OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers 17inch Scott Bonnar Restoration

Thanks BB I'll probably get some grub screws for it later on.

I started to paint the engine and other bits today, here are some photos







What do you guys think? Pardon the pun but I think it looks red hot!

looking great there soleman . but i hope you cleaned off the paint before you mounted the coils and parts ? or might have a worry trying to track down where your nice new spark all went too mate , needs a nice clean surface for the earth . and correct airgap too .
but looks good so far mate

Lol don't worry that's the old spark plug. I used it just so it would plug the hole off, it will be going in the bin.

Good point about the paint I'll make sure I sand the paint off on contact points

OOh La La !!

I just love it when a girl gets all dressed up ! LOL

hey guys, been a while but i have decided to get this project going again.

i've been sanding them down to bear metal then priming them, taking me ages but its looking good... well good enough for me here is a picture of the parts primed so far


i also polished the clutch covers, it came out ok. I could get a better finish but i do intend on using it not showing it.




i have started stripping down frame but I'm have a few issues with some parts, I'm mainly getting through it but i need some help. I'm having issues removing one of the half moons from the clutch side shaft. here's a photo.




as you can see i got one moon out with a pair of piers but the other is being a real bugger, even used a hammer and flat blade to try and bash it out but no luck. any ideas or suggestions on how to remove it?

Hey Solman,

That's no issue really, If the "Woodruf Key" doesn't come out easily then leave it inserted, this way there's no chance of losing it.


Cheers,
BB.

hey guys did some more work on the 45 today. I pull the bed knife of and was just wondering if it needs to be replaced? it seems ok to me and looks like it has been changed in the past as you can tell by the screws being worn.







i also pulled apart the rear roller, man that was an effort and a half. Every part was rusted and some where so stuck together that i need a mallet to get them apart. I was surprised on how much rust i found inside it, must of had a a small pool of water inside it, I'm gonna sand it back and paint inside and out. For rust proofing really so nothing fancy.





My only concern is with the centre piece that has the "teeth" in it, which locks the drum. Do you think it would be ok to paint this?

Also i been trying to find where i can get the rear roller covered in rubber, i swear i have seen this before but can't seem to find any info on it. Any help would be much appericated.

Hi Solman,


Yep water will do it everytime !

I'd probably not paint the roller pawls nor the area that they reside in. They should be well covered in oil, not grease.

As far as the rubberisation of the rear rollers is concerned that would've been "opeparts" on eBay which is Cameron. He's currently gone to ground and probably won't turn up again until sometime next year.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. the bed knife looks pretty good from here but how it mates up to the reels is of conjecture I'd say. I would get it spun ground and then re fit it, then it'll be just like a new one. Just to clarify it's the sole plate you removed I hope and not the actual bed knife off the sole plate ?

hi solman
you could try zenith rubber ph 0397625515 they are a company in victora they make rubber floor sander wheels linisher rubber wheels and any thing they make to order .
they also recondition re rubber wheels . they have web sight so goggle there name they might be able to help re rubber a bonnar rear roller
you doing a wonderfull jop on your machine

What sort of oil would you use for the roller pawls?

I'll keep an eye out for Cameron, thanks for that.

Yeah I just removed the sole plate not the blade. After reading on here serval time to not remove I thought I better not remove it

I'm going to take it to get sharpen with the reel once I've finished painting them.

Thanks mate I'll give them a buzz when I get close to finishing the roller.

Hi Solman,

The best advice I can give you is that you send the sole plate and reel off to be sharpened but painting the reel prior to sharpening and then paint the sole plate after it returns from sharpening, this way the paint won't get damaged on the sole plate should the bed knife have to be removed for any particular reason.

Ensure you have new RLS5 Bearings on the shafts of the reel prior to handing it over as the bearings are used in the sharpening process.

As far as the roller pawls are concerned, any motor oil will suffice. Don't use grease as it will cause the pawls to gum up and not move freely which in turn will create issue for your rollers correct function backwards and forwards.

BTW that clutch is going to look fabulous spinning in the sun. I feel you'll require to paint it in a UV resistant clear so that the ally doesn't oxidise as it will and thus will look dowdy rather quickly.

I'm really looking forward to the end result.

Cheers,
BB.

thanks BB for all the tips. good idea about the clear coat i was already regretting to republish it all the time lol

i got a bit more work done today. I started working on the rear roller, and wouldn't you know it after hours of sanding and cleaning i go to prime it and dead set the first bit i spray i found a crack in the roller



is this something to be concerned about? if so should i get it repaired or just source another?

here are some more pic's...




i also worked on the centre pieces, the finish didn't turn out great as there was a fair bit of rust on them which caused some pitting. I didn't want to over grind them just to achieve a smooth surface. I painted them in some galmet i had lying around, again not a great look but hey at least it will help to prevent rusting the the future.




the finished pieces mate nicely together now, which awesome considering i use a large mallet to pull them apart. Ill replace the screws holding it all together as the rust caused the heads to completely wear off, i had to use vice grips to undo it.

Hi All,

I have noticed the same crack on one of my mowers rollers as pointed out by Solman, wondering if anyone has any advice or can point me to another threat that addresses this issue?

Is it a crack along the weld line? Looks like that the end is welded onto the land roll drum from the inside. The outside weld may have been machined back for appearance purposes and ended up being very thin and thru time shows up thru cracking. If the weld is strong inside, a metal filler on the outside might work.

Hi Guys,

Those rear rollers aren't that thick on the outer edges and they have a bit of a habit of wearing through if they do a lot of concrete traversing work. I've seen rollers that are totally bogged up with steel filler and basically falling apart.
My advice would be to try and source another and check out the grooved pattern on the outer edge before purchasing one. If the grooved surface diminishes on the out area then I'd avoid it.

Cheers,
BB.

Try oxy braze just like a plumber would do to the copper pipes.

Even old school air cooled motorcycle engines with big cooling fins are brazed back on.
Rubbed with sand blasting grit as the primer is drying to cover the join then sprayed with engine paint.

I like that idea LawnDownUnder