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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 147
Likes: 8
Apprentice level 2
Hi Norm,

I've fixed a few mowers, mostly minor carby/pull-start/throttle/plug issues, so although it's frustrating I like the troubleshooting aspect and this is giving me a nice list to work off in the future smile Also I'm planning on giving this mower to my brother, so I don't mind if the cost escalates a little, I get something out of it either way smile

My first thought is the previous owner probably hit something with the blade holder hard enough to possibly make the mower stop dead in its' tracks, which could have damaged the bearings. I haven't inspected the blade holder yet for such damage, just an initial thought.

I'll check the movement of the crankpin/blade assembly and let you know what I find.

I would be more inclined to say the crankpin would be OK because if it were bent, even with no compression I should have more issues getting the engine to fire and the plug to spark shouldn't I?

What I can try to do to test/observe this is spin the engine slowly (Even without disassembling it) and try to view the movement of the flywheel. If the flywheel gap isn't changing while spinning the engine from the blade plate (To try to avoid pressure on the bearings) and the plug out (No pressure from the top), the crankpin should be OK.

I confess I'm kinda excited to take one of these completely apart, I've never had to before. But considering I am, I'd like to get rid of the rust on the block and paint it haha. That's one thing I've never liked about the block, I hate looking at a rusty block/muffler (OCD, can't help it haha).

More updates to come!!

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,121
Likes: 231
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
These motors are so tough but run on straight petrol soon damages them and if the main bearing have been damaged enough to allow the flywheel to touch the coil(i doubt this could happen) but if this is the case then the crank pin would also be damaged (not bent but the hardening damaged) and I have not seen new crank pins for sale, they may be but if you have to rebore,if you can still find somebody who can do it, small bore rebore places are thin on the ground now,new piston ,rings and bearings ,this motor will end up an expensive rebuild. As I said earlier pick up another mower for $15/20 and good chance you could get a good motor

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I'm kicking myself for not taking the buy it now mower for $20 with rotten base, but with fully functional motor and good wheels, which was in a convenient location on a route I regular drive. Grrr!


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
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G'day Norm et al,
Originally Posted by NormK
These motors are so tough but run on straight petrol soon damages them and if the main bearing have been damaged enough to allow the flywheel to touch the coil(i doubt this could happen) but if this is the case then the crank pin would also be damaged (not bent but the hardening damaged) and I have not seen new crank pins for sale, they may be but if you have to rebore,if you can still find somebody who can do it, small bore rebore places are thin on the ground now,new piston ,rings and bearings ,this motor will end up an expensive rebuild.
New OEM crankpins are available, ~$52, but you'd also need to make or buy [cringe] the special tool required to remove/fit it.

PowerTorque exchange rebored cylinders are available to the trade from GA Spares, and seem to run around $115 retail, including piston kit. These do need final cleaning before use; but that was the way Victa used to supply factory rebored barrels too!

There is however a $100 deposit/surcharge, if you don't supply a usable exchange core; i.e. it can't be already at max bore oversize, or have other damage that makes it permanently unserviceable.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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