OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Tech Talk chonda ohv

Gday , I have a sanli with oil running out the breather hose while the motor is running, everything looks normal,but I'm not sure if the little yellow valve is up the right way and if there's a part missing or not.


The motor runs fine ,I just can't stop the oil . There is a gap under the valve and i can see right through and I can see part of the bottom oilseal and bearing . Is this for oil or heat to pass through and there is another little drain hole which I have unblocked. But before I put it back together ' I'd like to make sure. Thankyou.

Hi Rob. First, had you taken the oil separator (circled in green) out and put it where it is? It has to go in the PCV compartment, at the tip of the green arrow. Its purpose is to strain out the oil from the ventilation gas, and return it to the crankcase through the tiny return hole.


Second, the pale yellow disk (circled in red) is of a different and I think inferior design to the Honda one. Honda uses a hard flat brown plastic disk, which looks fibre-reinforced. After a very long time, the Honda one wears somewhat in the center, where it hits the stop circled in yellow in the above picture. To see whether your disk is in the right way up, look at its center to see which side has been in frequent rapid contact with the stop.

Here is the Honda disk:


I think I'd be inclined to fit a genuine Honda disk.

Have you read this thread?
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=49601&page=2

Way down at the end of it there is an explanation of the Honda PCV system.

Thanks Grumpy, I remember that post well know . I have one wrecked honda so I hope that will do the job. I'll do that today and post results. Thankyou.

Just be careful that the genuine Honda one is not too worn, Ron. Here is one I've been reluctant to use, but haven't been disgusted enough with to throw away:


Edit: Also, don't forget to push a drill bit down through the drain hole at the bottom of the oil separator compartment. If that 1.8mm hole is blocked, you'll get exactly what you've been getting.

Grumpy, all went well with the honda valve' amazing how a little valve could do this. The hole was definatley unblocked before reassembly, so i had a good outcome and funny enough I've got another sanli to do so hope I havn't got the same problem because I don't have any more honda valves to spare. Are they hard to get new ?
Thankyou again Grumpy ,you got me out of another pickle once again.

It's all good Rob, it expands our case files in the archives. Also, I hadn't seen a chonda valve disk before, and now that I have, I'm not impressed.

When you swap a Honda hard fibre disk for a chonda plastic disk, I think it is best when possible to replace the tin cover (the "Breather Chamber Cap") as well, because the Honda one has a somewhat flat stop instead of the relatively pointed one used by the chonda:


The disc valve is called "Valve, Breather". The Honda Part Number is 04521511, but more importantly the "HP#" is 12372-879-000. It seems to be used in a huge variety of Honda engines. US List Price is only $1.87, but shipping to Australia is a problem as usual. There may be a way to get a decent-quality non genuine one, instead of that soft-looking plastic thing, but I didn't find one with a couple of minutes searching. You're at least as good at finding them as I am, so I'd best leave it to you.

I'll have a good search tonight, Grumpy in another thread you mentioned a part called the oil defencer I think, that tube when correctly installed ,is it ment to point in the direction the engine rotates ie bore or the other way or as it appears can it only go in one way

"Pipe, oil defense, P/N 1825702 HP# 12385-ZE6-000". Thanks for posting that picture, Rob. The crankshaft and camshaft obviously rotate in opposite directions in engines that have timing gears, and viewed from that end (the PTO end) the crankshaft rotates anticlockwise and the camshaft clockwise. However the defense pipe projects into the crankcase cover, not far from the oil slinger, which will have much more important effects on the amount of oil thrown at it. Incidentally I do not see that pipe as a masterstroke of Honda engineering - it looks like something they invented during the engine development process, after they found they had a problem.

Note that I don't know which chondas have plastic timing gears like yours. Honda has cast iron timing gears and camshafts in the GXV120 and GXV160 - of the GXV engines, they only have the plastic gear and cams in the GXV140. Of course the GCV engines have a plastic moulding that is timing sprocket and cam lobe all in one flat piece. It pivots on a loose steel shaft that slides through the center of it, so the timing gear/cam can be retimed, or completely replaced, in the blink of an eye. Just as well, too, since it is a bit prone to losing its timing.

If you would like anymore particular photos of this chonda I'm pulling the rest of it apart today .
Crankshaft Top seal is nhk tc 22. 35. 7. 33 , bottom seal nhk tc 25. 38. 7. 26.etc

I'd like to have a record of anything different from the Honda GXV160 that most of the chondas are copied from, Rob. I'm not sure there is much that is visibly different except the control linkages for the governor and choke - which you have already posted. As was reported in another thread, there are detail differences in some chonda flywheels and crankshafts which keep them from being interchangeable, but it is a whole study in itself to line the parts up beside Honda ones to show that. If you could show the ignition module mounting, we can see whether it follows the GXV120 design, or the one used on both GXV140 and GXV160. If you have the carburetor off, you could show the air cleaner housing, the carburetor insulator, and a general view of the carburetor.

Thanks for the offer.

Post edit: Note that this Sanli chonda is 140 cc displacement and is quite an accurate copy of the Honda GXV140. The plastic camshaft is the same as the GXV140 one and may be interchangeable with it. Note also that unlike Honda's design practice with the GXV120 versus the GX120, and the GXV160 versus the GX160, Honda designed the GXV140 separately from the GX140 and they do not even share the same stroke. Do not expect GX140 parts to fit a GXV140: some will, and some won't.

