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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Just a bolt and nut, no matter how hard you tighten the handle slips. Is this what was on before, if so how can I get it so the handle doesn't slip.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hello tiger

I'm far from an expert on this but it is possible this design was free-floating -
meaning that the handle was free to travel within the confines of the bracket stops.
Apparently it was a feature ...

Hope this helps.
--------------------------
JACK

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Thanks Cyberjack that does help and it makes sense, just don't know how useful that is though. Bit disconcerting when handles move as you're mowing.

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 693
Qualified Senior
From the wear it looks like it has been moving for a long time. Put a tack of weld on it, or drill a second hole and put a small bolt through if the movement worries you.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Thanks Trev yeah it does look a little worn. Apart from emptying the fuel tank are there any other precautions to take before adding some tack welds?

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 693
Qualified Senior
Just make sure there is no debris build up that could catch, and have some water handy just in case. Alternatively you could remove the mounting brackets from the base to tack it.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
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Qualified Senior
Thanks again Trev, what about fumes, I remember hearing horror stories about welders that underestimated the fumes when welding and there were explosions.

Joined: Jan 2009
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
Tiger, you must not weld within several feet of a fuel tank, whether it is full or empty.

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 693
Qualified Senior
Most of those horror stories were people welding or cutting a fuel tank/drum that they had emptied but vapor remained rather than welding something near by but it never hurts to err on the side of safety, especially with a plastic tank that could be punctured by hot slag. Funny thing is a full tank is less likely to explode than an empty one. As I suggested earlier, remove the handle and brackets and then weld them.

Last edited by aussietrev; 23/08/15 08:49 PM.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
I agree that removing the parts and welding them on the bench is the way to go. Rendering a tank safe to weld near, is a very difficult and time-consuming process. In warm weather an "empty" tank emits petrol vapour, so the region around it sometimes contains an explosive mixture. If it ignites, the small explosion can envelope the tank, causing rapid temperature rise and the emission of a lot more petrol vapour, which sustains the fire. Then air enters the tank, an explosive mixture develops inside the tank, and you get the famous earth-shaking kaboom.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
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Qualified Senior
Thanks Grumpy and Trev, am an amateur welder never done anything that had fuel in it. Maybe I'll just use a bolt grin


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