OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers 14” 45 stripped, what to blast

Thanks for all info so Im thinking dulux duramax high temp enamel for my handlebar and a Chevy red for engines,
On the engines I have just seen you can get a 6.5hp Baumr-AG engine for $129!! Anyone had any idea what these are like?! I have a rechargeable pole saw from these guy which is decent just not heard anything about there engines? At that price I would not worry about tthe old ones I was going to paint up!!

Cheers

Hi Ollie,

You'll probably find that the PTO shaft is 19mm (3/4 inch) and not 5/8 on these cheap replacement units as would be used on either a Briggs or Kirby power plant.

Also Chevy Orange would be the colour closest and not Chevy Red.

Cheers,
BB.

Hi Ollie

Not sure on your colour pallet but BB is correct if your staying on the lines of the original colours for the engine then Chevy Orange is the colour not the red.
As for the Baumr-AG engines I have a 2 stroke 5 in one pole saw, Hedger etc and it's not much chop, the engine goes ok but it's had little use due to the fact that the blades don't cut well and the drive shaft rods slip. The engine itself looks and feels cheap but it may be different to a four stroke 6.5hp as its most likely a Chonda copy. I would be reading up on Google for some reviews first and confirming shaft size as BB has suggested keep in mind the engine is the heart of the machine, do you think 6.5hp is a bit overkill for a 14"? And will it fit with the handle bars.

BS

Hi BB and Bon_Scott

Thanks for the input I would have not even thought about shaft size, yes you are right they have a 19mm/3/4” or larger engines a 1” shaft!
If I go down the route of a new engine think I’ll stick to a Briggs! Not a great deal more $$

Yes I knew it’s chevy orange don’t know why I wrote red think I was watching a car resto show and had it in my head!!

Hi BS and Ollie,

All those Chonda type engines are 19mm / 3/4 size PTO shafts so as such a new Clutch half will be part of the order. Now that's ok if you have to change the clutch anyway, but if you have a machine with one of the original type Cast Iron clutch halves you'd move heaven and earth no to go away from that type as they are bulletproof and never wear out unlike the cheaper Aluminium die cast units constantly do.

As far as the handle bars clashing with these engines you'll probably find you'd require a pair of the handlebar adaptor plates to be fitted at the lower end where they attach to the chassis. Regardless the handle bar would have to be adjusted so that it fully leans backwards to clear the carby.

Cheers,
BB.

That's what I thought BB, so chose wisely Ollie as it can leave you with a second hole in your pocket as we all know when doing these Reno's we all end up with a hole in one pocket bigger than we thought.

Yes it doesn't work well with my impulsive purchase nature!!! That is a hat is so good about this forum, has prob saved my a packet so far!!!
Yes would like to keep cast clutch 1/2 but the twin is alloy,
did not think to check for wear!! Whoops appeared to be good I assume they just kind of straighten/lose the taper. Will have to check before it get paint!

Also with the 2 sets of handlebars I have 1 are the straight bars that need paint and the 2nd are have the bend in lower 1/2! Polished up.
I want to put bent ones on solid but they had the straight bars!
What is the idea with the different bars my understanding was straight are earlier models therefore I assume solids would never of had bent bars! But what was the reason behind it for engine clearance with different engine or for handlebar height?

Cheers

It was done so that the Briggs engine with the larger tank can fit as only the small tank can fit on with the straight bars.

Now if you are using another engine then I would use the series II bars and that way you shouldn't have any clearance issues.

Cheers,
BB.

Ahh that makes sense, perfect will be using them on the solid then!

So I dropped in to see my parts at the Blaster’s and what a transformation! Soz pics are very rushed!!!
But he has blasted and primed the clutch cones!! Is this going to cause me a prob or will I just need to clean up and rub back bare? Or will friction sort out?
I have just been in hospital having new baby and he just got on with it without me going through what needs and what dosnt need blasting and painting!!
Cheers

So I dropped in to see my parts at the Blaster’s and what a transformation! Soz pics are very rushed!!!
But he has blasted and primed the clutch cones!! Is this going to cause me a prob or will I just need to clean up and rub back bare? Or will friction sort out?
I have just been in hospital having new baby and he just got on with it without me going through what needs and what dosnt need blasting and painting!!
Cheers

First off - congratulations on the new addition to your family.

Second - why are you posting when you have more important things to do!!

When you say "primed the clutch cones" are you saying the piece that looks like the space module below? If yes, then definitely get the primer off before you put it back together. It's protecting it right now but will be destructive to the cork if left in place. Friction will get rid of it but I fear it will clog the cork and reduce its usefulness.. You'll only have to remove the primer that would touch the cork - you can paint the rest so it all looks integrated.

Cheers,
TC.

Haha yes that piece he also blasted the cork on other side but I guess it’s lucky I left on now as I am obviously replacing it anyway!! But has left protected!!

Thanks yeah I am currently at hospital with my future bonnarfide nut asleep in my arms!!!

And thanks I was hoping it would be ok I had the thought that I would have to be splashing out on new cones!!

Cheers Ollie

Hi guys

The clutch cone has to be bare steel on the half where the cone makes contact with the cork the rest can be painted I also left the back of the cone bare metal where the thrust pad rests against so just get him to strip back the front part of the cone .
Here's some picks of mine taped up and painted.

Hi fellas well progress has slowed up due to the new addition to family who joined us sooner than expected!
But I was tinkering with the engines I have and I have noticed I have 2 different shaft sizes on I have 2 5/8 on 3hp Briggs and off my 14” solid I have a 2hp with 3/4 shaft! I thought that it was a cast clutch as was 1 was much heavier than the other! Would this mean the clutch would have been changed? They are at painters still so can’t check it out till next week!

Cheers Ollie

G'day Ollie

Yes, two different clutch centre sizes were used - to accommodate different
engine specifications.

Both, to my understanding, were die cast ... best guess.
The earlier Model 33 clutch was probably a sand casting.

Great images of the resto!

-------------------------
Jack

In regards to replacing your front roller, I have recently started manufacturing a few options. BB/Admins - please let me know if I cannot post links, etc. I’m not looking to break any rules..

Well I finally got around to getting parts back overall pretty happy with the result got to put some colour on the reel and work out what to do with rollers then the assembly once I stock take all parts!!!

Questions to follow!!

Hi Ollie,

Who did you get to do your blasting for you ? and if I may say, I noticed that you also painted the front roller frame green. Not sure if you are trying to do a faithful reproduction ? but if so the frame was originally zinc plated and wasn't ever painted until the Eagle Farm built Rovers which were then finished in black along with the reel in the same colour,

Cheers,
BB.