I don't think you can get a replacement unless you can pick up one off Gumtree/Ebay. I had a couple that I sold a year or so ago. Only other thing is to get it welded up and that isn't going to be easy to get somebody to do it as it has to be set up in a lathe to get it true. I still have one here but it has the bolt on wheels, but as is always the case postage makes things prohibitive these days
Yes they are out there Blended picked up one last week for $25, then there is the job of removing it. Nath, do you know if the Anniversary and Tractor are the same axle, from memory the drive sprocket is on opposite sides but you may be able to just flip the axle over, never tried it or measured it up
Yes you will have to remove it all, not a nice job and getting the wheels off that taper is not an easy task. At least you have the wheel with the sprocket off that can be the hard one. If you jig it up properly you can weld it and get it pretty straight, but it needs good preparation for the weld to be strong enough again. It can be done but it is not just a case of put it back together and weld it up.
I Honestly couldn't tell you norm, can't say i've ever had to swap an axle that way. My advise in removing the rears is to find a large 3 jaw gear puller, and remove the tyre so you have a clean pull at it, bit of heat from ideally an oxy/acetelyene set, then it should just pop off. As to welding it I would recommend taking it to an engineering/machining shop. I think i would be looking to have a new shaft turned up and swap the sprocket over. but you are probably still looking at $200+ to have this done.
Nath, as far as the Evolution models I have only done a small amount of work on one, just not sure what bits from those will be usable as parts start to dry up, probably not much but would be good to know
I have a tractor and an Anniversary sitting side by side. I do not have plans to dismantle the rears at this point, but i am happy to see if i can accurately provide some measurements, lengths, dia's etc?
Yup, this stage can be a problem!. The key thing here for me is to get some quite coarse emery cloth and get all the rust and paint off the shaft. The bearings are a snug slip fit and any rust or paint will stop them sliding. Heat from a hot air gun on the bearing may help-and of course liberal use of the penetrating oil of your choice. That said I’ve often resorted to surgical techniques. The bearings and flangettes are dirt cheap and not worth trying to save and if fact it’s wise to replace them anyway when the opportunity arises. The key here is to butcher the bearing and not any other bits you are trying to use
Fatigue failure of the shaft at the sprocket is not new. A couple of my donors have shafts broken in the same place. Obviously there is a concentration of load there and the axle metallurgy has been altered by the welding but I wonder if there are other contributing factors such as the axle being bent at some time in the past or the axle not being adjusted true (square) for an extended period.
I’m not sure i can advocate a welded repair as a long term solution without some sort of flanged repair sleeve or the like. Problem with that is the close proximity of the bearing. I have thought about using a 1†bearing, turning a step in the axle, sliding on a fairly long flanged bush so it stays true when welding etc, etc,......much easier to get a replacement if you can.
thank you for the reply..bearings are not moving scrub screw removed..I don't really want to belt the whodanger out of the shaft itself..were can I get replacement bearings?
From memory on one I put back together I used standard 1 inch sealed bearings, they didn't fit in the bearing carriers as well as the original did but it seemed to work ok.
Not sure what facilities you have but I would make up a 1/4 inch thick washer maybe 2 inches in diameter to slip over the shaft so that when you weld the axle back together after beveling the end of the axle so you can get plenty of weld inside. Then grind the weld back so the washer can slip over the shaft and butt up hard against the sprocket. Then you can weld the washer to the sprocket and also to the axle. Just make sure before you fit the washer you will still have clearance between the bearing and washer. Just take it slowly so you don't get too much heat distortion
22mm is near as dammit to 7/8†- which is what they are.
The larger HP HD’s were 1†(thanks to Nath for that bit of very useful information) and some of the anniversaries and beyond were 1†(?).
Perhaps a 1†shaft would have prevented the kind of failure that you experienced, dontknowitall. That said, it did last something in the order of 30 years so I guess we have little right to complain.
