OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Just another SB45 resto...

Hi guys,

So I've decided my son plays a little too much Playstation and thus have decided to get something we can both work on.

I'm not ready to do a vehicle resto with him so the next best choice was a reel mower.

We picked up this little fella in working condition just the other day for an ok price...considering we are in Perth, WA.


Plan of attack:
1. consult ODK
2. check motor mount points
3. strip/clean/prep
4. change bearings and anything else that requires it
5. paint
6. new Chonda/Honda depending on the hip pocket after Xmas.
7. get my son to mow all the lawns......
8. drink beers

anything I've missed?

After doing a bit of an inspection, to the untrained eye the only issue i can see is this?
I guess a previous owner drove the sucker over some rocks.....



oh and i figured out the image situation....

welcome to the forum dee bee
what you have is common fault with reel blades getting bent from hitting rocks sticks ect
you can do this your self its easy to fix just tap the bent blade back into line with a hammer .
it wont take much to get it straight again

plenty of people here to help you

Hi Dee Bee,

Well that's one of the early made "Eagle Farm" Scott Bonnar's after Rover closed the Holland Street Thebarton Factory in Adelaide the previous year. Your mower was assembled in early (March) 1984 with the Engine being made on the 6th of December 1983 over in the US of A.

It's a rather interesting example as the ID plate is of the first batch of green metal plates that doesn't refer to Brisbane as the city of manufacture. The later ones do, before they changed to silver foil style ID stickers. Also this mower shows evidence that they had not commissioned their new state of the art "Powder Coating line" yet which introduced the Kermit Green coloured Rovers. So the Eagle Farm factory was still shooting Hammertone Enamel paint which was now a different colour than what was used in Adelaide (Apple Green)even though the 1984 Range of mowers brochure still showed the Apple Green colour as being current.

Obviously the Model 45 wasn't high on Rover's priority list of things to update, including the marketing strategy.

Anyway getting back on task, this particular mower shows moderate signs of wear as the Engine side clutch half has already been changed at some earlier point in time and the cutter sprocket also shows advanced signs of wear which means it's done some serious work.

I would initially lift and remove the engine and check for stress fractures before going any further, but before doing that I would evaluate the engine itself and get it running smoothly then proceed with the strip down. Can you please supply some really good close up photos of the rails where the engine mounting bolts attach the engine to the frame, this way we can evaluate what needs to be done, if anything.

Apart from that your plan of attack seems to be rather spot on for the mower, now how about the the lawn ?

Cheers,
BB.

Hello Mod BB and Dee Bee

I do feel this post and BB's observations have increased our knowledge
about this time when production was moved from Adelaide to Brisbane.

There is now evidence (in matching the Briggs Code) that Rover
originally painted the first Rover 45s in hammertone - and a darker tone
from the last Adelaide machines too.

I'm less sure the worn cutter sprocket necessarily means 'serious work';
given the good condition of the other sprockets. It may be that was a
result of poor maintenance of primary chain tension. That seems to be a common
problem with manual chain tensioners: too loose and the sprocket wears; too
tight and the bearings wear...

This will be an interesting one to follow, and you are in the best
of hands with BB's advice. I would like to thank Dee Bee for the
great images of the maker's plate and the engine id.

I really like the idea of a father/son project.
I have seen many rewarding outcomes from this.
It's best to start simple before the Bugatti Royale project.

---------------------
Jack

Gotta love the history of these mowers, hence going with one to restore. (Thanks heaps for the info guys!)

So I found some time to grab my son away from the playstation and we began to strip.

I will remove the paint tomorrow for closer inspection of the rails. Initial inspection looks good.
As for the motor. I'd love to keep her, but I will feel much better about this is we go and get something a bit more reliable. Its funny because the motor was made before I was even born and still runs....just.....
I'll update tomorrow with strip pics when I have more light on the subject.


Any trick to removing this bolt? Its very still. (I know about the gear puller for the gear itself.) I have the unit on its side soaking in wd40 as we speak.


oh and Im guessing this sucker should be straight...


Am i asking too many questions yet? Sorry in advance...
Anyone know where i can buy some replacements for these?

Hi Dee Bee,

As far as removing that "Nut" and not a bolt is concerned it is usually done with the chains still installed and the clutch in the engaged position, but as you've already pulled that part of the drive train apart all you need to do is lock up the reel with a suitable piece of timber through it and place a 3/4 size socket on a breaker bar over the nut and give it a sharp blow in the traditional anti-clockwise direction and it should come off easily enough. You could also use the ring end of the combination spanner you have there (not the open end) if no socket and breaker bar is available.

Yes the height adjuster should be straight, so placing it in a suitable vice crosswise (horizontal) with the bent section being exposed at the end of the jaws of the vice. Now again using a piece of timber to protect the thread area use a hammer and tap it back into line. Protecting the thread is paramount here.

Now those last two items consisting of rubber and odd sized set screws are definitely not genuine Scott Bonnar parts. (nor Rover) I have just looked back at your photos and as I suspected they are bodgey catcher rubbers that have been attached by a previous tenant, regardless they belong in the circular filing system and new ones must be sourced. Could you please supply a photo of the area from where they have been removed as that will give me a bit of historical evidence if that machine used the push on type rubbers or the later replacement bolt on type.

