OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Scott Bonnar 45 help required

Hi i have just bought a Scott bonnar 45. its a bit ruff but i am willing to do some work on it.
Need help with what needs to be repaired to get it running the way it should,(it does run at the moment ) and the i can take care of the rest cosmetic stuff later.

Issue i have found so far , just off the motor there is a cone piece that has a small crack in it. wondering if this needs to be replaced or just leave it for now. also inside this there is a bearing that doesn't to good. sound s a bit like metal on metal photos attached. if i need his bearing and cone piece where do i get them form. sorry if terminology are incorrect.

Also a crack in the mount on one of the bolt mount under the motor photo attached, wondering what has caused this. I am assuming the motor vibration but is it something not running correctly to cause more vibration then it should? i was planning on welding a square plate under the motor to join the to bars together to strengthen. Is this the correct way to go about it?

also the self propelled drive is running all the time.i assume i need to loosen off the gear cog?

also can some one please have a look at the condition of the chains and gear cogs. they were a bit rusted i gave them a clean up and chain lubbed them.

Please let me know what parts i need to put in for now. Hoping to restore back to its former glory .

Thanks in advance.

also have found the reel bearings need replacing. does any one have a code for these.

thanks

RLS5 for the Reel Bearings.

Hi JAP,

Well what you have there is one of the very last Model 45's that was assembled in Adelaide before production ceased. It has had an engine change at some stage by a previous tenant.

From where I'm seeing it it has had a flogged clutch attached to it for way too long thus why the chassis rail has completely failed.

Check out the following thread of how to best repair it and read the dialogue between Member "Grumpy" and myself.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/66172/scott-bonnar-45-rebuild.html

All the gears look ok but I don't know how much tension there is on the Land Roll drive chain to the rear drum behind the land roll clutch which you say is on all of the time. If it's tight it must have a small amount of chain deflection.

The Primary clutch body that's attached to the engine via the PTO shaft is cracked and must be replaced. No question about this at all.

I wouldn't weld a plate between the rails even though some years ago I thought this to be the way to go but if the "Gusset Repair Method" is applied you won't require anything more. BTW after the gussets are welded in place make sure that the nuts are also tacked into the gusset and then groove out the cracks in the top side of the rail and mig weld the cracks to add strength back into the mounting surface. Ensure that the top surface is ground back to total flat so that the engine mounts squarely and securely to the two chassis rails.

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks Bonnar bloke.

Do you have any threads or part numbers for replacing the cracked clutch body? I'm assuming that I just buy the the part that is cracked unscrew and replace?



Thanks

Hi, sorry i have read your link thanks.

I will strip it back and get it ready to be welded using the gusset method.

From there am I best to just mount a new motor on and that will fix the clutch issue? or do I just replace that cracked cone piece in the photo previously (also what is the correct name for that cone piece PTO? . sorry I am still a bit lost on that one.

Thanks for the help and patience.

Hi Jap,

It is simply known as a "Clutch Body" and it is slid over the PTO (Power Take Off) shaft. It has a piece of square sectioned key steel to stop the body slipping on the shaft and grub screw to lock it on. Sadly the screws are not kept tight during in service life and the body becomes loose and being die cast ally it will wear quickly opposed to the steel PTO shaft.

You'll probably require a 3 leg puller to remove the old body off the shaft.

The following link is exactly what you'll require to purchase. You can find these parts in our online shop also. This is the complete clutch half with grub screws, thrust bearing and also a new piece of key steel.

BTW it's the 5/8 unit you'll require and not the 3/4 inch shaft sized body which is more commonly fitted to most of the much later Asian type engines with a 19mm output shaft (PTO)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-8-clutch-body-bearing-2-x-screws-1-x-shaft-key-scott-bonnar-and-rover-45/132535182941?hash=item1edbb6665d:g:vjsAAOSw~3pabTGi


Cheers,
BB.

Thanks BB, this looks like the opposite side of the clutch body that has a crack in it. i will try find the other side as well and replace both at the same time.

Once this is done there is no further urgent repairs? Would you also swap the motor out or leave as is?

Also is there any point buying a new spring for inside the clutch body.

I am going to buy a 3 legged puller tomorrow so i can get the reel off and get it sharpened.

Thanks again