OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums General Discussion Forum Off Topics Briggs & Stratton Dominance.

Tyler, I did a straight fueled FC 2 stroke a couple of weeks ago, Another barrel and piston, gave the bore a hone, new rings and it ran fine. I told the bloke I couldn't tell how the bottom end would hold up but that it was worth the gamble. He went away happy but the number of full crank barrels you can rat are getting in short supply.

Unfortunately it was battered. As you mentioned, it would have needed new rings, hone, maybe a new piston as the scoring was pretty deep. Pulling the engine over, the bearings sounded reasonably healthy.
Then, it would need a new fuel tank, cowl (both cracked), new snorkel (split), back of carby, and there were a few stress cracks in the alloy deck, and one larger rock impact at the side discharge.

At mower shop prices, just not worth it. The guy was going to take it home and have a go at it. He was keen to stick with a 2 stroke as he said he's never had anything that knocks through the grass like that 24.

What do you use to hone with NormK? Are those three sides spring loaded stones mounted on a drill ok or do you use and recommend more specialised equipment?
Yeah, I imagine the bottom end would most likely be out of the woods as the piston seizes before the bearings suffer damage.

Tyler, the 24 is my favorite mower, they will tackle anything. Yes I just use a 3 sided hone with 75mm stones so they don't drop into the ports in the barrel. I don't bother with the barrel if the scoring is deep, that will require a rebore and new o/s piston and that becomes cost prohibitive. He would be much better scratching around and picking up another FC mower and pull the motor off that. They still turn up on ebay etc for a few dollars. I sold 15 FC mowers last year for $10 each to a member here.

Thats what I suggested to him (talked with him for a few minutes) - either rebuild as a learning curve, or buy a running (or at least not scored) FC with electronic ignition (his had points) and put that on.
I wasn't sure about the belt pulley, as I have never worked on a 24, but it shouldn't have posed too many problems.
He seemed keen to have a go, hopefully its going alright.

Is there any difference between engines on regular Victa's and the 24, or is it an identical motor?

Tyler the motors are the same you just swap the pulley over. The other interesting thing is that the pulley on a Briggs on a 24 also just fits straight onto a FC motor, I was expecting problems with the first one I converted but it was a straight swap, couldn't believe my luck. Also doesn't matter if it is a points motor, just put an ignition module on it and you have electronic ignition

Norm, will a PT module fit a FC? I remember seeing something on here recently, but can't remember the result.

Yes Tyler it will, they fit better because they are smaller. I fit them on top of the plate so that they get air flow over it, not sure if it helps but can't do any harm. All you have to do is cut the kill switch wire that comes out of the crankcase and connect the module to that, just leave the points and condenser in there, saves having to remove the flywheel

Won't the points still be operating or is it ok for the module to work together with the now redundant points ignition?
Have you noticed a significantly higher failure rate of modules on side pull full cranks compared to powertorque engine?

No idea MF, I have done a few that way and they work fine. I think the PT modules might last longer because they were fitted down low on the motor where the fan helped keep it cool as opposed to the FC's ," oh I think we will put this electronic device on the underside of the plate, directly above the barrel where most of the heat gets trapped with no air flow over it", Not the best of ideas, as far as we are concerned, but as they got past the warranty period that was all Victa had to achieve

Thanks Norm, I have to get around to fixing a FC side pull Commando (already has EI standard). I have a spare PT module in the spares cupboard, so I will fit that.

Thanks again
Tyler

Might want to clarify this. You are wanting to disable the point system by disconnecting it. You can the points in place; unless, you have the cap off pin for the points push pin. You will still need the kill switch connected if you wish for it the kill the engine when needed.

Not sure what you mean there AVB, with these the coil is inside the flywheel so to avoid removing it, where the wire comes out of the crankcase (this wire goes to the kill switch), just cut this wire, connect this wire to the module and also run another wire from this point to the kill switch. The points and condenser inside become redundant and can just be left there

Hmmm Let me ask this then isn't the points and condenser located under the flywheel too?. My understanding points/condenser systems is that points are use to trigger the coil. If using a Nova II or Atom ignitor you want break the circuit between the points/condenser and coil. Once ignitor is attached to the coil the magnetic pulse in the coil's primary winding trigger the module. Having both the ignitor and points/condenser working at the same time could have some unintended operations.

Of course I haven't the FC engine setup so points/condenser maybe outside the flywheel.

Hi AVB, I have only done this module conversion if there is no stark so obviously either the points or condenser has failed, so there is no interference from the original ignition.Not sure how it works but it does. Points and condenser are inside the flyeheel

Norm, Here is the instructions for the universal version of the ignitor. There are some out there that only as either negative ground or positive ground with most being negative ground.

Hi AVB, the modules we are playing with are only single terminal so I assume they are negative earth. In the diagram it shows cutting the wire and therefore isolating the points/condenser, but with what I have been working on to cut that wire involves removing the flywheel, that involves drilling and tapping the flywheel to fit the puller. I tried just cutting the kill switch wire and connecting the module to that wire and it works fine. I have done several like that now and they work perfectly

Can't argue with what works. Just remember if you run a cross a old cast iron block Briggs that need a module they are positive ground systems.

AVB with the Briggs I would not bother fitting a module, just much easier to fit a later coil and problem solved

That the problem Norm the old cast iron block will not work with with the newer Magnetron ignition coils as the coils are negative ground. The flywheel magnet poles are reversed on these old cast iron block engines. Now most of the newer Briggs with aluminum blocks are negative ground with why the newer Magnetron coils work fine.

When I refer to cast iron block it is the same as crankcase. It not the same as the IC cast iron sleeved cylinders.