Drove the Camira tonight and upon getting home found ominous drips of green coming out.
As far as I can tell (in the dark) its coming from where the thermostat housing base bolts to the engine. Its what I would describe as a moderate weep - its not spraying out flat out. I drove a good 20 odd minutes and the total loss was about 1 cm down in the surge tank (100-150ml).
Its not an impossible job to get the thermostat housing base off - drain coolant, alternator belt off, remove timing belt, remove upper radiator hose. Which should technically be a simple job in a Camira (consideriing the water pump was replaced in 2017, so wont be frozen.
What worries me is the thermostat housing base was last replaced in 2003 after a major cooking - new head, etc. The mechanic who put this thermostat housing base on is the same guy who put a camry thermostat in with a sledge hammer (turning my small job into a several hour ordeal).
Ie - who knows if the mounting bolts are stripped/cross threaded/flooded in loctite/overtorqued and will stuff me up.
As its only a weep (and I have a very small drip from the heater core (which is a much bigger dashboard out job)) I was considering trying a stop leak. Worst case its $20ish down the drain.
Morning Tyler, The stop leak is worth a try......... if it works you won't have to do second option......a full job. brings back unhappy memories speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Hi Tyler, As you know you have a 50/50 chance of it working, as speedy said nothing much to loose, sometimes depends on the surface area you are trying to seal. Might work on a gasket, but I'm guessing it mightn't. Try running it with the radiator cap released to the first notch for a while to see how it goes. Weather is a bit cooler now so should not be a problem
This product is far and away the best stop-leak I've ever used - and a very experienced old auto engineer mate used to swear by it. You can buy it direct, or via Repco, Bursons etc.
Hi Tyler, I would not bother with the stop - leak , the thermostat housing gasket could have compressed over time and the bolts need tightening but because it was left loose the gasket may need replacing ,if you use stop leak you could have a small problem get a lot worse further down the track ,drain the coolant into a tub so you can use it again,remove the housing, check it's straight on the mounting face with a ruler,replace the gasket,use permatex non hardening sealant or silastic on both sides of the gasket, cut your own point eight of a mm gasket, it looks like a 15 minute job ,then after a week tighten the bolts again.
Also use the permatex or loctite sealant on the inside of the radiator hose where it mounts to the housing,this will help with sealing and makes the hose a lot easier to remove next time. Cheers Max
I think stop leaks etc should be treated as a temporary repair until a proper repair can be carried out, a bit like putting a band aid on cut that needs stitches, it suffices until you get to the hospital. If you go down the stop leak path I'd be worried every time I drove the car that you might end up stranded on the side of the road. If it's not your daily driver and only gets the occasional lap around the block it might do for a while but the inevitable is that it will need fixing at some point. You can always bypass the heater core if need be, my back's twinging just thinking about the R & R of a heater core.
Norm & Speedy, I usually run the radiator cap slightly loose - problem is there is no latched rad cap - just the surge tank
Gadge, I have ordered the irontite from repco thanks
wce - it doesn't get driven far now.
I remember a few years ago I was told it was making this 'weird pinging noise' on the way back from the doctor (when Nan was still driving). Nothing in the surge tank, squeezed the top hose - empty. Squeezed the lower hose - nearly empty. Lower hose leaked it all out. She drove 15km to the doctor, 15km back, then worked out she left the script on the reception bench so drove back. I pulled out a plug and it was blistered white and not healthy (new set of plugs 2 weeks before). I was convinced the head was warped. Replaced hose, replaced plugs, refilled and it fired right up.
Originally Posted by maxwestern
Hi Tyler, I would not bother with the stop - leak , the thermostat housing gasket could have compressed over time and the bolts need tightening but because it was left loose the gasket may need replacing Cheers Max
The smaller one is now sealed after shearing 1 bolt (which was severely necked down from over tightening) and getting the hammered camry thermo out. I have 2 spares now (on clearance for $10 at repco), so next thermostat change, I will throw a new one on.
I have used Chemiweld many times. It does not always work but it's much better than temporary. I have used it on rebuilt Tractors at the advice of the engine rrconditioner. It sealed a crack that had been metal stitched as I watched and the Tractor went for many years after that. I have had many permanent repairs with this stuff.
Trouble with the alternative is that once you start pulling down a motor with an aluminium head you have no idea where it will end up. Could easily need a new cylinder head.
Trouble with the alternative is that once you start pulling down a motor with an aluminium head you have no idea where it will end up. Could easily need a new cylinder head.
Jeff
Exactly Jeff - one thing I have learnt about anything mechanical - a simple job often turns out not to be (and the probability of going wrong doubles if someone else has worked on it haha)
