OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Another SB45 to add to the restore list

Hi all,

Have recently picked up a SB45 17" at a local auction house over the weekend.

Main plan is to get it stripped, cleaned up and working happily.

I'm currently at work right now so do not have detailed pictures.

From what I have read it is a dual rail model, so post '75?
running the clunker 3hg B&S motor.
little smokey when running,
and takes a number of pulls to get started.
I'll put this down to being old and in need of a tune
as well as having an old spark plug in it. (I haven't changed anything)

it is missing what looks to be the governor spring on the carby,
so I'll just control the revs myself

A few concerns, The clutch housing that fits onto the keyway / shaft of the motor has some internal damage.
it looks as though the bolt holding it in has come loose and has been smacking itself against the shaft.

The frame has previous crack repair but I haven't looked at it in depth. (I've owned it for 24hrs)

The blades definitely need some love as well as the edge knife.
from having a quick look they look straightish
with a poor excuse for a paint job peeling off it.

Hoping to clean it up and make it look somewhat pretty,
I have read the brand and colour of paint to use so will get onto that eventually,
will get the body cleaned up and dings removed / rust repaired before looking at this.

The chrome handle bars have some surface rust spots on them but they cleaned up with a quick rub down with steel wool.

The Catcher itself has rust holes in the bottom.
so unsure whether to try and get it repaired or write it off and purchase an after market catcher and paint it up.

Now the long road for repair..

More details to come including engine number / chassis number etc when I get back to it.

Some more!

Hi Noomz,

I'm glad to see you've managed to pick this old warrior up and with any luck return it back to it's former glory.

Just a quick one,

Before you do anything I'd sort the engine out and get it running correctly as it should while it's still firmly mounted. Once you've got that sorted I'd then start with the task of totally stripping it and bagging up / labeling all the parts for safe keeping. The chassis will be your next thing to tackle and sort out the cracked rails. This is rather common on the twin railers, so check out the following thread as it's quite good in showing how to repair a cracked rail without it being obvious.

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=64389&page=3

This is what we call the Gusset repair method and it's the most unobtrusive way of doing the job and tying the original mounting nuts into the job and adding strength which will reduce the flexing of the rails at that mount point, which would have the same issue arise in a couple of years with only standard welding of the original steel rails was being done.

I shall have a closer look at the photos you've just put up and give you some more info a bit later, but thank you for the extra shots.

BTW it seems that you are going to require some associated clutch parts and they are all available in our online store as are all other mainstream bits and pieces. Just click on the "Online Store" link at the top left hand side of your screen in the site links section and you'll find all the bits and pieces you need. Remember buying all your parts together reduces the overall freight costs.

Can you please supply me with some more close up shots of the clutch assembly as that's obviously what's sped up your rails in cracking much faster.


Cheers,
BB

Cheers for that!

apart from it being a biatch to start
once started it runs well.
and when warmed up it will start first pull.

only time it was smokey was when at low speed and I open the throttle up.
do these even have stem seals?
I'd consider just an old motor.
I'll do an oil change / spark plug over the weekend.
would anyone happen to have the NGK / B&S part number for the spark plug?


Unsure of the type of welding that was used in the repair job,
but will be sure to go over it in good light.

I saw the post where a user had TIG welded some support bars underneath.
it looked good.


*edit!*

I'll get some more pictures for you!
It isn't a cotter pin holding onto the shaft,
just a single bolt which looks to possibly have been tapped in at a later time because there is remains of an old screw there too.

The inside of the clutch housing on the motor side has sustained damage internally and has broken bits off which you can see above.

I'll have a browse of the shop,
There is sure to be some bits needed.

Thanks again for the welcome!

NGK is BR2LM should make a little difference to starting , choke is a tad of a worry sometimes as they need it for cold start up but once worked out its a pleasure .
oil change helps too often with only a little smoke ? but use S.A.E.30 not a multigrade as they use it faster . does it have the button choke you pull out to start ? if so , pull it out , try starting and it will kick , then push it in , start again and should run nicely with a little warming up .

hope it helps ... , Dave ....... and welcome to the forums

Great, Because I don't know the age of the plug and it's a cheap replacement.

I'd dare say it's mixtures too.
The throttle, when opening it all the way will automatically open the choke up which I thought was nifty.
Not sure if it's supposed to do that or not??

It takes about 10 pulls to get a splutter out of it
then it will kick into life.

see how you go with new plug and oil change , then just dont leave the choke on full , they are a good setup yes just a matter of getting the feel for it now full choke and a try for life . then off a little and see if it runs if not then we get further into it , fresh fuel i hope ??

might be your just giving it too much choke , flooding the poor old dear ?

Yep, Fresh fuel that I use in my pressure washer.
its 95ron
however for an engine that old.. Maybe I should mix up a batch with lead replacement additive?

For my starting would be - Open throttle to full and the choke comes out
give it about 5 pulls with nothing, then take choke off give it a few more pulls
then finally choke on again
final pull and it comes to life in a cloud of oily smoke.

good place to start , service it then see how it goes , new plug clean filter oil change all the good gear , cheaper too then see how it is . adjust the mixture screw . in as far as it goes (just seat it) then out 1 1/2 turns its a good starting point , seat it = just until it stops but NO MORE or you will do damage to the tip then almost impossible to adjust .
try that see how it goes then let us know