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Changed diagram to better match Honda solenoid.



Honda solenoid start coil wires (black and black with white stripe) The black and white wire will connect to earth. The black wire will go to ignition switch (S - solenoid).

Hello Mark Electric,

No worries, There should be enough length of wire to do the job. I do have couple of small rolls of wire if required. Have some terminal connectors.

I should be able to use the existing earthed wire as is. No probs, I'll be looking at a few things via youtube.

Thanks for the updated Honda diagram.

Cheers, Bondy

G'day Bondy and Mark,

Mark, have a look at Bondy's close up photo of the Honda solenoid. I think it's stuffed. The can has been knocked and is loose?

I really am going to have to start using my eyes, thanks prd.
Might have to go for plan B, :-)

G'day Mark and prd,

Well, you could be right , that solenoid on the Honda mower is bit loose and does move slightly, I had to hold onto the top of the solenoid to stop it from spinning when I undone the nut holding the battery cable.

Anyway, I've placed the red battery cable back on the Honda solenoid.

Those letters on the Ignition switch was hard to find, the buggers were stamped on the other side of the spade terminals. I had to use good light and angle reflection to see them. I've marked the letters on the spade terminals facing outwards for easier identification.

I'm not keen in buying a Honda Solenoid to replace the other as it looks like a pain to remove it from the motor.

I noticed a black wire from the Honda Solenoid, could be attached to a white coloured wire going to the ignition switch harness. The Black wire with white stripe coming from the Honda solenoid is earthed near the solenoid.

I have tested the ignition switch without wires, it's good to use.

I've attached additional pics.

I have no idea about those other wires that are located near the oil filler pipe.

There are some wires going to what looks like to be the solenoid and the rest was just zipped tied.

There is a red wire with what looks like a fuse holder (no fuse), other wire that would connect with that one has either disappeared or been canabalised for something else.

There is another black or brown wire with a female bullet terminal covered with dust.

Cheers, Bondy

G'day Bondy and Mark,

That bunch of wires next to the filler? There should be two wires in that bundle. One is the alternator output wire and one may be a magneto kill- I'd have to check. The one with the fuse is the alternator wire the previous owner had going to the battery for charge.

You also show a fuzzy photo of a green wire and a red wire. If they are coming out of a little one inch square black cube (which I guess is the rectifier) then the red one is the alternator output I think, and should be the same wire with the fuse holder on it.

Not sure what you mean by a wire from this bundle going to the solenoid.

Given that the Honda solenoid is stuffed, I'd be putting the old greenfield solenoid back on and using it. That's what Mark meant by plan B I apologise for mucking you around on this one. The suggestion to use the Honda one was based on the assumption it was shiny and new.

Mark, do those switch numbers mean anything to you?

Yes prd,
Ignition switch:
M - magneto
S - Solenoid
L - lights
G - Ground / Earth
B - Battery

#So connect magneto kill wire to M - magneto

#Connect battery supply 12v to B - Battery (supply will come from a main terminal on top of the solenoid, battery supply side.) Should be a fuse protecting this cable.

#Connect an earth wire to G - Ground / Earth ( wire normally comes from under the base of the solenoid)

# connect a wire from S - Solenoid (this wire is run to the coil terminal on the solenoid) so, when you turn the key to start (spring loaded) 12v is then applied to the coil. The coil becomes an electromagnet and closes the main contacts, which then gives the starter motor a 12v supply.

The intent is to get the engine to start and stop from the ignition switch, then I would focus on the other circuits one at a time.

Hope this helps.

Good morning PRD and Mark Electric,

Thanks for providing me with assistance, it's all a learning curve for me.
Bit of shame the Honda solenoid is buggered, oh well its back to using the original Greenfield Solenoid.

PRD, yes the fuzzy photo with the wires are from that rectifier. No probs, if it was new and not dodgey I'd be using it.

I'll have to see if there are any markings on that solenoid so I don't get the wiring mixed up.

There are no fuses protecting any cable, I think the previous owner must have been a red neck and rough at that. What fuse rating would be required, I'll wire one up.

Which Magneto Kill wire are we talking about, is it the one coming from the Honda Mower?

Unfortunately my mind is not as sharp as it used to be, don't suppose you have a diagram of a Greenfield Solenoid as to where these wires go to?

Battery has never been charged, its reading 4.25volts.

I placed a battery charger n it few times, each time the charger says battery fully charged. Multimeter tells me different.

I'll be back later after I look at the mower again.

Cheers, Bondy

Hello Mark Electric and prd,

Hmmmm, Hope I'm not loosing my marbles anyway.

I've cleaned up the original Greenfield Solenoid, good job I kept the photo with the original wires going to it, but that would change now as some of those wires were also going to the Honda Solenoid which we now know is stuffed, not sure about power wise, I have never tested the Honda solenoid to see if it still gets power.

With reference to the Honda Solenoid, I managed to remove a rubber cap that was covering one of the terminals. I traced the wire on that terminal it comes straight from the Starter Motor.

It appears the Honda Solenoid is held in place by two small bolts, size not certain of, could be 5mm or so. They can be get at to remove entire solenoid if need be.

I have no idea if that Honda Solenoid can be replaced with another and where I could get it from if need be.

May as well start and run the wires from scratch. I've managed to get black, red, white and blue wire cable, all 20Amp rated.

Male and female bullet connectors as well as Male and Female spade connectors.

One Fuse connector with 20Amp fuse or could go 25 or 30 Amp

I'll use the existing battery cables for power and earthing requirements.

