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#75345 12/05/16 07:31 AM
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 133
Apprentice level 2
***
Hello all, does anyone have any handy tips for replacing the throttle cable on a Scott Bonnar Supercut with the standard Villiers engine? Not expecting to find an original replacement, but maybe something new that can be modified/tweaked to do the job and look the part.

Cheers,

Craig


Keep On Truckin'
Portal Box 6
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
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G'day Craig,

I'd say that what you need to do, is think about making up a new cable from any unique bits [the adjusters and end nipples] of your old cable, and new components.

The new parts are available from suppliers who cater to the vintage motorcycle fraternity, who make up cables as a matter of routine. Not that they have much alternative...

To start with, the old cable has to come off, so that it can be measured up. If there's anything tricky about its routing, take pics!

One local online source with a good range of throttle and clutch cable parts is BMH Trading. No first-hand experience with them, but they have the right bits at reasonable prices.

A couple of files with good cable makeup tips are attached below.

Before I get into serious detail, are you comfortable with doing a bit of 'soft solder' work, with Tin/Lead solder?
It's not in any way rocket surgery, but does require some manual dexterity, and a bit more gear than a small leccy soldering iron.

Attachments
Flanders_cable_soldering.pdf (217.5 KB, 8 downloads)
Venhill_Cable_Construction.pdf (129.52 KB, 11 downloads)
Flanders

Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 133
Apprentice level 2
***
Thanks very much for that info Gadge, I reckon I'll have a crack at making one from a universal kit. I'll let everyone know how I get on ........and if I set my shed on fire..heheh

Cheers,

Craig


Keep On Truckin'
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
No worries Craig,
A few points about the process:
  • Cleaning - degrease the end of the cable inner thoroughly with something like 'Brakleen' before attempting to solder
  • Soldering - if using a soldering iron, it needs to be the old-style kind with a big copper bit - either electric or gas heated. Something with a serious heat output. A hot air gun will also work, but not a direct flame.
  • The best way is to use a small 'solder pot', heated on a hotplate or with a gas burner/torch, so that the cable end/nipple can be dipped into a pool of molten solder. E.g. a small tin can [not aluminium], or a pipe cap, would work well. The solder depth should be sufficient to fully immerse the nipple.
  • Solder type - 50/50 Tin/Lead plumbers solder, or 60/40 electrical solder are both OK.
  • Flux - Baker's Soldering Fluid is about the only readily available type, and works well. Dip the cable end into the liquid just before soldering, and rinse it well with hot water afterwards.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 133
Apprentice level 2
***
Hey Gadge, thanks again for the good advice.

I made a throttle cable once before for the junior carb on my 49 ATCO by drilling a hole in a brick as a mould and then melting lead onto the cable with lots of cleaning and flux etc..... It worked out well but there is little resistance in this throttle-slide situation and I don't know how strong it really is. I think your advice will help me do a much better job up against the tension of the governor on the Villiers 12/2.

Cheers,

Craig


Keep On Truckin'

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