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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hi Mowerfreak, I'm not sure how this Forum works, as I can see [Re: NormK] as a reply, sent to: so I'm not sure if you also have seen this update. Hopefully you also have now received my latest update. I still need some assistance. Kind regards Sherrie

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Sherrie, bit hard but looking at the pic I believe you have to remove the steel split washer then the plastic gear should just slide off, behind that is the oil pump and the 2 hoses will be connected to the pump, one comes from the oil tank and the other is directed at the chain

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Good morning NormK, do I prise off (lever off) the split washer so that it comes up and away from the round metal shaft, or do I use a hammer to tap off the split washer, by hitting it from the direction of the split so that it comes of maybe sideways ? Thanks for your reply

Last edited by Sherrie; 22/04/18 07:45 AM.
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
NormK, I've just taken another photo of the split washer, and with the photo being so close up, I can now see that this has to be prised up in the same direction of the shaft. I'll have a go at removing the split washer now.

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hi Mowerfreak, I've had an interesting day, so great with the Oil Tube, but then another issue. I would appreciate your reply. Kind regard, Sherrie

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hello NormK and Mowerfreak, Well, after trying with several tools to prise off the split washer, it wasn�t going to move. I�ve got an old Dawn Vice that belonged to my, dear dad. Holding the Chainsaw the edge of the split washer was secured between the jaws of the Vice and slowly it came off the shaft after using a back and forward pulling motion, so that�s some good news. The next was the Oil Bottle Tubing, got that all sorted out, and I�m now thinking this is going really well. I reassembled the Drive Sprocket (Googled removal of split washer, nothing found, then I spotted a Drive Sprocket � now I know what that�s called). I then placed the outer cover/casing back onto the Chainsaw, but it wasn�t sitting correctly. Removing cover a few times, I couldn�t see why the cover wasn�t sitting in place correctly, then the thin steel rod that runs from the hand trigger to the safety handle dropped out of the hole, it�s supposed to sit in, it now get worse, as this then released the pressure on the Brake Handle, the spring (a very strong spring) drops out and the mechanism, is now in more dismantled pieces. Thank goodness for Photos, at least I know where things go, but now I can�t get that spring back into place as everything relies on the tension of the spring and the other metal components to ensure the Brake Handle works. The Chainsaw Spring sits in plastic mould that slots into metal pronged component (Gallery Photo, Yellow line indicates where the Spring has to sit). Yellow indicates where Spring sits, colour Aqua, indicates metal posts, where other metal components slot into. These metal posts are removable, but this hasn�t helped with the �spring, tension factor.
Next weekend is coming up, just ran out of time this weekend, but I would appreciate your input as I don�t now how anyone could have the strength of get all these parts back together again when such tension is required. P.S... yep, I�ve got the photos for you. Oh, this has been, an all day event today, and I need your help and advice again. Kindest regards, Sherrie

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hi NormK, I've got an update, with photos. I would appreciate your reply. Kind regards, Sherrie

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hello AVR, I'm hoping that you are being updated with the progress of our Electric Chainsaw. The reason, I say this, is because I don't know when I sent a Reply, it's reaching the wonderful people that have helped me: eg: NormK, Mowerfreak and obviously yourself. Just making sure that you know that I sincerely appreciate your time and the information you have given. Kind regards, Sherrie

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,525
Likes: 23
AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Actually I have it off on this end as I trying to keep my inbox a little less cluttered as I work many forums but I do visit fair often.

I must you credit where credit is due as many of us go through the same things on some repairs where there is absolutely no service manuals or even an IPL (part illustrations) to go by. Some are just like a gaint jigsaw puzzle that the picture is missing for. It takes a lot patience so if you get stuck or find yourself getting confused just put back for a while and go do something different. A lot times this works well as I re-approach things with a clearer mind later. I even slap myself for over looking something should been obvious the first time around.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Sherrie, very hard to work out just looking at pics. Is the spring sitting in its correct position, looks like it might be.

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hi AVB, I don't have any emails coming in, the same as you, as I prefer to Log in to this amazing Forum. Thanks for your support, and for reading my last message, I know exactly what you are talking about, as sometimes things become a little clearer after a person walks away and has a break, but this hasn't happened in this situation, at this stage, but there has to be an answer. I've been typing an updated explanation that hopefully will help Forum Members in what I'm trying to convey. I appreciated your support, and I smiled when I read it, as I knew exactly what you are talking about. Kind regards, Sherrie

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
Hi NormK, Yep... in the photo most of the components are correctly in place, but the Spring is not in place, and I can�t get that spring sitting where it should sit. There are three (3) situations relating to this issue. Firstly (1) The Spring has to sit within the plastic mould (as per photo), the other end of that spring has to slot into the metal pronged component. This same component has a hole that has to drop/be placed over the metal post (colour Aqua in photo), the metal post is sitting upright in the plastic moulding of the Chainsaw. Second: (2) That same metal component at the other end has to slot into another strip like, flat piece of metal which twists around another component to create a spring recoil effect). Thirdly (3) the metal strip that leads to the Handle, has a hole in it and this has to be slotted into the the other metal post (also coloured Aqua in photo) that is also sitting upright in the plastic moulding of the Chainsaw. At this stage, everything has such tension, that it�s impossible for me to have all these components installed to enable the Brake Handle to work correctly as mentioned. The photos I�ve taken, and this explanation may help further. I�ve tried my best to try to explain the situation and the photos, hopefully will help. The Yellow dots/lines on the photos are where the spring should be placed. Again, NormK, Mowerfreak and AVB, your support and replies would be appreciated. Kind regards, Sherrie

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 74
Trainee
I wish to thank all that have helped me with the situation regarding the Oil Tube issue, but now I�ve encountered another problem. I�ll now created a new forum question regarding this issue that relates to the Internal Hand Brake assembly. Oh..... If you can give give me some advise on the latest event, that would be wonderful.

I have sincerely, appreciated your time and your knowledge. I�m, obviously not involved in anything like this field, but I�m the same, as you wonderful people, I do pass on, any information that will help other people. We are all working together to ensure someone has knowledge that will help them in the future� and I thank you. Kindest regards, Sherrie

Last edited by Sherrie; 24/04/18 10:25 PM.
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