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#91761 17/06/18 05:03 PM
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Novice
Hi Everyone.

This is my first post here. The forums have already been a wealth of knowledge on my mower journey. I recently purchased a 16 inch victa imperial which I am in the process of restoring. I have been slowly been dismantling the mower but have hit a few road blocks. Would anyone have any insight on how i remove the centrifugal clutch from the engine output shaft? I would like to paint the frame but cannot remove the engine because of this.

On a second point, I am in Brisbane but have had no luck finding anyone who actually sharpens the cylinder and bedknife on these units. Could anyone steer me in the right direction of someone who can help? Seems most shops only want to deal with scottys/rovers.

Thanks for any help you can offer.


Jed
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Hello jeshe0

A warm welcome from me.

I guess we have to identify what version of the 16 Imperial you have.
The two-strokes have a tapered output shaft; the four-strokes a straight PTO shaft.
The two-strokes clutch body released by a solid tap; the four-strokes with a three arm puller.

Sharpening and setting is increasingly problematic.
The trick is to avoid agencies. Go direct to the person who has the equipment.

Good advice on these forums over the years says that a visit to the local bowling club
or golf club may reap rewards - where do they go to in your area? ...

The other issue is whether a new bottom blade can be made.
Some companies can do this!

Please keep us informed as to progress.
I am concerned about the repair options on these old machines.

Hope this helps.
----------------------------------
Jack

Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Novice
Hi Jack and thank you for your reply.

I should have specified that I have the 2 stroke version. I have attached a photo of someone elses mower but mine is the same one. I spoke to a person who has completed a restoration on one of these machines and he told me there would be a grub screw holding the two parts of the centrifugal clutch together. I have had a look but it looks like someone may have taken this apart once before and used a bolt that i could swear is welded in. I may be stuck with trying to remove the whole engine and clutch in one piece ( if i can remove the sprocket off the shaft)

[Linked Image]


Jed
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Hello jeshe0

I can't say I understand this at all.
The 4-stroke appears to have had two types of centrifugal clutches.
The 2-stroke had just one design.

My parts list in the Imperial record do not show the two-stroke chassis.
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=72729

The parts list (below) for a 2-stroke shows no grub screw.
By unbolting the engine mount brackets from the chassis, the engine and clutch
flywheel should separate from the clutch drum and its output shaft. There is
no grub screw in the parts list I have.

The clutch flywheel and shoes should be released from the engine by removing
the clutch flywheel nut. Being on a taper, a simple mallet knock should release
the clutch flywheel from the engine.

Hope this helps.
------------------------------
Jack

Attachments
full-5013-7311-imp9.jpg (38.49 KB, 99 downloads)
full-5013-7312-imp10.jpg (62.86 KB, 101 downloads)
full-5742-20586-spacer.jpg (133.38 KB, 101 downloads)
full-5742-20588-spacer3.jpg (130.22 KB, 100 downloads)
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Novice
Thanks for the detailed reply. That is where I have gone wrong. I was looking at the 4 stroke chassis pdf. Unfortunately, I still cannot separate the flywheel from the clutch drum. Will have to get outside again tomorrow and give it another go. I'm guessing its possible that something inside might need a little more persuasion to get the parts separated.

Cheers


Jed
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Quote
Unfortunately, I still cannot separate the flywheel from the clutch drum.
G'day
I feel this will be solely due to a transitional fit between the output shaft (LH) and its
mating with a ballrace in the clutch flywhhel (RH).

A tap with a mallet or softwood and hammer as you pull back on the engine
should do it.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers
-----------------------
Jack

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,215
Likes: 235
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
You may even need to make up a puller to get tension on it and the give the centre bolt of your puller a decent tap and it should pop off

Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Novice
Well i had some success today. I managed to remove the motor with a decent hammer hit and some pulling pressure. I also removed the rear roller. The second part was fairly difficult since I cannot remove the spindle on the clutch plate and sprocket. I see in the manual for the 4 stroke that there is a clutch spanner tool but i cannot find anything similar to it at the shops. Tried using some tools I already have but couldn't get enough torque on the spindle. Am I right in assume its a L/H thread like the drive sprockets?

Thanks again


Jed
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Quote
The second part was fairly difficult since I cannot remove the spindle on the clutch plate and sprocket. I see in the manual for the 4 stroke that there is a clutch spanner tool but i cannot find anything similar to it at the shops. Tried using some tools I already have but couldn't get enough torque on the spindle. Am I right in assume its a L/H thread like the drive sprockets?
G'day Jesheo and Norm,

The clutch spanner, these days, is pretty much made to mimic a service tool.
Release of the clutch spindle was covered in Victa Service Guide Number 57.
Yes, a LH thread.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/58949/VICTA_SERVICE_GUIDES_-_1960s.html

Hope this helps.
------------------------------
Jack

Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5
Novice
Thanks for the reply Jack. I completely missed the thread that you just posted. Might have been able to answer my own questions without wasting your time if I did.

Cheers


Jed
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Quote
Thanks for the reply Jack. I completely missed the thread that you just posted. Might have been able to answer my own questions without wasting your time if I did.
G'day Jesh
Not at all. No waste of time.

It's such a silly thing - LH threads.
They were the new kid on the block in olden days.

Engineers quickly saw a way around the nonsense.

Today, they don't make a lot of sense, at least to me.
They're like faucet taps that work in the opposite direction!
It's just wrong! mad

Thank God/Allah for keys and key-ways, and better designs.
The RH thread is the only logical thread today.

It's a legacy thread direction.
I do understand, though, that some countries drive on the wrong side.

Please keep us informed.
---------------------------------------------
Jack


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