OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Two Stroke Lawn Mower Frames Fixing Up Victa Steel Chassis.

the 12v went fine Norm. Not a great amount of pressure, but enough. I had a 55 l tin rubbish bin (new) filled with water warmed up on the stove - went through the 3/4 full bin in 5-6 minutes.

Good enough shower

Not sure what kills the hot water systems - its never the tank that goes but the electrics, but will sure ask the installer tomorrow.

Was tempted to just go to bunnings and get a new system and put it in myself, but insurance problems and all that

Had a look at the v40 i picked yesterday fixed rusted starter pawls, adjusted valves, sprayed up the main jet (carby full of red water), went first pull and ran perfect, so i didn't have the heart to kill it off because of rust - so i cleaned it a bit, looks ok

Has ute blades on it for some reason

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a couple of PT's a F/C and a Turner 4 stroke. The F/C had no spark plug and was looking pretty bad, covered in rubbish. Today I thought I had better have a look at it because it had been sitting outside and we have had a fair bit of rain the last few days. No spark, fit another module, new plug and modified carby and it fired straight up and runs beautifully. I had given it zero chance because it just looked so bad. Now to check the 2 PT's, hopefully they will both fire up, then they would have been a good pick up for $30
Both PT's fired up no problems so that was a good afternoon, strip them down and put the motors on the shelf for later

Hi everyone,
Here's my first deck I've fully painted. I was going to paint only where the pressure washer had accidentally removed paint and a few other spots but I decided to repaint the entire thing when I found this matching colour at Bunnings and it claimed no primer required.
After sanding with 160 grit, applying phosphoric acid (rust converter), leaving overnight, masking axles and flap, I then applied paint.
I couldn't get a consistent finish though. When I applied a heavier coat in one area, overspray affected another. The result was mirror finish some parts, orange peel in others and even a satin to matt finish in a couple of areas. The can says not for automotive use, so I'm overall happy how it turned out.

I found a second hand grill online. Abit rough around the edges (literally), but it looks way better than without it (!!).

I thought you might have picked up that grill I was thinking about it but didn't get around to it. Base looks pretty good

Looks a whole lot better than it did in the "before" picture.

Hi NormK and bigted,
it was certainly worth doing. Despite some surface flaws showing from under the paint -the engine will cover this, it looks really smart with a refreshing coat of matching colour. I must do this more!

Next time though, I'll heat the can.

Looks a lot better MF

Will have to think about doing this now my PT corvette is going well

By the way, the hot water was fixed last monday, it was (I presume) rust in the electrical connector causing resistance and melting. All the guy did was strip the wires, and put a new connector on

Bill came today - $180 for 8 minutes work. I am seriously pissed off

Wheels fitted and engine in the middle of fitment.

Hi folks,
after fitting the handles and fitting the motor and blade carrier, it was time to see how it runs. After turning on tap and pushing primer three times it fired up third pull.
Two problems though. The exhaust needs more baffling and it way over revs in the run position. Idle is ok.
On another mower I fitted baffling to, it arrested it's over revving at the same time. I will do the exhaust first and hope that solves it. Does anyone know a good priced set of manifold o rings should I need to go down that path?

What do you think of the completed mower? It looks great in the flesh. I'll give the engine a wipe down later.
Any suggestions to clean the grime off the engine cover? Simple warm soapy water?

Looks good MF, you can try a bit of WD 40 on the cover, freshens them up buy may not get rid of the petrol stain though. Best manifold sealer is roof and gutter silicone, works fine on both inlet and exhaust.

Norm it seems to look better every day. It honestly looks like a brand new base to the casual observer.

Now with the engine. I found no packing in the muffler so used up my last spare packing I had scavenged off another. Quietened it down a bit but still revs like a jet engine (not good) so will have to have a look at the manifold o rings next *sigh*.
Is it possible the air leak is occurring where it meets the block? I guess that's where the silicone comes in.

PS: found scoring on the piston and a couple of score lines on the bore when I checked through the exhaust portal. Damn! Rings looked ok.

MF,
which "O" rings are you talking about, inlet manifold? I have only replaced one where the carby clips on and probably 2 or 3 where the manifold fits to the barrel, most times if I have to pull it off I just give it a slight smear of silicone. This is not the cause of the high revs the high revs are because you can't control the poppet position

Hi Norm,
I was talking about the o rings for the inlet manifold that seals the carby on. This one is the straight type. Are they problematic. It may have a crack. How would I remedy the lack of popett control? Surely it must be an air leak letting it rev out, though it ticks over ok with the lever forward of the cold start position.

Haven't had a problem with the straight inlets but that doesn't mean you don't have a problem with it. I have no idea how you can control the poppet movement without modifying the cam, then you can control the revs, without doing that I can't help you

MF, I would suggest you get a little tachometer like this one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Engine-Tach-Tachometer-Hour-Meter-Inductive-for-Motorcycle-Motor-SE/143310228155?epid=7020916288&hash=item215df48abb:g:~wEAAOSwHNxaCVIC .

If you get one like that, I suggest checking they mention a CR2450 battery not included - otherwise you have a sealed battery that isn't replaceable

The rusty corvette sounded like it was over revving, but tach measured it at 3500 rpm.

Hi Tyler,
no need for a tacho if you modify the carby you can control how high you want it to rev

Hi Tyler and Norm.
Trust me Tyler, if you heard it, you would know it's over revving badly. It made me frightened the blades would shoot off or the motor would blow up.
I can tell by the key of the engine note how high it should max out to.

Ok change the snorkel and use one with a shorter inner cable and this will prevent the cam being turned too far.

I know what you mean MF

At one point that corvette really hit high notes - and the kill wires convieniently stopped working at the same time (before carby mod) - had to rip the plug lead off

I agree with Norm - for some reason I have had less issues with the short air filter housing - now I know why

Tyler it isn't the length of the snorkel I'm talking about although the shorter ones seem to work better. I was talking about the inner cable with the ball on the end, some are quite a bit longer than the others and therefore the longer ones turn the cam further and therefore it allows the poppet to open further