Originally Posted by NormK
Not a particularly difficult job if you have a press, lathe and dial indicator. Pity you are so far away Widget


no press, lathe or dial indicator .. pity you are too far away lol frown .. thanks anyway smile

Originally Posted by Gadge
Don't use general purpose silicones here. There are a couple of types available, made for sealing motorcycle cases, that would work, but a solvent-based non-hardening 'gasket cement' is what Victa always recommended. Permatex #3 'gasket sealant', which comes in a bottle with a brush top, has always worked well for me. Any automotive parts shop will have that.

Originally Posted by Blumbly
Yes as Gadge said not silicon.I use one called form a gasket by permatex it's just a paste.Looks a bit like this.Got it from Super-cheap Auto.
[Linked Image]

Oh excellent.. ill head down to SCA and grab some smile cheers2

Originally Posted by Gadge
To absolutely ensure that the joint seals properly, you could lap the sealing surfaces. This just requires a sheet of 600 grit wet and dry abrasive paper and a really flat surface [e.g. sheet glass]. Wet the paper [with water is fine], place it on the glass, and move the crankcase half in small circles until the sealing surface is uniformly bright metal. Rinse off with clean water, dry, and it's done.


Thanks heaps for the tip, will have to give that a shot. smile Is that to roughen the surfaces so the gasket will bind better, or is it to clean the surfaces so they're clean of crud and allow for flatten even join?

Originally Posted by Gadge
If the bend is only at the start of the threaded section, as it appears to be, it's quite feasible to straighten it. The best way is with a press, a set of vee blocks, and a dial indicator and base.

Yeh Im pretty sure it's at the threaded section.. unfortunately I dont have many tools mentioned .. only option would be to place it in a vice and try yank on it. smirk

Originally Posted by Gadge
Yes, open bearings are required, so that the oil in the 2-stroke mix lubricates them. The correct types aren't that exy anyway; 20mm x2 HERE and 17mm x1 HERE

The big concern here, with the amount of rust on those old bearings, is the condition of the conrod big end rollers. Does the conrod rotate freely and smoothly, or does it feel a bit 'graunchy'? .... That kit is actually quite cheap!

Oh fantastic, ill have to see how many I need.. i think its only 2x of each bearing ? + the 2x oil seals.

"conrod big end rollers" that bar the piston attaches to ? I had a look, seems to spin freely and smooth ... ill double check... I did notice it's not attached like ones you would find on a 4stroke .. can they be removed? Looking at the pic Blumby posted, it looks like they can separate but maybe they were made as non-replaceable part during assembly ?

Originally Posted by Blumbly
Depending on year it was made these are common cranks so if you need to find one they are easy to find.That's another reason why I'd get another one.There is still plenty to find.
Here's a parts list of it.
[Linked Image]


Oh excellent, ill have to keep an eye out for one or an old un-savable engine to salvage. cheers2

Thanks heaps for the info guys, really appreciate all the tips and suggestions smile

Last edited by Widget; 23/12/16 10:37 AM.