OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Finding and Swapping Wanted G3 carby

Gotcha, thanks for the lesson.

Tiger,

I have one thing that I want you to do for the test.

1. Remove the muffler and air filter hose and make sure that you are in a well vented area and then try to start the mower as normal.

Once you have done that let me know what happens. Note do not us start you bastard when doing this and you might have to pull it over few times if you still have fuel in the crankcase.

Hey there Tiger I dont want to but into this, But when you said this.

"I noticed though that the spindle holding the float came off easily. I had some brazing rod so i cut up a bit and its now a nice tight fit within the carby body."

That nice peice of brazing rod that is such a nice fit now, does the float pivot on it properly?
and by the way the "spindle" holding the float is not designed to be tight, the bowl on the carby holds it in.
Just my 2c worth, good luck.

Hi Bruce,

Have been practically operating under these conditions ie muffler is not well attached as only one muffler rod is on the engine and I don't have any muffler clips. Air hose is borrowed from a spare powertorque, not a great fit but best I can do for the moment. I will try the test as you described and let you know.
By the way I replaced the gasket in the carby. Also got the governor working properly and now the butterfly valve responds to the throttle cable. Spark plug is slightly wet but still sparks outside the engine, if there's a spark is it still considered flooding?

Jonesy, don't consider this butting in if it helps. Actually cut up another bit of rod that wasn't such a tight fit, I've realised that the bowl does the job of holding it in. Unfortunately the mower still will not run for more than a few seconds at best.

Tried as you suggested this morning, no change in mower's behaviour, did not even sound remotely interested in starting. Pulled the cord 30 or 40 times. Did notice that there is petrol on the engine outlet to the muffler.

Might not be a carby problem. I'd take off the carby and muffler,get a torch and look at the bore. Especially on the muffler side,see if it has makes in the bore. With what you can see of the rings see if their is any cracks in the rings. Sounds like one I had a few years ago would start if I gave it fuel but wouldn't run. Turned out it had scratchs in the bore and both rings where cracked.

I've started thinking that too but i looked at the piston on both sides and they're not too bad. Rings move freely, no sign of cracks. The carby now leaks badly and it seems to be leaking where the gasket is. I've replaced the gasket, lapped each half of the carby, changed the o-ring in the jet, ensured that the spindle does not foul the other half of the carby. This leaves the float/needle which seemed to work outside the carby. Spark plug i think is too damp as well, stick it in spark plug hole, no priming and is still pretty damp. I'm ready to give up

Have checked the top and bottom crank seals? Perhaps they are leaking. Failing that maybe start taking pictures maybe we can see what's wrong.

Have not investigated these seals, do I need to disassemble anything to get at these? I noticed a bit of a wet spot underneath the crankcase but there's plenty of fuel there which I assumed came from the flooding carby.

Tiger,

Replace the bottom seal and your problems should be solved.

Bruce, the carby is still leaking badly so I assume that's a separate problem. Any other tests I can do to confirm that the bottom seal is faulty? This seems to contradict Tomo's earlier suggestion that the crankcase compression was ok (or can it still be ok with a bad seal?) Also is the process the same as for changing a seal on a Powertorque?

Have taken a photo of the bottom seal, no dampness or deformity that I can see. Tried to get the boss off but no luck, seems I need a 2 jaw puller, only have a 3 jaw. Will get a 3 jaw soon or is there another way?

i think your crank case seals are okay, if you have a wet plug the crankcase is fine , your bottom seal looks quiet healthy , your rings may be worn out and only sealing with extra fluid. but i think you can rule out crankcase compression. you could remove your cylinder and inspect them. gaskets are still easy to get or make

You can get the boss off without a pulley. Put it on a hard metal surface ie a vice. Then smack it with a hammer a few times. If it doesn't come off turn it around and smack again keep doing this it will come off. Just don't smack it that hard that damage could be done. Then get a screw driver and just touch the inside of the seal if its soft and flexes great if its hard and doesn't move no good replace. It may due to sitting and not be leaking yet but has enough to allow a lack of compression. To check top seal you would have to take off flywheel and ignition. Now you said it had spark just have a look at it when it sparks and see what the colour of the spark is to see,whether it is a yellow/orange colour or blue spark.

Thanks Blumbly, have poked at the seal as best I can with the boss on and it feels soft, can't see any liquid around there but it was night. Spark is definitely blueish.
Think I may have resolved the carby issue ie it no longer leaks, I had to do the screws holding it together very tight, I tried to fire up the mower this morning, after a few pulls there were some explosions/smoke and the chug, chug, chug so the mower wants to start. I'm now thinking I'll address the compression, anyone know what ring size to get for the Mayfair Deluxe? Also Blumbly, to get the boss off do you need to take the engine out of the mower to stick in a vice? In the process of looking at the carby again, the throttle switch has no effect on the butterfly valve, how can I fix this?

It is easier to get the boss off with motor off the base,unless you can get some kind of hard steel under it like a dollie,but is easier off. This one should have a metal cable inside a coil like tube. The cable inside most likely has a kink in it. It can be fixed you just have to find the kimk and using a pair of pliers to straighten it as best you can. This may well be the problem you have as if you can't adjust the accelerator then the carby can't give the engine the right amout of fuel it needs to run.

You are right about it having a metal cable inside a tube. The cable moves the governor part ok but it has no effect on the butterfly valve. So if I move the governor by hand the butterfly valve opens and closes, but the throttle has no effect. This happened before and I tightened it somehow by screwing the plastic serrated wheel a bit but now that doesn't seem to work.

It does sound like their is something funny there as where the cable connects to (should be a L sharped picece) that connects to an arm which should make the butterfly move. When when the engine is running the wind vein helps control that by the air coming from the flywheel.

This whole experience with this mower has been funny but on the positive side I have learnt a lot. If I hadn't invested so many hours in this I would have given up long ago. Would it help if I took some close-up photos of the governor mechanism?