OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Another Qualcast P1 restoration

Hi Bob,
My mower is running now, just wondering what the number of the belt is? Normally the number is the diameter or circumference of the belt. Thanks :-) I have no belt as a sample.

Hi Paul and well done on getting your motor running. The pulley belt I got was an A21. Hopefully that's the same size that LawnDownUnder bought otherwise one of us has a minor problem!

G'day Bob, Paul and LDU
It is a real treat for members to see restorations and restoration
approaches on this great machine.

I must say, I like Paul's approach of 'sorting' the machine before painting;
particularly with these idiosyncratic suction carbies. [I say that as
a total amateur though].

I have a technical question...
Bob has given us a belt profile and size - A21.
I note that the carrier for the drive is slotted - for adjustment.
My question is: did Qualcast intend this to be an adjuster for the
chain tension - rather than the belt?

Many thanks gents for an entertaining and informative post.
I appreciate Paul's input on the carby - it is temperamental, but
it can be sorted I guess is Paul's message.

p.s. I remember using one of these as a teenager. It had a white canvas
catcher. The mower required a certain 'technique' - with precision
choice of the engagement lever. Once mastered, it was a pleasure to
use. Didn't idle that well ...

---------------------
Jack

Good morning all,
Thanks for the belt number Bob, with regards to the belt and chain adjustment. The engine mount frames are slotted as well so I think between the two both chain and belt can be adjusted, I guess when no adjustment is left its time for a new chain and or belt.

One step forward and two steps back. I fitted up the rollers as well as some other bits and pieces today. When I look at the mower it seems to sit way too far forward. I'm wondering if I've got the roller dimensions wrong. I went with 66mm diameter. Are there any members out there who could measure an original set for me? If necessary I'll take them off and turn them down some more.
I'm also wondering if anyone knows where I could buy some new handgrips. The bar diameter is 19mm. Thanks.

Hi Bob,
I have one that is left round so I will measure it for you in the morning.

Hi Bob,
I measured the best one of mine and I have 51mm, if you allow for wear perhaps try 55mm and then reduce it down if needed.

Done just about all I can on the frame, now it's time to start on the engine. The engine surprisingly had reasonable compression and good spark so I won't be going over the top with reconditioning.
I pulled the barrel off and now have it in an electrolysis bath to clean up the rust and paint residue. The engine cases cleaned up reasonably well. A little more detailing and I'll call them done. The bore, piston and rings look fine to my untrained eye.
The flywheel is badly corroded so it will also need some elbow grease to get it back in shape.

G'day CB and Paul

I really love the last photo - the way the c/shaft aligns with the
floral centre . Also, the matching of the green tones: Brilliant!
[Art incorporating steel, iron, alloy, wood and fabric in a nice composition.]

I would like expert input on subjecting the barrel to electrolysis.
I guess this means a hone of the bore afterwards ...?

Also, because this machine only has 'reasonable compression', I wonder
whether specification should be checked and new rings installed. I say
that because this particular model relies on a sound short motor to
make the carburettion system work effectively.

Cheers
-------------------
Jack

Thanks for the compliments on the photo Jack. If it turned out arty I can assure you it's totally accidental. I'm afraid creativity is not one of my strong points!
I'm interested to see if anyone sees a problem with dunking the barrel in the electrolysis bath. I'm thinking the bore won't be affected because it was still oiled up and there is zero rust in there. I thought that electrolysis only worked on rusted surfaces???
New rings would be easy. Do you know where I might be able to buy some?

Hi Bob and Jack,

Not sure about the effects of the bath on the cylinder surface, rings and gaskets may be available from 2 sources locally

John at Rustic Spares. rusticspares.com.au

Stephen at Vintage Air Cooled Engine Spares vaces.com.au

Hope this helps

Got carried away cleaning up the flywheel. I spun it in the lathe and dressed it with WD40 and sandpaper ranging from 80 grit up to 400 grit then spent some time on the polishing mop. Not original I know but I'm sure it will dull off soon enough. It started out looking like the other flywheel in the photo so I'm happy with the improvement.
Thanks Paul for the contacts. I have new rings on order so that should help with compression when the time comes to put it back together.

wow thats awesome

Looks great, who is supplying your parts?

