Hi guys. First time posting here and new member so thanks for having me
I've got this Rover that was working just fine until I started messing with it! I put in back together and now the the pull cord is kicking back really hard when I go to pull start. Usually about halfway through the pull and occasionally works ok and starts up fine.
- Doing some research it sounds like the flywheel key has sheered and now the timing is out which is causing it to yank back out of my hand - sound about right? - How hard is this flywheel to get off and whats the best way to do it? Flywheel remover? - Can anyone point me in the right direction to get one of these if needed and also the key replacement? This'll be the first time I'm doing this so any help would be great! - Also, I'm cleaning this one up and giving it away to a friend - I'm not giving away an absolute gem or anything am I? These are pretty common old mowers?
Cheers for your help guys (pic is not the exact mower, found online coz I cant be bothered going out to take a pic right now but is identical)
Sounds probable that it could be the key, usually takes a sudden stop to shear it, and is not overly common on these little ones, the flywheel is really light. What did you take apart?
Also worth checking the valve clearance, possibly points and condensor too.
Replacement key is 222698 genuine briggs and stratton, available from any mower shop or heaps of places online.
To remove the flywheel, you will need to remove the starter cowl, the undo the starter cup. now this either requires the special tool, or you can use large multigrips. You need to hold the flywheel to undo it but Don't use a screwdriver through the fins, they will break off. Once the starter cup is off you will be able to see the keyway and whether it is sheared or not.
To fully remove the flywheel, it is on a taper on the shaft. so you will either need a genuine puller, or what I normally do is lever gently up on one side, and gently tap the other side with a hammer. what ever you do do not hit it hard, it will crack. If you hit the end of the crankshaft it will burr and the starter clutch won't go back on. All else fails there are videos on youtube on flywheel removal.
They were common once upon a time, getting less everyday, especially with good wheels. Doesn't mean its worth anything though, Rovers don't have the value of victas. I've only been collecting the 70's push mowers for the last year or so, they are out there but not like you would think.
Feed some rope into the spark plug hole to stop the engine turning over then you can use a socket and a long socket wrench to remove the starter cup nut.
Feed some rope into the spark plug hole to stop the engine turning over then you can use a socket and a long socket wrench to remove the starter cup nut.
Umm, sidevalve Briggs spark plugs are positioned over the valves, away from the cylinder bore. Also, this Briggs will have a starter clutch, not a cup.
The best way to undo these clutches [in the absence of the two Briggs factory spec Service Tools], is to place a punch, soft metal drift, or a small piece of hardwood, against one of the screen mounting lugs on the periphery of the clutch, and hit it with a lightish hammer. It's a RH thread, BTW. The use of impact renders it unnecessary to lock the flywheel/crank.
Firstly - thanks everyone for the replies, legends.
- Thanks Nath - I wasn't mowing with it so there was no sudden stop...so why would the key shear I'm thinking? I just took the carb and petrol tank off. Cleaned out the carb (boiled in white vinegar actually). - You said worth checking valve clearance, points and condenser - any advice on what I'm looking for here? - Thanks for the parts number for the key
- Thanks Gadge. I'm assuming the starter clutch is that hunk of metal thing sitting above the flywheel. Yeah..was wondering how to get that off. Are you saying that if I use a punch in the spot you suggested I can give it a jolt and then it should unscrew?
- Not sure if relevant but the shaft that sits above the clutch (if that's what it is) clicks when turned in the opposite direction to that which spins the blade.
- From what I gather the flywheel should be able to be gently pried/tapped off using light hammer and screwdrivers?
- Sorry for the newbie questions guys. Just getting into mowers and loving it but got a lot to learn obviously.
Hi Rocketman, it's the bit of metal underneath that the blades are attached to. Some mowers are right pigs to start, and can rip your fingers off, if you try to start them without it attached.. Main culprit in my experience is Victa 2 Strokes, it's worth ruling out anyway.
I don't collect mowers. I just require Multiple Mowing Solutions™.
Oh, and I meant to say, that's the starter housing sitting above the flywheel. You'll need to remove that before you can get to the starter clutch.
Now, I can't remember for sure, but I think once you've taken the housing off, you can cause the spring to jump out. It's just a tightly wound coil of flat metal. It's actually not that hard to get back into place, but it's been about a year since I've last messed with a Briggs like this. There are also six (ish) or so ball bearings that sit in little grooves under there, don't loose them! Once that, and I think the finger/debris mesh guard, are safely put away, you can then have at the starter clutch.
I've attached an image of what the starter clutch looks like.
I don't collect mowers. I just require Multiple Mowing Solutions™.
Yes with Briggs engines (4 Cycle) you must the carrier or bar blade in place as they are used condensate for light weight flywheels. A sheared flywheel key can cause kick back as well as a fail ACR (automatic compression release) on the camshaft.
To the above clutch it is best to use tool design for the removal and installation as you can re-torque to a known value; otherwise, you are just guessing at the proper torque. But these can be removed using a hammer and punch on the heavy ears.
Mystyler is right that is six steel balls inside these clutches. The square upright section rides on the crankshaft stud. The stud must be burr free and lightly lubed so it will hang and destroy the recoil assembly. If you look at the above image you will see a small hole that oil is forced into soak the fiber pad that rides above the crankshaft stud so it provide oiling over an extended time.
So NormK, not a dumb question, maybe a dumb solution haha coz thats exactly what was wrong. I replaced the blade and it fixed the issue. Thanks NormK and everyone who gave advice
