OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Rover Ride On Mower Rover Rancher 2 Model 11046 - Wiring

Now that the Greenfield is done, on to the next one.
A Rover Rancher 2 Model 11046, are the manuals available here at all. The motor is a B&S and codes are left to right-: 25207 0178-01 79072511. So I am assuming the last numbers are the year 25/07/1979 with a 11 hp motor.I will start on the motor first and then the gearbox which only has 1st, it looks like to drive gears a worn mainly the main bottom/crown gear, but that can wait.
I have a B&S manual but how do I tell if it is the right one(copyright1992), and is it easier to pull the motor out or in place

The rover rancher 2 is in the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

The engine is 25 cubic inches displacement (420 cc), and the 25 cubic inch engines were 11 hp. However you seem to have left out a digit in the first block of numbers (the Model) so that is as far as I can get. It was made on 25 July 1979, as you said, but the 11 on the end of the Code is not the engine's advertised power output, it is the Briggs plant number of the place where it was manufactured. Unfortunately like most of the original Briggs engine plants, that one is closed and gone, so I can't tell you where it was. Briggs now only makes overhead valve engines in the US - the plants that could not get an OHV gig have been closed. All side valve engines are now made in the Chongqing plant.

The most suitable technical manual for your engine is the B&S Service and Repair Instructions 1984, which along with all the others, is available in the engine manuals section of this site.

If you post the full Model number, I should be able to tell you a bit more about your engine.

model 252707 type 0178-01 code 79072511

Sorry about that

tried to download the manual but keep getting You do not have access to download this attachment.

Am I doing something wrong.

I can tell you more now, besser. The engine is 25 cubic inches, second design generation, with vertical crankshaft, Flo-Jet carburetor, plain main bearings, and a 12 Volt gear-drive electric starter with alternator. Here is the Illustrated Parts List:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6lttJVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/msoBGL-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

The IPL will tell you many things, including that it has a reciprocationg Synchro-Balance system in the crankcase to reduce vibration, and its carburetor is a Large One-Piece Flo-Jet. Bear in mind that the Synchro-Balance system relies on the engine always being filled to the correct level with clean engine oil. The results if you fail in this will be dire.

Access to the Parts and Manuals sections is by subscription only. There are separate subscriptions for various sections.

I am trying to find the power supply to the starter motor, I have power to the regulator, but the only wire that goes to the starter is the black earth lead ? . Well I am assuming it is the earth as it is black. I have power to the hour meter which then goes to the contact button which when pushed no power seems to seems to come out of the other terminal. And on the on/off switch one side is connected to the motor like a earth and then down to the magneto on the fly wheel, so is this power or a earth on/off ? I just don,t see how it all works

First, it is customary for positive starter cables to be black. There is no ground lead for the starter, because it is grounded to the engine block by its mounting.

Solenoids normally have three terminals: two high-current ones, and one low current one. One of the high current ones goes to the starter, and the other to the battery. The low current terminal is connected to the starter switch. When 12 Volts is applied to the low current terminal, the iron core of the solenoid moves downward violently. The thick copper disk on the bottom of the core hits the two high current terminals, creating a current path from one to the other, which suddenly applies 12 V to the starter motor.

thanks, I will try a new contact button. Maybe there is no power coming out of the old one.

If you trace the white wire back from the solenoid to the key switch or starter button (whichever it has), you can see whether 12 Volts appears there when you hit the button. Problems with the multi-function key switches are common, especially on older machines such as yours.

I have ordered a new button, what amp should it be as it is only a small wire ?

Current usually only passes through the solenoid activating wire for a short time while the engine cranks, so the wire doesn't have much of a heating problem, which is why it isn't especially thick. It's been a long time since I've measured the current, but I think it is something like 8 Amps for a car starter solenoid. Your solenoid is very likely one intended for a car starter.

Ok. All should be good then, as it said it can be used a car starter. and it is water resistant

How do I tell if there is power coming from the magneto to the spark plug and what is the correct gap between the flywheel and the magneto. I put a lead on to the earth lead ( no battery ) and then on to the spark plug thread, and there is no spark or is this wrong way to do it.

The gap between the flywheel and the magneto should be 0.012", or the thickness of a standard visiting card.

The way you wired it should produce spark, but it involves extra wire and hence extra uncertainty. Just set the controls in the start position, take the spark plug out of the cylinder head, reconnect the spark plug to its lead, hold the metal base of the spark plug against a bare metal part of the engine (usually the cylinder head) and pull the starter cord. If there is no spark, there is an ignition system fault. Most times, the fault is that for one reason or another, the kill wire is grounded. However there are other possibilities which we can go through once you perform that test.

What is the switch for, a earth to the magneto. As you can see the earth comes off the body of the motor, to the switch and then from the switch to the magneto. Where does the power come from to create the pulse for the spark plug, off the flywheel and the magneto ?

The black wire coming out the magneto in the bottom picture, should go to the switch built into the back of the rack-and-pinion speed control mechanism. Yours has been re-wired by a previous tenant, and now has a toggle switch on the dash replacing the original switch on the speed control. That wire (black out of the magneto, and inexplicably switching to red halfway to the toggle switch, just to confuse all later tenants) is the kill wire. You ground it to switch off the engine. When you are checking spark, if you do not get a spark, you should disconnect that black-becoming-red wire, in case it is grounded due to a malfunction.

Like all magnetos, yours generates low voltage in the primary coil as the flywheel magnet passes the laminated iron poles of the magneto. At exactly that moment the breaker points behind the flywheel open, and the sudden collapse of the magnetic field in those iron poles creates a very high voltage in the secondary coil, also in the magneto (wound around the outside of the primary coil). If the kill wire is grounded, the live side of the breaker points is grounded, so no voltage is induced in the magneto secondary coil.

Thanks Grumpy
I have checked the gaps on both the spark plug and the magneto to fly wheel and are correct. I will try the plug in another mower later to see that it ok.
What is the correct spark plug, it has a Champion CJ8 is this correct ?

Yes, the CJ8 is the correct type for the side valve Briggs engines.

Spark plug is good