OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa mower needs model ID

I'm giving my Victa mower some TLC, but although I've owned it from new, I don't know the model number. This would be handy when ordering parts online.

It is a side-discharge utility mower, with a Victa frame and a Honda GCV135 engine. The blade bolts are at 255mm (10") centre-to-centre and the blade tips swing a 453mm (17.8") diameter. I bought it new about 2003.

It has a small sticker on the back of the engine that says:
VICTA
M/N PUS402L
S/N 6332-43-03

When I Google any of that, I get nothing. Can anyone enlighten me?

I'll just add a couple of pics. At the moment the Honda engine is off the frame, as I've been doing some maintenance on it.

Hi Ian333, and a warm welcome to the forum.
We have some very knowledgeable members on Victas here, I hope you get the answers you need.

Once again, to OutdoorKing.

Thanks for the welcome Deejay - yes I believe I am in the right place for all things mowers!

Hi Ian, and welcome to the forum. The PUS402L does mean something but exactly what is totally another question. The best i can make of it(from experience) is Procut Utility on a Steel Body (hence the PUS) the 4 denotes 4 stroke the 02 i have no idea and the L is the model run, possibly denoting the year of manufacture or the generation of the run of the model.
At the end of the day it's a later model Utility body with the drillings for either a 2 stroke powertorque engine or any forward facing 4 stroke. You could also mount a 4 stroke on it in an east west configuration using the same set of holes as the 2 stroke setup.
I suppose the real question, for me, would be, "what parts do you need to order"? If you need engine parts just specify that it's a GCV135, if you need Chassis parts, generically it's a Victa 460mm utility.
If you need a hand ordering/finding parts don't hesitate to ask and i'm sure we can point you in the right direction.

Excellent answer, thanks Ted. While there may be some mysteries remaining over the model number you have told me enough that I can go for parts.

One question maybe to follow up. I foolishly tightened up the blade rotor disc without aligning the two wings on the disc boss to the corrsponding depressions in the disc. The disc boss is actually sold here at OutdoorKing,
Victa Disc Boss Late Model EE14417A

Not having done it before, I was tightening up thinking 'hmm this has a weird springy feel' until Bang! one of the wings on the boss snapped off. I kicked myself I can tell you - but at least stupid mistakes like that keep me humble. Anyhow, now I'm wondering if I'll get away with using the boss with just one wing on the boss, rather than shelling out $50 for a new part. I suppose if its only a matter of 'use it and see if it works' then I'll leave it for now.

Now that I know more about the mower frame, I'll go and order new blades
Victa Late Model Utility Blades CA09351S

One of the front wheels seems to have a broken inner rim or inner rim cover, though I haven't looked into that yet. I haven't figured out the replacement wheel part number as yet (no photos of the wheels on the online store).

Just to follow up, in case I can get a bit of help with part numbers, since I'm not getting good results with Google - I have attached some photos of parts I need for this mower frame.

1. The front wheel tyre is marked: Victa SUPERTRAK 150
The plastic rim on the inner side of the wheel is broken (photo below). Any hints on tracking one down would be a big help.

2. One the the original plastic handle knobs is missing. Sure, I have a hardware store knob as a replacement, but it would be nice to get an OEM part. Again, any clues?

the broken part just clips back in the wheel depends on how you feel about it . i have a few sets of wheels even have caps on them too , a knob too , the wheels dont have supertrack on them though . but i think almost any wheels will fit as long as the same axle or bushes
, Dave

Well, I didn't like the rim as it was (see photos), but since it looks like there's no OEM replacement, I opted to make a little splint from aluminium at the back of the rim, with holes tapped 3/16 BSW. I've screwed in dome-head screws through the plastic rim into the splint. You can see in one of the photos the template I drew to mark out the aluminium splint, for cutting it out with a junior hacksaw and some chain drilling.

The only thing is, I have used brass screws just to get it done, but I will have to buy zinc-plated steel screws (I don't have any in my odd screw jars); this is because brass and aluminium are not good metals to be in contact - there is a strong risk of galvanic corrosion. But at least the job's done and once I've got the steel screws, I can press the rim in and get the mower going again.

Hi Ian, i reckon you're overthinking the brass to aluminium corrosion thing a little. By the time that corrosion sets in that cover will have cracked in a different spot. It's common for the front right and the rear left wheel on most mowers to cop a beating due to the clockwise direction of the engine. Any debris(stones etc.) get thrown out in the direction of the spin. Once you press it back into the wheel run a squirt of super glue around the perimeter to prevent it from falling out. Once done switch the 2 front wheels around to preserve that one a little longer.
As for the blade boss, i've seen a few with one tang broken off that work fine, so that's your choice as to whether you replace it or live with it.
Genuine handle knob can be found HERE

bigted, that explains to me why the thing broke in the first place - which I couldn't understand, it being out-of-the-way as far as me running the mower into anything that would break the rim. But now I see what you mean - a stone thrown by the blade would do it. And dammit, it was the front right, as you say!

