OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Looking to buy and "restore" an SB45

Hey TC,

I used to play for my former suburb Nollamara. Unfortunately work gives me little time to get to training or match days so I'm limited to the occasional spontaneous backyard match during summer...

Now, over the weekend I manged to finish my 45 and get in three shakedown mows. Here is a sneak peak. Just waiting on some stickers and a replacement metal decal as mine has seen much, much better days. I've since attached the brass ID plate too. She's not for show, so I didn't really bother too much about the dents in the chain cover or catcher. The catcher wasn't original anyway, but an '80s Kermit.

Oh dear. I somehow ended up in a Honda Shop today.

If you're thinking about replacing the motor on these things, it'll be the best thing you'll ever do. The GX100 is a straight bolt up and go - you just need slightly shorter mounting bolts.

Ideally, a GX120 would have been cheaper, but I am trying to keep my 5/8 steel clutch half, and I couldn't set my handlebars upright enough without plates or bending the bars around the old Briggs, let alone one of these things. I suspect if you have the newer, "kick out" style bars, this will be a non issue and give you more options.

You can also pick up a Briggs 550 or Honda GP160 between $290-$350. There is a lot of refinement to be found in these newer donks.

Thus why I've suggested to restorers on this platform to no longer persevere with the old flat head Briggs units, especially if they've got a twin railer and move over to one of these newer style engines that preserve the frames so much more and thus the repair jobs on fatigued units doesn't have to be so in-depth with strengthening gussets.

These newer engines and especially the 3.5hp Briggs unit can be run straight out of the box sitting unattached and it only slightly moves around while the old units will jump around like a cat on a hot tin roof and all that energy is being forced into the chassis, thus why most of them have failed over time.

Years ago bowling clubs bought Electric powered machines to avoid this problem of thumping being passed on into the greens surface but now they can use a petrol powered unit without concern for their ground underneath the machine.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. These new Briggs units (XR / IC / 550's) can be picked up for around $250 if you look hard enough and that's simply a no brainer in my opinion.

BB, $250 is a steal. I know they have alloy bores but still, domestic use should see a whole heap of use from that.

It may have even been a post by you on here that really cemented the idea of a new motor. I had to chemically weld the 1 quart fuel tank on the Briggs. Try as I might, I couldn't find a proper replacement tank with support strut. That, and like the proverbial cat, the amount of movement it had when I was test running it on a piece of cardboard at just above idle...I shut it off in case I cracked the case. So she's been overhauled and is sitting happily on a shelf in the storeroom. Not sure what will become of it, but that's a problem of choice for a later date.

So here are some pretty well final pics after the engine change. Just waiting for a replacement metal handlebar badge really. If anyone is thinking of the GX100, it bolts right on as it is available with a 5/8 shaft at the correct height. You will need some new bolts to hold it to the deck, the ones for the original Briggs are a bit too long. No more than a few dollars.

Here is hoping to another 50 years of service.

Hi MS,

Did you end up buying a set of those reproduction grips from George ?

Certainly looks superb and years of faithful service will be had from it.

Cheers,
BB.

Morning Bonnar_Bloke,

I certainly did. Worth the money. They are just like my original grips. Except that they don't fall apart when you touch them! I was expecting a fight to fit them, but they slid on no worries. I used some Kwikgrip to hold them in place. One stuck, the other didn't. Will clean it up and try clamping it this time.

Thank you. I wasn't really going for this level of "new" but in the interest of longevity I think it was the right thing to do.

Once I get that old Shademaster buffalo less spongy I hope to at least go back to a standard bracket. We'll see what the future holds.

Hi MS,

I was originally going to do the grips myself some 4 years ago as I have a perfect set that would've suited perfectly as the originals to make the mould.

I looked at the pricing and back then I just couldn't justify the outlay for minimal return that would've been gotten back. Remembering this was way before the SB craze ever got out of control like it has atm.

Anyway I'm glad someone did it in the end, but the pricing is still probably a tad on the high side but this would be to recover the initial outlay as quick as possible as this craze could end as quick as it started I've always said.

Are these made out of genuine rubber or are they more of a plasticised compound like the Rover Thoroughbreds had on their grips ?

Cheers,
BB.

Hey BB,

Dang, nothing beats hindsight. Nevermind, it could have gone the other way completely.

I wouldn't be surprised if George wants to recover costs ASAP. No one knows what this market will do!

I'm unsure of the composition. I would think they are a compound as they have a bit of a "silicone" feel to them but I don't think they are. If I remember I'll snap a photo tomorrow.

Hi Mystyler,

The mower looks terrific. I like the choice of the gx100, if I ever get my machine back in one piece (serious 17” twin rail issues) I would love to put one of these on. I don’t like how the new Briggs motors and gx120’s etc. hang over the edge of the mower by about 10-20mm, and I’m assuming the ohv Honda (or Chonda depending on how much I have to sink in to repairs or donor motors) will be much smoother than the old Briggs side valve I currently have. Anyway, love your work.

Cheers,

John

Hello John,

Thank you for the kind words. I wanted something that was going to last, and once I realised the level of corrosion I decided to "do it properly". It was initially just going to be put back into tip top mechanical condition.

The GX100 is a pearler. Dead quiet at idle, not to bad at full noise. I've been running it at about 75% throttle, but the thing will chug along at idle if for some reason you want it to. The overhang is minimal, you'd just as likely scrape the bolts down the right hand side as you would the starter housing. If you're keen I can measure it for you.

Ideally I would have liked the GX120 as it's a bit cheaper. However, it just looks too big on the 14", as do the Briggs offerings and I didn't want to lose my 5/8 steel clutch half. It may be vain, but enjoy a bit of "balance" to the look of the mower, especially if I'm the one who has to live with it. If the tank was a bit lower profile it would be perfect in my eyes...! It also would have robbed me of handle bar adjustment. Don't think that's a problem with the newer style, wider bars.

Kawasaki FJ100 was also getting a look, but the shaft height is different. Lots of motor though for ~$400 and the height problem can be overcome.

Good luck with your 17". I swear those old Briggs didn't help the twins longevity. Mine had an engine change at some point, (engine build is 1988) an 82232 was fitted when I got it. Nothing "wrong" with it but it's a thumper alright. Thankfully it was a solid. Hopefully you can get it back into service and doing what it does best. Keep us in the loop.