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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,210 Likes: 234
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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This is way off topic in here but I re-built a trailer for a mate a couple of years ago and it had a fancy tow coupling on it when I bought the rusted out trailer but it is a 2" coupling not a 50mm. This is probably the only place I know of that somebody might have a 2" tow ball gathering dust on a shelf
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842 Likes: 14
Moderator
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Norm, how much of a hurry are you in? I'd be pretty sure my old man would have one, but I'll need to get up to Yarrawonga, to find out for sure.
Hoping to do so sometime before the end of this month, but sciatica is giving me hell ATM, and long road trips aren't good for that.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,210 Likes: 234
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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Hi Gadge, no rush, he doesn't use it that much but a few days ago he took it into Ballarat and the rattle reminded him. Sorry about your sciatica, it is a most debilitating pain with no escape. Take it easy an don't stress about the ball
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 693
Qualified Senior
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You should be able to adjust out the rattle, it's only 0.8mm difference. That's assuming it is a coupling type that has the adjuster on it of course.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,210 Likes: 234
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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Thanks Trev, It doesn't have an adjuster on it, I might just put a small bit of weld on the inside of the locking mechanism, doesn't need much as you say.8mm
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 693
Qualified Senior
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Some couplings that don't have the separate adjuster actually have it built into the release handle. Check if it has a grub screw on there. If it does, you adjust the release by screwing the handle down on the shaft.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,210 Likes: 234
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
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Trev, if when I had built it I had set the wheels back a couple of hundred mm it would tip it slightly forward with a bit more weight on the ball but the way it is it is right on the balance point. When I build these rusted out ones I just run the grinder around the base, coming up 50/70mm so where I cut is above the rust in the sides. The guards remain attached so when I build the new chassis I put the wheels back in the original position and everything should fit
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