I'll swap them around, but now see that due to more stones, eventually I'll probably have to buy new wheels. Thanks for the knob link - I did see that page before posting, but wasn't sure if the rear of that knob was the same.

Broken blade boss - well, if they work ok with just one tang, then I'll live with it.

Ta, Ian

Well I think I found a parts diagram for this mower frame, on a UK mower parts website:

Victa Pro 460 - 18" utility side discharge up to 9/1999

The blade disc is different, and the wheels may not be exactly the same (mine has 150mm wheels front and 175mm rear, all with 6902-2RS sealed bearings). But the CH85124K baseplate seems to be the same and apparently all the other fittings are the same.

I stripped mine down today, finding that the bolts that hold the handle and axle assemblies to the baseplate had corroded from all the wet grass. This made removal of some of the nylock nuts difficult, or in a couple of cases impossible. Maybe I'll replace with stainless steel versions.

Under the veneer of old grass pulp caked on the underside of the baseplate is the beginnings of significant rust. I've wire-brushed a lot of this off, but there are areas of deeper rust I still have to wirebrush out. Then I'll paint with Killrust epoxy. But there seems no realistic way to stop the paint coming back off in the first few minutes of mowing and have the rust start up all over again. Unless there's some dodge anyone knows (Fish oil? Some brand of proprietary rust-converter)?

Might as well; it won't cost much.

The old style bitumen paint is about the best to use here, as it's very resistant to flaking off under impact or abrasion.

But the only sure way to limit corrosion under a steel mower deck, is to hose it out immediately after use. And an occasional scrub down, with a brush. This has worked for 29 years thus far, for my inherited SupaSwift Big Bob...

This is very easily done with a 2-stroke, as the only concern is fuel spillage - you tip it in a direction that has the fuel filler uppermost. The main reason this procedure has not been much recommended by manufacturers in recent times, is the prevalence of 4-stroke engines. Tipping these in the wrong direction [anything other than spark plug uppermost] causes all sorts of problems with engine oil getting into places you don't want it to be. And most owners don't 'RTFM' [i.e. Read The Flippin' Manual] enough to avoid these problems.

Good thinking, Gadge.

Ormonoid 500ml Bitumen Paint $10

I might get some Killrust on first, let that harden and then put on the bitumen paint.

As to hosing out, maybe I'll have to just be less slack in future. You are right that this is where a 4-stroke is a PITA, because really you can only tip it backwards to about 45 deg and the handle stops it there - it's hard to get under, so you tend not to bother.

I have found the proper OEM wheels for this frame, on the All Mower Spares website.

They are:
- Victa 6 Inch Supatrak Wheel Assy 150mm CH87081G AUD 27.50
- Victa 7 Inch Supatrak Wheel Assy 175mm CH87082G AUD 30.50

Not cheap! I won't be doing that right now.

Replacing the frame bolts in grade 304 stainless steel requires:
- Coachbolt (aka cup head square neck bolt) 5/16 UNC x 1.75" or M8 x 50mm (4 off) (replaces HA20310D)
- Nyloc nut 5/16 UNC or M8 (4 off) (replaces HA24845D)
- Flat washer 1/4 x 3/4 x 18 gauge or M8 x 17.0 x 1.2 (4 off) (replaces HA22241D)
- Hex head flange bolt 1/4" x 3/4" or M6 x 20mm (4 off) (replaces HA21073D) (or else use e.g. M6 hex bolts and M6 x 12.5 washers)
- Nyloc nut 1/4 UNC or M6 (4 off) (replaces HA24844D)

UNC for authenticity, or else metric or BSW. Depends on your spanners really - I like metric. That's just over $10 worth of new fasteners. Postage $13 extra if you buy online - I might think of more stuff I need to make more use of the postage cost.

Ian, if you download the 'Victa Spare Parts Manual 1990s to Early 2000' pdf from the 'Parts Info' page on that [Censored] website, it has the parts diagrams and lists for both Utility mower versions of that era.

Bruce also has those wheels in stock in the OutdoorKing online shop.

Excellent, Gadge, I found it:

Victa Spare Parts Manual 1990s to Early 2000.pdf

That's a really super resource. A bonus is that the index page at the front lists the model prefixes (the initial 3-letter code of the model number) - so my 'PUS' model corresponds to 'Utility (from Sept 99) PUS'.

Took a while, but I got the mower back together and gave it a run after the work on both engine and frame. All good. The frame bolts are all now 304 grade stainless, which was fairly cheap to do; and the underbody has had rust converter then two coats of Killrust enamel and then two coats of bitumen paint. Hopefully the rust won't be back for a while. I didn't get everything done that I'd like, so some of the renovation will have to wait for next year.



So that's my Victa Pro 460 utility with Honda GCV135 engine, ready to mow my bush block next week.

Thanks to those who helped me out on this thread.

Ian

They also provide a parts lookup so you can easily find what you're looking. Good site.

nice mower mate
wouldnt mind seeing that bitumen paint finish
this is painted textured granite finish.