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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
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Great thread fella's, it has been very illuminating smile

Iceman, I love seeing an Aussie mower over in the UK.

Before this thread, I was never aware that you could have AC and DC supplies from a ride on engine and you have shown the difference in great detail. Love the charging light.

Thanks to all.

Last edited by CyberJack; 25/04/16 02:36 AM. Reason: Topic heading.

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How far do you have to have the speed control advanced from idle to have your light go green when the headlights are on?

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Originally Posted by Iceman
Not so! I found today that if it is removed then no charge goes to the battery!

That's a bit weird. The only reason I can see to have a diode in the mower harness is as a blocking diode, to prevent the battery running the hour meter. The diode on the engine side of the plug is already performing the rectifier function.
Unless there's more than two terminals in the diode plug, and it has more than one circuit?

That wiring diagram isn't really clear enough to be a good circuit diagram, so I had to speculate a bit about the exact circuitry in that area of it. Whoops! That owners manual isn't in the ODK Ride-On manual library, either.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Sep 2014
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Originally Posted by grumpy
How far do you have to have the speed control advanced from idle to have your light go green when the headlights are on?


When the headlights are off, it is a quarter throttle to make the light go green.

Headlights on- AC switch- this would obviously make no difference to charging, I forgot to say, I retained the original 21w bulbs which came with the lamps.

DC switch- full throttle and the light is still red.

This doesn't concern me as the LED colours are-

�Less than 11.1V = Slow Red flash

�11.1V - 12.6V = steady Red

�12.6V - 15.4V = steady Green

�15.4V - 16.1V = steady Yellow

�Above 16.1V = Eye catching Yellow flash sequence

I have not got a test meter on it yet or run it for a long time with the lights on DC to see what the battery does, but to be honest my initial plan was if I did need to use it in the dark/dusk I would use the AC side, unless low engine speed or tick over was needed then use the DC side to make the lights brighter.


Originally Posted by Gadge
That's a bit weird. The only reason I can see to have a diode in the mower harness is as a blocking diode, to prevent the battery running the hour meter. The diode on the engine side of the plug is already performing the rectifier function.
Unless there's more than two terminals in the diode plug, and it has more than one circuit?

Yes I would imagine that if there was some kind of emergency and the diode failed I could always bypass the hour meter all together and run the wire from the engine side of the plug to the ignition switch/battery , this is how it runs in my 1988 MTD Lawnflite, no other wiring at all




Last edited by Iceman; 21/11/14 06:04 AM.

Simple is efficient
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Does that mean you didn't fit the LED light bulbs you bought? Those results are exactly what I'd expect with incandescent bulbs, but I thought you were using the LED ones, which is why I asked the question.

Joined: Sep 2014
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Originally Posted by grumpy
Does that mean you didn't fit the LED light bulbs you bought? Those results are exactly what I'd expect with incandescent bulbs, but I thought you were using the LED ones, which is why I asked the question.

I didn't fit them, honestly the ones that I had are total rubbish at night, obviously cheap does not mean good when it comes from China through eBay!!


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If they give less light than your 21W incandescent bulbs, it seems they may be stretching the truth, and you need something with more than "21W equivalent". I see that the 30W LED bulbs are nearly all headlight bulb type, with the wrong base for your lights. I only saw one person on ebay selling them with a bayonet base.

As you know, when your red light is on, your battery is discharging despite the engine running at maximum speed.

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 47
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very nice and informative thread.
I have the same engine and the battery is not charging and neither the hour meter working.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
we can see that the ac/dc is not connected.
neither the orange from ignition or the purple wire going to hour metre.
this is not the original engine and obviously they didn't do the modif properly.
how can i fix it?
thanks
Jerome

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 47
Novice
the drawing i have is not really clear.
[Linked Image]

*Now if i connect the orange wire from ignition directly to DC output, will i charge the battery this way?

*Also i don't understand where they take the positive power for hour meter looks like a red wire from the body (that doesn't make sense.)



Last edited by Jeromeo; 01/02/15 03:12 AM.
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That diagram does not make much sense by itself. It seems to be just part of the mower's wiring diagram.

The Briggs engine has a single wire that should be black, and a pair of wires that could be various colours, that connect to the mower itself. The single black wire is the kill wire: its only job is to stop the engine when it is grounded. People sometimes make the mistake of connecting this wire to +12 Volts when the engine is running: don't do it, that will destroy the ignition module.

The other pair of wires are the alternator output. They are connected together at the alternator, but one of them has a diode in it somewhere along its length - usually near the output connector that connects to the mower's wiring harness. The wire with the diode supplies DC, the one without the diode supplies AC.

If your engine has an electric starter, there will be a heavy wire from the starter motor. Most likely the mower's wiring will have a solenoid to operate the starter, but this is not a part of the engine.

Joined: Sep 2014
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[quote=Iceman][quote=Gadge][quote=Iceman]


[Linked Image]
In this picture could you please tell me where the orange wire is connected.
I believe that the wire with red terminal and diode goes to the key switch and the other with black sleeve should go to 12v+ pin on hour meter.
Can somebody confirm this is the correct way to do it.

[Linked Image]

I definitely have a diode connected on the red output wire (DC output) and nothing on black output Wire (AC output)

thank you all for your precious information.
jerome

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Here is the wiring diagram for a Greenfield Evo 3 Mk 2:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

As you can see, it is not exactly wired up like a 787, it is pretty rudimentary stuff.

Here are some Evo 3 models, including one with an hour meter:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Can you match one of these diagrams to your mower?

Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 47
Novice
Thanks grumpy.
no nothing like this. But my mower is Evolution 2000 MKII with 15.5HP B&S.(originally B&S 16HP)

here is my configuration. just with harness 5 and 6 messed up by previous owner.
[Linked Image]


I successfully connect DC output directly to Key switch so now its charging at least and also I connected the Hour meter to key switch to.
So the clock tick now as soon as i turn ignition on. i don't really worry so much as i don't leave contact on if I'm not mowing. i may Add a Diode later on so the hour meter will only tick if engine is on.
Cheers.

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I think you were very fortunate that the previous tenant did so little damage to the wiring.

Joined: Sep 2014
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Originally Posted by grumpy
I think you were very fortunate that the previous tenant did so little damage to the wiring.

yes i know especially when everything else on this mower is assembly up side down... this one was an easy fix. but only because of this forum.
thanks again guys.

jerome.

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I'll close this thread.

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