OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Edgers Two Stroke Edgers Victa Power Torque Tilt a Cut - Blade removal

Hi Guys,

I recently picked up this Power Torque Tilt a Cut for a whole $10. It�s a 1990 model but it is in excellent condition for its age and has obviously had very little use as you can see from the photos.

Apart from the coil lead being broken and a perished belt it had no other obvious faults. Anyhow I stripped it right back which included taking the blade shaft off simple because you can�t remove the engine without removing the blade shaft which goes through the frame.

The engine and frame all went back together really well and the engine fired second pull. Not bad for something I suspect has been sitting around for a number of years.

After a full service including:

New Drive Belt
All new Primer and Start O Ring rings (Manifold was ok)
New Carby needle
New Head Gasket � after cleaning the piston and rings
New pull cord � existing one was frayed

The engine is how running spot on after bit of smoke to start off.

I now however have a problem. I tried to remove the blade nut and it won�t budge simply because the pulley keeps turning on the belt shaft. The nut isnt rusted however I tried a little heat and still no change.

I was hoping somebody would have a method for jamming the belt pully or not so it doesn�t spin. I can then simply change the blade to the new round type and finish the project. I have tried everything but I am sure somebody has a method that is very simple.

Thanks
Peter

My method is very old and crude, Peter. It is much more suitable before you put the new belt on, though. You simply put a wedge-shaped object, such as the end of the right sized flat-blade screwdriver, between the belt and the pulley on the side where the belt is moving into the pulley as you unscrew the nut. Hold the screwdriver handle with one hand, and the spanner with the other, and undo the nut. This will only work if the nut is not going to put up much of a fight, and you don't mind damaging the belt through excess tension (which is why I'd do it before replacing the belt). If it is really rusted up, however, after a long soak in Penetrene I wrap something around the pulley and hold it with a Stillson wrench. The limitation with that method is that if a whole lot of torque is required, you'll end up having to remove the wrapping, and the pulley will be first scarred, then if necessary crushed, by the Stillson. You'll get it off though, or twist off the shaft.

If you are going to ditch the blade anyway, can't you lock the blade in a vice and then remove the nut? The blade shouldn't turn on the shaft. Alternatively, get an oxy torch and cut the nut off. Just use a welding tip and when you have the nut cherry red turn up the oxygen and you should be able to blow the nut away without damaging the thread on the shaft. Have done it plenty of times with frozen nuts when all else failed.

My recent restore was also seized on, an overnight soak in 'Yield' and use of an air driven impact wrench saw it come off.

Good point Bushie, the rattle gun is always the first thing to try. The only thing likely to stop it working is the very low inertia of the shaft and pulley, but if the belt is tight and the blade is long, it has a fair chance of working, with no damage to anything. With a disk blade, the chance of success is quite good.

Thanks for all the suggestions as per usual.

I ended up investing in an air driven inpact wrench - It came off within a couple of seconds. Its something I will use in the future so I considered it a wise investment.

Note you cant stick the blade in the vice because the pulley connected to the shaft just turns. I did try using the stillson wrench but I just couldnt grip it properly.

When and if the nut is seized just soak it and hit it with a rattle gun as per Bushie's suggestion. Photo of the finished product is below - starts first pull and is much easier to use with the nice new round blade.

Cheers Guys

Jaffa

The rattle gun is a very useful tool, Peter, not only because it saves a lot of time, but mainly because it does a lot less damage. Be cautious however if you ever feel tempted to use it for putting things together, rather than taking them apart. Its torque control is very poor indeed, and of course if you've cross threaded a nut and then drive it with a rattle gun, you'll destroy both bolt and nut.

Glad to see you got it sorted. It has me wondering though. Doesn't the blade key onto the shaft? Does it just rely on clamping pressure from the nut to stop it turning? Otherwise I can't see how if it is held in a vice the shaft can still turn.

Rattle guns are awesome if used carefully, I would still be struggling with breaker bars and other items if I hadnt of invested in one, now I have 3 of them, a basic 1/2" drive cheapy for the power equipment and a dearer 1/2" one for automotive stuff, and a "man size" 1" drive one for when you really mean business, the 1" drive unit is an overkill for most applications but in a case where I want something apart and it doesnt really matter if it breaks, it will either break the rusted bolt and nuts bond or just tear it off.

Thanks for the advice on the rattle gun. It has been noted.

Their is no key on the shaft, the blade to the best of my knowledge is held on by clamping pressure only. Concave washers are present on each site of the blade I am assuming to ensure the blade plate doesnt come loose, quite similar to the victa blade plate washer concept I think. Happy to be told otherwise if thats not the case. I am sure Grumpy will clarify.

Joe, since purchasing the rattle gun I have used it for a number of jobs. It makes my compressor work hard thats for sure.

Cheers
Jaffa

I think your explanation is very likely the correct one, Peter. By using domed spring steel washers (Belleville washers), and tightening the nut until they have squashed a bit, means that the odd torsional impact caused by hitting a concrete edge or two with the cutter, does not make them lose driving torque afterwards. With a mower, hitting large pieces of concrete with a bar blade is hopefully rather uncommon, but it happens constantly with an edge cutter, at least when I'm driving it.