I'm tearing down a Scott Bonnar 45 17 inch Twin Rail with the Kirby H4-5A engine (assume this is the same as the HK25 and H30 models). The mower was working when I purchased it a few weeks ago, but I specifically purchased it as a restoration project. It had a new carby but everything else was (or seemed to be) original.
I have already read through a couple of the Kirby engine rebuild threads on this site and downloaded all the manual's for everything from the other threads.. So a huge thank you to those that have traveled this path before me (and I am just a novice).
I'm up to removing the fly wheel (see attached pic). I have removed the hub starter cover and nut, but the actual fly wheel doesn't want to just slide off. Do I need a special tool to remove or just use more force.
Also on the flip side of the engine I assume I have to drill out the oil seal as well. See second image attached.
Those Kirby flywheels have been amongst the hardest ones I have ever had to remove. I used a 3 legged puller on one and I was at the point of being scared to tighten any further when it let out this massive bang and came off the taper.
A bit of penetrene soaking in won't go astray, though a taper being a taper, if it wants to hold to the bitter end it will
Yep those flywheels can be a problem to remove , I made a puller assembly to remove them ,I have one flywheel that was drilled with 2 opposing holes then a steering wheel type puller was used but the holes were close to the centre but not into the steel centre, these flywheels are easily broken if they are stuck tight..
The crank seal I prefer to hit a small sharpened nail into, than drill, that way no swarf will find it's way into the motor then i use a slide hammer with a self tapper to pull the seal out ,punch a couple holes opposite one another to pull the seal evenly.
Hi Folks, Been a learning curve for me. Managed to clean up the engine so far and had it powder coated. Then I spent some time finding all new screws, bolts and nuts to make it look brand spanking new. I've attached a few before and after shots, but really happy with the way it looks. I've just found a replacement oil seal so almost ready to pull the handle and fire it up. Still a bit unsure of how the governor works with the piece the comes back out the engine case and attaches to the governor lever. Is there any special way the cover cylinder goes back on. How does that Governor gear interact with the metal bit inside the engine?
Also how do I replace the bearing in these parts? Large inter sprocket assembly (has some sort of pin in it). Do I just use pliers to yank it out? and the bearing in the inter adjustment bracket assembly and small inter sprocket assembly
Hi AVP I have a Kirby Tecumseh KAV 74 that was totally in a shambles when I found it, and spent 12 months off and on restoring it. Runs like new now. Had exactly same flywheel as your pic. I bought a steering wheel puller from Repco ($40 approx), drilled 3 holes where the 3 lumps are on the flywheel, then tapped thread into them, and pulled it off with the puller. Came off with a bit of a shock, but was ok. They are fairly tight first time around..... The metal is fairly soft-can pretty much just thread the 3 bolts you are going to use to pull it straight into the Aluminium. I didn’t even need a proper tapping piece.
Also how do I replace the bearing in these parts? Large inter sprocket assembly (has some sort of pin in it). Do I just use pliers to yank it out? and the bearing in the inter adjustment bracket assembly and small inter sprocket assembly
One easy way to remove the bearings is to block the hole in the other side of the bearing with a bolt that is a snug fit ,preferably without the thread on the bolt ,if the bolt is under size (loose fit) then some insulation tape can be used around the bolt until it fits the hole snug.
Then fill the bearing hole with grease and use a rod or bolt that is a snug fit in the bearing ,use insulation tape if you are using an undersized bolt ( shaft) then hit the shaft with a hammer and when the bearing moves put more grease in and hit the shaft in again.
The orange shaft to block the hole in the pic below would need to be facing the ground when attempting the removal of the bearing to stop it from being dislodged.
The roll pin ,you could try removing it with long nose pliers avp ,if that doesn't work I would snap it off with a pin punch and then use a round file if any bit of the pin is still sticking out.
Another way would be a slide hammer but you will need a big bench vice or a pilot bearing puller .