I'm getting the rings from Vintage Air Cooled Engine Spares. I've laser cut the gaskets I need so will try those before I buy a kit.

It might etch the bore slightly; depends on what current is run, and how long it's left in the bath. Your query has sent me off looking at scientific papers relevant to this type of electrolysis...

I get the impression that there are both direct electrochemical [reduction of rust from Fe203, but not all the way to Iron metal] and physical [from Oxygen gas generation on the workpiece/cathode surface] processes in play here. The gas bubbles will physically loosen the rust from the surface.

This gas generation occurs over the entire surface of the workpiece, but not uniformly - the closest bits to the anode will have the highest rate.

G'day all
Many thanks to GM Gadge for investigating electrolysis on engine cylinders.
I know many restorers use bead blasting for this. I guess I asked a serious
question - about electrolysis and its effect on machined surfaces without rust.

The main issue with the Villiers 4G (with suction feed) appears to be the
desire of a sound engine to make the carburettion work.

Having said that, Carinabob has produces another great photo, this time
a sort of before-after-shot of the flywheel.

It may be 'over-restoration' but, as CB says, the finish will dull off.
It looks good to me!

Just imagine that beautiful light green - that accentuates the detail of
this complex machine - being reflected in this beautiful flywheel finish!

This is a great story and many thanks to all participants.

-----------------------
Jack

G'day folks,
CarinaBob, there are clear spray coatings made, for use on polished alloy motorcycle engine parts, around that would work well on that flywheel.

Soda blasting sees a lot of use on alloy parts these days, as it's not as harsh as beads, and doesn't leave beads lodged in blind holes and crannies.
The piston aero engine rebuild industry still uses bead blasting, but there's a lot of meticulous after-blast handwork involved in ensuring that absolutely no beads remain in the components.

Thanks all for the replays re the electrolysis. I checked the cylinder today and there doesn't appear to be any damage. My bath runs off a 12v battery that is charged by a couple of solar panels on my shed. I don't have a multimeter so I can't tell what the current draw is but judging by the small amount of bubbling in the bath I would say it's fairly low. There was much more activity when I had the reel in the bath.
Thanks also for the tip on coating the flywheel. I'll see how it goes and if it just needs a quick polish every now and then I'll go with that.

Starting to look like a mower again. Lots of paint touchup to do but almost there I think. Later next week I'll connect up the throttle cable and fuel line, throw some fuel in the tank and see what happens. I fitted new rings so the compression is good now.

Hi Bob,

Looks great, how did you get on with the rollers?

I haven't adjusted the rollers. When I looked at them again I decided to run them at 66mm diameter as I thought the stance of the machine looked OK. It's unlikely but if I want to mow grass with the machine I may need to re-think. Did you still want rollers turned? If you want some, send me the exact measurements you want and I'll see what I can do.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the offer of turning the rollers, I will measure the length of mine tomorrow. Do you have a healthy spark from your magneto?

Yes I have good hot spark. Didn't do a thing to it except replace the plug lead. I'm surprised the coil is still good after so long. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Hi Bob,

I didn't get to the shed today due to the heat, I will get there tomorrow.

Hi Bob,
If you can make me a set the same length as your ones but at 60mm diameter that would be great. Thanks very much, did you find some grips?

Haven't found any grips yet. As a temporary thing I bought a length of that foam insulation for copper pipes from Bunnings. Some short lengths of that will get me out of trouble for a while. I'm not working Thursday so I was thinking I might try to run up the engine then. I'll let you know how I go with the rollers. They will have a 12mm hole for the axle and I'll leave them bare timber so you can finish them however you like.

Hi CB and Paul

This is such a great topic posting!
The light green really shows the detail.

The original hand grips probably were these.
I guess you're after a simple design?



--------------------
Jack

That's the one Jack. I have some of those but in very poor condition.
I'll keep my eyes peeled and hopefully some will turn up.

Started her up today and she ran like a top - well like an oily top! After spending quite a long time cleaning up the mess I remembered why this will be a static display mower!
Anyhow it's been a lot of fun and thanks to all who have helped along the way and to those who have followed the restoration. The old girl is not perfect by any means and the restoration is not in the same league as some I've seen on this site but hopefully a little bit of history has been brought back to life.