Brown one in the centre. On the power torques this pin is longer and has a step in it. THis wire is the one thats earthed to the block.
Other wire is the cross pin.
It doesnt matter, i think the later power torques with the in built module had a grey wire and the old full cranks had two black wires. One wire is earth the other is ignition, polarity is not an issue.
Fist thing to check is the pin rubber and the rubber boot.
Cable adjustment can play a part.
Just remember What you give to one you take from the other.
Phillips head screw on the throttle housing, if you loosen it, push the lever down a bit to slide the screw down the slot and then do the screw up. Then try pulling up and see if the extra bit of movement will make the stop pins work. That can fix it, but only if the issue is to do with the throttle movement not being enough in that direction.
The plastic piece that the screw goes into is also a nut of sorts, after disassembling the throttle housing (until you get the hang of it this will do your head in), it will wind up and down the spiral outer of the throttle cable. This can be adjusted and often needs to be if the rotator in the carb is not going all the way around to full open.
If the relationship between the length of the inner and outer cable is not right. Too much poking out one end, and not enough out the other. The arc of movement at the lever is set, so is the movement at the carb. The cable needs to match.
To check this you pop the back cover off the carb and just peel the diaphragm back a bit, move the lever to full throttle and check that the rotator goes all the way around to touch the housing. I would suggest you do this after adjusting the cable via the screw.
If it does not reach the outer cable needs to be moved up toward the throttle lever, which is turning the plastic nut down toward the carb.
Sometimes what can happen is the plastic 'nut' at the throttle housing strips out. Ususally caused by a stiff cable. Only thing is to replace the cable.