The gxv160 coil fits perfectly.





Let me know if you need more.thankyou.

The photo of the coil is for a gxv160 and I'm not sure if it will work on a chonda yet but I will give this a quick try when I put back together and let you know . As you can see the honda coil sits on there nicely but if I turn it over it doesn't and I'm not sure if I've got it sitting up the right way in the picture.

Thanks Rob. There is one point that may have been cleared up, and one that isn't clear yet.

Here is an ignition module from a GXV120:

Here is one from a GXV140:


Here is the mounting location on a GXV140, which is the same as your chonda:


I had thought that the GXV140 and GXV160 used the offset mounting points, which the GXV140 coil pictured above used. If my recollection is correct, the GXV120s I have only have the two mounting points for the symmetrical GXV120 coil. The GXV140 and GXV160 have the three mounting points so they could use either type of coil. I had been guessing that all GXV140 and GXV160 use the large coil with the offset mounting points, but you have shown a small coil with symmetrical mounting points, and you said it came off a GXV160. So, that is the first question: do GXV140 and GXV160 engines sometimes use the small ignition module?

The second question is, can I see the other side of the carburetor insulator please, and the intake port of the chonda? The reason I ask is that I'm not yet sure it is the same as a GXV160 insulator, which is a big thick object to transition from a round carburetor opening to a square port on the cylinder head, like this:


The GXV160 uses a giant inlet port, where the GXV120 and GXV160 both have the smaller ports, which do not require the giant insulator. Also, only the GXV160 has the vacuum port in the side of the insulator. The reason this matters, is that it may turn out 163 cc chondas have small inlet ports, which would reduce their power output below that if the GXV160.

The first question I don't know, to the second question






The last photo are two different insulaters ,both used on the same chondas and all the chondas so far are the same as per photo to my knowing. Sorry Grumpy but I'm bit confused. Tmrw I'll take the top of the gxv140 and take a photo of the coil and post.

Grumpy I have put a gxv160 carb on a gxv120 and it works well . The insulater doesn't seem to make a difference as it has a beveled circle and some insulaters have a beveled circle with one square edge to match the intake and both of these are found on chondas ,as far as I know both insulaters do the same job as per very last photo but the one in your photo and I'm only guessing the one in my photo is a full circle and they maybe a match to do the same job. Not sure , thankyou.

Rob, with regard to the two different ignition modules, I think I've found the answer in the GXV160 workshop manual:


It seems there were two different ignition units used on some GXV models: a conventional electronic unit (N type), and a capacitive discharge unit (A type). The small unit in my picture in the previous post was the N type and the large unit was the A type. I haven't yet seen an A type on a GXV120 - they may not have used them on that model. The alternative mounting points on some Honda cylinder blocks are for the A type, and may not be provided on GXV120 blocks, though they are on the GXV140 and GXV160 blocks.

The GXV160 intake ports remain unclear at the moment. The parts list shows the GXV140 having 16211-ZG9-000, which is the insulator shown second in your list, and the GXV160 having 16211-ZE7-000, which is the thicker insulator for a large square intake port.

The first insulator in your pictures is for the GXV120, which has a round intake port. The second is for the GXV140, which has a D shaped intake port. The GXV160 remains an unsolved mystery.

You probably know that the GXV120 and GXV140 have the same stroke and different bores. They share the same crankshaft, connecting rod, and many other parts. However they have different cylinder heads to suit the different bores.

The GXV160 (68 mm)has a larger bore than the GXV140 (64 mm) which itself has a larger bore than the GXV120 (60 mm). The GXV120 and GXV140 have the same stroke (42 mm) while the GXV160 has a longer (45 mm) stroke. It would be physically possible for them to share the same cylinder head.

So, thank you for that, your post has led to unravelling the matter of the two ignition modules. The matter of the intake ports and carburetor insulators remains mysterious.

Thanks Grumpy , that was very interesting,I will take more notice of which insulater is for which in the future .

Hi Grumpy , I just rebuilt a honda gxv 120 which had no carby ,fuel tank or throttle mechanism or control plate so I had a sanli powercut donar with a huayi carby. I put only one o-ring with new idle jet. After new piston rings etc all put back together minus cowl and pull start etc it worked perfectly. This was a fun little job till I get original parts.
The new idle jet was a very tight fit so I didn't think it would work in the huayi carby but it did perfectly, the original huayi idle jet looked a little different to the new one ( the metal jet insert )which you can't really see that good . The one on the left is original huayi idle jet.

Thanks Rob. I haven't encountered Huayi carburetors yet, only Keihin on real Hondas, and Ruixing on chondas. It seems Huayi is a Ruixing competitor.

Was the Huayi idle jet 0.38 mm, like the Keihin and Ruixing idle jets?

As you know, Keihin idle jets are all plastic, like the Huayi, while at least some Ruixings have the brass bush in the idle jet. In principle I like the brass bush better - it should be easier to clean without damaging it.

It will be interesting and useful to find out more about the details of various chondas. As I've said before, I think we'll all be using them before long.

I can put a 0.3 drill in the new idle jet easily, put in the huayi could only just manage to push the drill in, with 0.35 drill I cannot get in either idle jet. The ruixing had the same result as the huayi but the keikhin I could fit a 0.35 drill. The next drill size I have is 0.4 and doesn't fit in any.