For now,

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks for the quick reply BB, bloody legend!

I did watch the video that the guys did up for removing the reel, and yes I got a bit carried away. haha
I'll sort it out this afternoon now that I have some more light.

I'll replace the height adjuster completely I think. I feel that the thread may be too damaged to work properly even if I straighten it.

Stand by for pics of: rails and catch rubber attachment points.

On a side note: what would be the best method for ordering a complete set or replacement nuts/bolts/bearings? Shall I just go through manual and write down the part numbers? It seems some online shops have a few bits and pieces but not all. Can anyone in the brains trust that has done this advise on the most successful method?

oh and I've also purchased one of these to swap out.
ebay engine 6.5hp

Probably a bit premature considering I haven't checked the rails thoroughly, however I figured that i'll find another 45 if these rails are no good.

Cheers
DB

Hi Dee Bee,

Sad news !

There is no such thing as a complete overhaul kit. It's on a bit by requirement basis only.

I'll have to say though at the moment it's starting to become a tad tough sourcing bits and pieces apart from standardised parts like bearings etc.

There are no pieces like chassis parts available at the moment as most original stock piles have been exhausted and there are no after market bits being currently made nor sold apart from Clutch halves.

Try looking for a LH Reel Bearing carrier for an early 20 inch Series one machine ???????? more chance of finding rockin' horse proverbial.

Even the standardised carriers for the 17 and 14 inch machines are no longer available and that's sad.

As far as putting a Chonda on the Scotty, that shouldn't be an issue, but as long as you keep good oil in it and service it regularly you'll have no issues there. One thing that the Chonda have over the earlier Briggs engines is their smoothness and that is an advantage on a twin railer.

As far as the height adjuster, if you are a careful operator you should get that one perfectly straight with no thread issues.

But Yes I would check out the rails before going one whole step further.

Cheers,
BB.

hi dee bee
from the look of the threads on your bent hight adjustment rod some of the threads look damaged
after you straiten it would not hurt to run the correct size unf die down it to restore the threads again that way the height adjustment knob will screw on smoothly

Does anyone have any CAD/design files for these parts?

I have a somewhat large CNC router (good for ally) and access to a large plasma cutter for steel.
Maybe could do a run of some parts....my forte is not the design part, so modelling them myself is out of the question.

I've gone ahead and just purchased a few replacement parts. ie height adjuster and new bearings etc etc.

I'm still at the workshop, so should have some pics of the rails shortly.

Cheers

Hi Dee Bee,

At this point in time I'll say, "I don't think so".


Cheers,
BB.

Rails look good to me! Thoughts?

Full steam ahead I say !

You're one lucky duck that won't have to do any of the hard yards and costly ones at that.

Cheers,
BB.

I forgot about the catcher rubbers.
Im guessing i can just press fit the black square ones over these mounts?
Once i remove whatever was inserted into these suckers.

Essentially, no. Unless the ODK member who decided to reproduce the SB45 chassis in stainless steel did a set. And that would only be for the chassis structure.

The info ODK had, via our administrator Deejay, was that at the time the 45 series was discontinued by Rover/MTD, Golf & Bowling Machinery of Vic offered to purchase the drawings and tooling - but were refused. So it all went to scrap.

So I couldn't get that bolt out of the catcher rubber bracket without breaking it off totally in the thread. Do I bother digging it out?

Also I'm going to give these bits a bit of a clean up before painting. Some I'll sand blast, some will just get a good degrease and clean. (Clutch body)

Anything I'm missing that I should be cleaning up/blasting at the same time?

Hi Dee Bee,

I've rotated your photo for you so that our members don't have to do a hand stand to view it.

I think you've got it all covered as far as blasting is concerned. I'm not sure what's been done with a welder on the top section of the lower handlebar assembly ? Maybe you could skilfully grind it back nicely, but it's going to be behind the shield and not really seen. I know what I'd be doing but it's your call.

As far as that snapped off set screw that was used to attach those bogus catcher rubbers I would just nicely cut the lower protruding section of with a small hacksaw and then nicely file it back flush. You are correct in saying that all you have to do is get the early style square block rubbers and push them on the original stubs.

It's interesting that the stubs were still being used at the time your mower was made (as it's an Eagle Farm made machine) and thus it supplies us with evidence that the bolt on rubbers came along when the name Rover appeared on the Kermit green powder coated machines.

Plenty more photo's, we just love more photos !

Cheers,
BB.

Cheers, not sure why it was upside down! Looked fine on my phone when I uploaded.

Mate ive got a billion photos, but mostly just so I know how to put her back together. Shall I post a few of the main ones?

On a side note, clutch cork epoxy, what type/brand should be used? My cork fell apart a bit when I took apart that gear.

Hi Dee Bee,

I guess just progress photos of the main components as you go along, stuff that would be of interest to new members.

Onto your cork adhesive, "Contact" glue is what you should be using, the yellow stuff that you apply to both surfaces let go off then put the two surfaces together.

Cheers,
BB.