OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Full Crank Engine, Super 600

Thanks bigted.
Did some measurements today with a vernier and as far as I can tell the end of the jet go's into the tube in the body (?)
Some pic's:



This is one of the G4 body's.


This is the three jets from "G4's" on left and one from a Powertorque on right. They are all plain faced.

Sorry their not as sharp as I would have hoped.

Took a lot to get the Super started today, may be a combination of me putting to much oil in the crank, bore etc and the 2 stroke fuel getting a little old. Did however notice a not very convincing spark unless turned over pretty fast (i.e. drill). Comments?.
Once I used the drill she fired and ran very well. Warmed up at a fast idle for about 5 minutes, then ran through rev range a bit to max about half throttle, idled down then ran out of fuel after about 3 more minutes. Will get fresh fuel on Monday.
~

Bushie, they're all the same jet, off the carbies with the fixed emulsion tube, like the one in the pic. Check the air gap on the coil to flywheel for spark, otherwise try another coil to see if it improves.

Thanks for your quick reply.
So the longer length body. black poppet and the idle screw mean nothing?
I thought I read the air gap isn't adjustable on these?

The different bodies, and black poppet valve definitely mean something but be careful as the carbs have probably been bastardized over the years. I think the idle screw caps are interchangeable but i can't recall for sure, try them and see if they fit.

Well it seems like I haven't even seen a G4, the only thing I can think off is there must have been some differences during the change over period.
The early LM or late G4, with the emulsion tube, seems to be running well, with the short testing (running in) period given to it. Have some other commitments to attend to and haven't got back to it yet. Getting anxious as it is so close to being finished now and pretty positive it is only electrics in the way. BTW magnets seem strong as picked up a 12" screw driver no worries [thanks Grumpy (archives)].

Any positive answer on whether the air gap on the coil is adjustable on these?

It seemed to me that there were only two threaded holes and no slots to slide the coil in or out(?)
Will try another coil too.

Still very keen to get the right muffler.

Managed to get back to the rebuild for a short time this evening. There is a little room for some adjustment in the mounting holes on the coil, could get a feeler gauge into one side OK but the arm on the right (looking at the carby) requires some further thought. Tested the coil, and one other one, with a multimeter and believe them both to be within parameters.

As for the air gap, i'm not 100% sure of the gap but the ol' business card trick normally works for me.

Thought I had read about this somewhere:

Thread: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38865

Particularly Tomo's post:

and Mark's post:

Mark and Tomo, could you expand on this, ie have you tried it and does it work in practice?

Hello Bushie,
Thanks Big ted and Grumpy for steering Bushie in the right direction regarding his tight rings. (terrible oversight by me)

Bushie, that thread above is referring to an internal magneto.



I have measured the coil above and got 6.1 kilo Ohms for the secondary coil and 1.24 Ohms for the primary coil.

Like Bigted, I use a card or visitors card like in the image and stick the magneto to the flywheel magnets, then torque the bolts down.

If you want to read some magneto patents, search magneto pdf's at freepatentsonline.
Some of these go into great depth.
Example:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4401096.pdf

Thanks Bigted and Mark.

First thing this morning changed to another module, a little improved spark, then used a snipped down card, same as you showed above Mark (penny finally dropped).
Pleased I didn't start drilling over sized holes, did realize there is enough play in original holes to allow such a small adjustment. This made another improvement in the sparks frequency, and probably would have been able to start engine with pull cord, but still not that evasive 'big blue spark'.
Studied how to check with multimeter last night, so tested with multimeter and found the primary coil was 10,930 ohms. Went to my Powerplus engine coil and checked that, was 6,060 and secondary OK. Cleaned the faces, gaped..... and Bingo! Big Blue Spark!!
Naturally put that on the Super and can now honestly join the 'Fist Pull Start Club"...from cold.



Needless to say am very happy with the outcome and should finish assembly tomorrow.

Hey Bushie,
as far as ignition modules go the power torque module is fine to plug and play on your full crank engine its much the same as the original module .

the post on fitting full cranks with electronic ignition has to do with the older points system as it has timing adjustment.
its looking good !!
cheers tomo

Thanks to Mark Electric, Big ted, Chris125, Deejay, Tomo4192 and Grumpy who helped me immensely during this rebuild and posting. Your help with the ring expander problem Bigted was of great importance, along with the carby and coil help, very much appreciated.

Oh well they say a picture is worth a thousand words:












Still waiting to get the 'windrower' attended to, will probably paint it black, like the '24's', as I'm really over that cheap orange.

Will slash some grass and do a summary soon.

Well Bushie, i think the end result looks awesome. Well done!

A couple of more shots, maybe never this fresh and clean again.....





then into the work!



Started first pull from cold again, warmed up for a few minutes then knocked of the tops of some thin grass for 15 minutes, varying the speed, then into the above. Crikey it's got some power! Started second pull from hot.

Tried to adjust governed speed but the revs it was doing was freaking me out, that is especially with no load, and it didn't seem to make any difference.
Earlier in the rebuild, when looking at the three stripped carbys, I picked what I thought by eye, was the heavier gauge of the three outer (long) springs, and used that.
Maybe a case of bigger not necessarily better?

Great job with the rebuild mate, looks great.
You should be able to knock the revs back by turning the venturi in the cowling where the governor vacuum line connects, just push it in a little and turn from memory, clockwise?? i think. It does not take much to make a difference.

Thanks Luke, very good explanation of what I was trying to do today. Sorry didn't make myself clear in last post. I turned it both ways but couldn't notice a difference, meanwhile the engine was screaming it's a$$ off, which can't be good for the engine. I didn't have the courage to keep persisting with it.

To slow your engine down, here are some other things to try:
# Remove the hose were the red arrow is pointing above. You should not be able to blow air through it (should be sealed by the diaphragm).
# You can try a lighter spring in the carby.
# You can place a shim or shims under the rotating cam inside the carby.

Others here may have more tips, or expand on this post.

Awesome Bushie looks the goods best part is your got the old 2t Victas almost worked out no Victa 2t you can't take on now good stuff....Myself I'm not fond of the older black poppet valve carbies, I find the newer carbies off the power torque mowers to be a better carb Victa not change them for nothing...

Finally got back to look at the Super. Had read, in the meantime, that the outer long spring in the carby would only account for a few hundred revs, was certainly looking for a larger adjustment than that.
First did the test Mark suggested, blow in the governor tube, sure enough air was passing through. Tested another one that was rebuilt, just to confirm the amount of air pressure. Popped the cap off..... yeah the diaphragm was indeed crinkled down, just a little, simple fix.

Gave her a run (second pull start from cold this time) and thought it could rev a fair bit more so turned the venturi control, which Luke suggested. This time there there were definite substantial changes in revs, albeit from sounding to low to to high, probably should have persisted longer.

Thanks Chris for the accolade. Took on board re the power torque carb and was thinking of fitting one, but thought I would give the old carby another try.

Never the less a positive improvement for the better. Thanks heaps guys.

One thing that helped my rebuild was this lever pictured below. Had read on ODK a few folk were having a awkward time remounting the top clip on the muffler.

A small rod is put through the hole in the end of the spring (in this case a nail)
I scraped off the electrical tape on the front side of lever to allow freer sliding of the nail down the lever. the tape was put on to preserve the paint.


This is a side view, the chamfered edge goes toward the muffler to allow the nail to run down. Probably would round this off more, almost to points and up the lever more, before I do another one. I did hold pressure on the lever and tap the nail down, a little on both sides, with a tack hammer.


It works really well!


This idea was given to me by an old time mower repairer.