OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield MkII Evolution Ride-on - Wiring

Good evening prd,

As stated previously here are the pics of the Throttle control, it has a picture pasted onto the top panel near the steering wheel saying choke, slow, but no stop.

It would have been more logical to put marks on the panel where the throttle handle goes up and down and clearly labelled with the Words, Choke, Stop, Slow. Idle etc.

Here's the pic, including the key switch.

Cheers, Bondy

That sure looks like a STOP to me, it's wired to stop off the key , not the throttle.

G'day Bondy,

The original engine was wired so that the engine was stopped by the ignition switch. You now have a different aftermarket engine that has the engine stop (magneto) controlled by the throttle lever. This can be altered by modifying the wiring behind the fuel tank as previously discussed. If you end up refitting the seat switch (as you should) this will need to be done eventually anyway. The suggestion that you leave this for now is so you can tackle one problem at a time.

Of course the stop/choke issue will need to be resolved. Have you had a chance to look at this yet?

How are you going with the rest of it. You should be close to power up?

hi prd, your right, that the Hondas have a micro switch mounted to the throttle plate that is pushed when the throttle is shut off, if it has been wired that way then it only needs to be checked that it's working, ( being pushed).
that would mean the starting issue is probably only a bad battery/ connection or both.
the seat switch when unplugged has no influence on anything. cheers, pete

G'day Squizzy,

Yeah your right, that is a stop sign on the key switch. As prd stated, the mower I have at present has a different aftermarket engine.

prd. no, have not wired up that seat switch, I have to purchase another switch. The original battery is cactus, needs a new battery but don't think i'll be paying big dollars just yet for a small battery , I should be able to source one a lot less price from a battery seller.

I had a go at removing the solenoid from the Honda , I can remove one bolt. it has an 8mm head. The other bolt is hard to get at, one needs a very small handle with a 50mm 1/4" bar extension, looks like too hard basket to remove from stater motor, so I'll put the other bolt back in tomorrow.

I still have not got around to rectifying the choke.

Cheers, Bondy

Hello prd and mark electric

I have made a wire to run from the positive terminal of the Honda Solenoid to the terminal marked Battery on the Key switch. There were two other wires that I had connected onto the terminals of the Key switch, one was more likely a charge wire of some description , the colour of that wire is white, it is enclosed in some type a cloth sheath, I've connected that to the terminal called Magneto on the Key switch. I take it that needs to be removed from the key switch as its not the Magneto wire.

The other wires which we discussed earlier are the wires from the Honda Solenoid, that is the black and another wire which is black with white stripe.

Just to be certain, the black wire on the Solenoid, Where does this go to on the Key switch?

The Black wire with the white stripe is Earthed / Grounded and is attached to the other solenoid securing bolt.

Just double checking before powering up with new battery.

Cheers, Bondy

good luck there bondy,

squizzy,

I back tracked through the earlier posts, thought I double check and I was correct, Black wire from the Honda solenoid goes to terminal S = Solenoid on the Key switch.

Good as Gold and ready to rock and roll

Now for the battery

Cheers, Bondy

Hi Bondy.

Yes, the White wire in the cloth sheath needs to be removed from the ignition switch and secured so the terminal end can't short to ground.
You are correct. Black wire from the solenoid to 'S' on the switch.
The wire you have run from the positive terminal of the solenoid to ''B' terminal of the switch should have the fuse in it at the solenoid end.

Solenoid top is nice and secure on the can?

Cheers,

Hi prd,

Thanks for reconfirming, Yes, I have the wire from the positive terminal of the Honda solenoid to "B" Terminal of the Key switch with glass fuse.

I could not undo one of the 8mm can bolts due to lack of space, I tried 8mm short spanner, and 1/4" drive socket with 50mm and 75mm extension bar.

I left the Honda solenoid in situ, and will apply silastic soon.

The battery has been on charger for 35 hours continual, only three cells seem to be ok, rest of the cells might be knackered.

I don't know if the battery can be revived, couple of web pages (mostly American) saying that old batteries that seem to be dead can be brought back to life. One web site reckons about 1 week on trickle charge.

Not sure about that one. I've sourced one from a wrecker, good battery with blemishes for about $50.00. Only hiccup, the battery height is 19cm, mine is 15.5cm or 16cm if you take the top of the battery case into calcs.