Here are those pics taken this arvo.

Cheers Bondy[img]

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...646-greenfield_solenoid_cleaned_copy.jpg[/img]

The Honda solenoid might still work. All that can really does is protect the innards, but it's copped a hit somehow.

You could try a continuity check across the black and black/white wires - that will tell you if the coil is OK, at least.
If it is, then try putting 12V [e.g. from a car battery] across the same wires - +ve to black. If it's still working, you'll hear/feel it click. A full function test will need a good battery, and it does sound like the one on the mower is cactus.


The GXV390 Owner Manual has some charging system wiring diagrams, and there are three types.
Download for your model is at http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/00X37Z5N6111.pdf

Hi Gadge,

Thanks for your reply. I hope the Honda solenoid does work, it will save a lot of problems if it does.

I did have a continuity tester, unfortunately I've misplaced it, all I have now is a Digitech QM-1500 Multimeter, never came with instructions. I've got the red lead plugged in above the COM hole (Black lead plugged in the COM hole). I can check for voltage, not familiar with rest of the features on the multimeter.

One way to find out if that solenoid is useable. I agree, that battery is cactus, it's been neglected by previous owner.

Thanks for your advice and thanks for the link for that Honda motor.

Cheers, Bondy

That's a pretty basic multimeter - you can use either the lowest Ohms [Omega symbol] resistance range, or the audible continuity/diode check range [diode symbol], one click to the right of that. You have the leads in the correct sockets for these readings.

HERE is the distributor's product page for that one, which has a tab to download a brief manual. It's a bit 'Chinglish', though.

Hi Gadge,

Yep, it is a cheap one, I did see the Ohms range and the diode symbol.

The device I have dose not make any audio noise. I am most likely to purchase an upgraded version that has the continuity audio type. Same supplier Jaycar Electronics.

Thank for the download link.

Cheers, Bondy

Hi pr, Mark Electric and Gadge,

I'm Going to test the black and black/white stripe wires on the Honda Solenoid to see if they are still good.

If they are then I will use the Honda Solenoid. Will let you know if those wires and solenoid are good to go.

Cheers, Bondy

Hello prd, Mark electric and Gadge,

I've tested the black wire and black/white wire on the Honda solenoid, it still works.

I had a look at the electrical diagram that came with the PDF Honda Motors, I can't follow those diagrams.

The diagram that Mark made / modified is easier to follow.

Would this be correct.

M on Key switch connects with Magneto wire from Honda Mower.
G on key switch goes to Earth.
B on key switch goes to Battery via Positive terminal on Honda Solenoid.
L on key switch is not used as there are no lights.
S on key switch goes to Honda Solenoid......Is it the same positive terminal the battery lead and B lead from key switch connects to?

At this stage all needs to be done is having a charge wire installed somewhere to recharge the battery. What amp wire would you recommend?

Still not using Safety Cut off Switch (at this stage)

Cheers, Bondy

Hello Bondy,
I see you have tested the resistance of your solenoids coil, you should have read some amount of value on your meter.

M on Key switch connects with Magneto wire from Honda Mower. (Correct)
G on key switch goes to Earth. (Correct)
B on key switch goes to Battery via Positive terminal on Honda Solenoid. (Correct)
L on key switch is not used as there are no lights. (Correct)
S on key switch goes to Honda Solenoid......Is it the same positive terminal the battery lead and B lead from key switch connects to? (No)

S on key switch goes to the black wire on the solenoids coil.

Then when you turn the key switch to start, at the key switch B & S are closed, +12V is then applied to your solenoids coil, energising it, you should here a click like Gadge said.

The click is the main contacts of your solenoid closing, sending power to the starter motor.

Very important bondy, ensure you are not creating any short circuit during this rewire.
Check/test all your wiring prior to connecting it to the battery.

Cheers

G'day Folks,

Bondy, your getting close.

M to magneto wire on motor as you say. That should be the other wire in the bundle with the alternator wire. I'll check in the morning.

B to battery. This can be from the battery lead on the solenoid if you wish or straight from the battery positive. Either will work. It will need to be fused with the fuse as close as Is reasonably possible to the power source

G to ground as you say.

S is to the SMALL wire on the solenoid (this is the one which is black with the white stripe?).

The charge wire will go to the battery lead on the solenoid. Mark, do you agree the charge wire doesn't need to be switched? As this wire is very short it probably doesn't need to be fused. Do you agree Mark?

Don't be concerned about the wiring diagrams in the Honda manual. They're not important here. I think Gadge was trying to point out that there are three different alternator setups available. From the pics you posted it looks like there is only one green wire into the rectifier cube and one red wire out so you have the little 1A charge system. This is just background information.

Good news that the Honda solenoid still functions. As Gadge says the can protects the internals from muck and moisture. You will need to carefully re secure the top to it. Carefully reposition the rubber seal that is pinched in the photo and try to clip the top back down. It may just click back. If not you'll need to try and secure it with a tyrap or two and depending on the condition of the rubber seal once it's repositioned a nice thin bead of silicon may be the go too. The key here is that the top needs to be secured to the can and that the inside is protected from water a dirt.


Cheers,

G'day prd,
Image shows new solenoid with the earth lug on the black & white wire.
This is also how Bondys solenoid is wired in his images above.

I wasn't going to add confusion by talking about charging yet.

Regarding circuit protection.

The concept formula is:
Load current < or = fuse size < or = carry carrying capacity of cable.

load current in amps (must be less than or equal to) fuse size (must be less than or equal to) what the cable an carry in amps.