" designation on the engine code, which I think is a taper shaft. The alternator is an Advanced power 3KVA jobby. I Have been soaking it in CRC 5.56 given it a few taps etc. I guess I just want some advice from someone on here if they have had one or similar apart, and if there is any tricks to it, before I get serious and potentially ruin it! I have not found a draw bolt through the armature, FWIW.. It appears I can't get any serious heat on it without binning it, I think.???
Bit pushed for time ATM, photo's will follow later..
Opinions welcome!!
Last edited by FAST GRASS; 30/08/2205:48 PM.
"Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"
The best way I have seen is to drip water down the bolt hole until it is full half way up the threads. Put some plumbers teflon tape on the bolt threads and screw in several turns.
Then when you feel the pressure of the bolt 'bottoming out' on the water, put an impact wrench on it. Since water wont compress (and since the taper end should be water tight) the pressure should pop it off the taper
In most cases it doesn’t require a lot of heat to help out. It just needs a temperature differential. I find that if I leave something in my unheated garage in winter and use a heat gun in the morning on the outer parts then the difference in temperature between the large parts, which remain cold, and the heated flange or nut is often enough. I sometimes freeze tools such as drifts or even entire assemblies if they fit and only heat the outer part.
The other thing is that some of these parts can be locked with thread sealant. The heat from a heat gun is more than sufficient to soften most sealants.
We also have CRC penetrant in a can, not the standard stuff but the product specifically marketed as a penetrant. It’s especially good on rusted on bolts. I’m in the habit of spraying the stuff on every day for a few days and leaving it to work it’s way in.
I also use shock and even a rattle gun on occasion, it really depends upon the composition of the components.
Heat on the crank and a little on the flange, screw off, the thread was a stud screwed into the end of the crank to hold it on the taper. Also screwing the thing to the bench helped a lot too! This gen set has done a lot of hours always had regular oil changes. see pics and thanks for the interest
"Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten"
always had regular oil changes.