Cheers, Bondy

Success, after having that dead battery on trickle charger for about 4 days continual, finally it's full charged, it read 13.11v, now reads 12.94v, battery could still be cactus as it may not be holding its' charge.

Voltmeter test later tonight and tomorrow am will show results.

Cheers, Bondy

G'day people,

Something went wrong this morning, battery was fully charged, I must had a bad connection on that Honda Solenoid. two terminals on the battery pole side, sparked , next I see battery starting to boil and smoke, cables melting and getting hot.

Immediately cut the wire on battery. That Honda solenoid must have somehow shortened itself, well and truly knackered now, so going to rewire system with new cables.

Thursday next week is test day, see what happens then.

Merry Christmas to all

Hello Bondy
To address your second last post, the only true way to test a batteries performance is to measure its terminal voltage whilst it is under load.
I have tested a lot of batteries with a carbon pile tester. The procedure is to find out the battery capacity CCA or Ah, connect it up to the battery and wind the carbon piles in until the meter reads the batteries capacity, it is a 15 sec test and a 12v battery should not drop below 9.6V.
Because yours took sooooo long to charge up, from where I am sitting, I would say its not accepting charge.
A battery shop should test your battery for free with their electronic tester.
---------------
To talk about your last post.
You have had a massive short to earth for what ever reason, exactly what we were trying to avoid, to state the obvious.

Good luck with the rewire, my advice is to do some dead testing on the OHMS range prior to connecting it up to the battery. When you are confident all is correct and are ready to connect it to the battery, ensure you can cut/remove power quickly if something isn't right.

Yes, Merry Christmas
From Mark

Hello Mark,

Oh ok, there is a company called Battery World, I should have taken it to them to test the battery in the first instance, I'd say that battery would be well and truly cooked by now.

I have managed to source another battery, slightly blemished but still safe and good.

Yep, not wrong about the short to earth, certainly had me off that mower very quickly. Rewire should not be too much of an issue now, as you said, best to do some dead testing on the OHMS range, I purchased a new multimeter yesterday, it has continuity with audible sound function.

Next week hopefully will get that battery and hopefully wires will be sorted.

Merry Christmas.
From Bondy

Hi People,

Many thanks to those who provide me with guidance / assistance in my time of need. I have rewired the greenfield machine. After removing the Honda Solenoid, yes, it was faulty towards the end for reasons unknown, earlier I thought it was in good shape.

I've used the original Greenfield solenoid, tested the wires and connections using multimeter in Ohms range / continuity sound test, connected to car battery via booster cables.

Solenoid clicks when key switch applied to run and starter motor turns and engine engages. I have not connected any wires to recharge battery or to drivers seat (safety switch) at this stage. Leaving that until after New Year.

I attached the heavy cable from the starter motor to other side of greenfield solenoid using additional heavy cable as a link. (Starter motor cable had to be extended as it was short by a few inches). Cable is heavily insulated against rubbing and exposure.

I'll upload new pics by the weekend.

Cheers, bondy

Hi people,

I managed to get the ride on working , no problems, unfortunately the Honda engine that replaced the original Briggs and Stratton has the exhaust pointing directly towards onto my right ankle area.

I felt something getting hot , yep, my right ankle, I too no notice until end of day's cutting only to discover 3 burn spots resulting in blistering, not good for a type 2 diabetic.

Had to make a protective shield to prevent exhaust burns to my ankle in future. I used a piece of Styrofoam sandwiched between two pieces of fibro cement. It worked but getting it to stay around my right foot when using the accelerator was a challenge.

good onya bondy,

Good morning bondy99,
Is it possible to rotate the muffler away from your right foot, or maybe make a small J-shaped extension pipe to weld onto it?

Any chance of putting up a pic of the muffler setup?

If it's the exhaust gas that hits your ankle [rather than radiated heat from the muffler body], it may be possible to fit a deflector on the outlet.

G'day Bondy and Co.,

The little 'scoop' over the exhaust outlet can be repositioned. It is designed that way. It's held on with 3(?) little screws. It can go on in 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock positions.

I had to reposition mine when I put my new Honda in.

Cheers,