OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions on Other Engines Victa 4 Stroke

Hi to everyone, I've picked up my first victa 4 stroke engine no ULT50. 500032B
It says on the top that it is 207cc could anyone tell me if this is a good motor and did they make a lot of them and possibly what year of manufacture.

Appears to be beefy motor and has a few things on it I havn't seen before, will post more as I go.

Hi roebuck, that is a Tecumseh engine, which Victa called Ultima. Here is a thread about it:
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...p;Words=ultima&Search=true#Post37882

Aw crikey' what have I got myself into, !!! � sometimes I think I should and then again} you have to sing that to know what I mean and thanks for that.

Gday tecoumseh lovers , lol I have a problem when I wind it over it seems to have too much compression so I pulled it apart to check the timing but as I lifted the sump of the timing cam popped out . Put the timming cam back in how it is supposed to be I think ( lined the dots up) then I turned the crankshaft and it appears to be easier to turn. It looks a little different to the briggs but all works the same I guess. I'm wondering if the decompression was jamed or something. Valves look ok.


Can you tell me if I have the timing right in the first photo and how the decompressor thinky supposed to work and when you put the timing cam in is there a certain way to put in so the decompression trigger works or does this sought itself out when I put the cam in. Sorry if I'm not real clear .

The little yellow thingy on the cam is the oil pump.. Other than that I don't know much about tecumseh engines.

Kori

Roebuck, personally i like these motors, when they're running right, but they are a pain in the a@%e when they're not. Yours was built on the 233rd day of 1995. Victa used them between 95-96 and then scrapped their use and went back to the Briggs quantums instaed of these. I'm no expert on these but i dont think that's s decompressor setup, i believe it would be the governor setup, which should sort itself out when its going.
Lining up the dots is a good start, but why pull it apart if the comp is abnormally high. First thing to check would have been to see if it was hydro locked and then the flywheel keyway.
Good luck, sorry i cant help anymore.
Cheers, Theo

Thankyou for your help,any help I can get is good.I am talking about the little lever with a spring that is attached underneath the valve timing cam .I wish I checked the Flywheel key first but I've never come across an engine that has done what this one is doing . Will get on it today and see what I can do . Will be back.

roebuck, like pretty much everyone else I am not prepared to get involved with what I considered a nasty engine from a defunct manufacturer. (I won't get involved with Victa 2 strokes either, for similar reasons.) However the engine you have was a Tecumseh VLV50, made to a unique specification for Victa, and not sold to the public. The specification, equivalent to Briggs' Type, was 500032B. Here are the parts lists for all of the VLV50 types that were sold in the US:
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumseh/vlv50.html
Obviously the Victa version is not included in the list. Most likely any part you require will turn up on one of the listed versions though, if you can figure out which one it was. (There are similar problems getting parts for Kirby Lauson engines, for the same reasons.) Only some parts are available now for Tecumseh engines, and those are not always easy to get.

Here is the full workshop manual for the VLV series:
http://ebookbrowse.com/tecumseh-ser...v66-vlv126-engines-695578-pdf-d319510378

If this were a full restoration program, you could decode the parts lists to figure out what the Victa variations were, see how to repair it from the workshop manual, pull the whole thing down, and rebuild it into an as-new engine. Making running repairs to it though, is difficult without being rewarding, because when you finish you still have a lemon on your hands, and it will be a problem to fix again next time it gives trouble.

No worries Grumpy, don't know why I pulled it apart other to have a look why it was so hard to pull over . Have pulled the Flywheel off which I should have done first like Bigted said and found the keyway sheared . I
Put a key in it and it fired up for about 10 sec but the key wasn't the right size so I've ordered a couple of keyways' as it is an odd shaped . Darn thing still way to hard to pullover. Thanks for the information above Grumpy . I just can't let it beat me

Gday bigted , what do you mean hydro locked? Cheers

bigted may have missed your post roebuck, so I'll give you an answer. If you get a fair amount of liquid - usually water or petrol - in an engine's cylinder, because liquids are incompressible, the engine cannot rotate to top dead center. This is commonly called "hydraulic lock" or just having "hydraulicked" the engine. Sometimes people do dumb things after it happens. I can remember three nasty incidents involving car engines. In the first instance, an amateur borrowed a very old FC Holden wagon and decided as an unrequested favour to the owner, he would decarbonise the cylinder head. He didn't do a very good job of reinstalling the cylinder head (re-using the old gasket), and cooling water filled one cylinder. Not recognising the signs, he tried very hard to rotate the engine, then gave it back to the owner. The owner found it was hydraulicked, and removed the sump to take a look. Sure enough, the center main bearing cap was laying on the sump: he'd broken both of the bearing cap bolts in his attempts to rotate it. In the second case, some experimenters were trying to fit a Bosch K Jetronic fuel injection system to a Holden V8. Due to them not bleeding the system before they powered it up, it injected fuel continuously, and hydraulicked a couple of cylinders. A slightly wiser mechanic was passing by at the time and told them what they'd done wrong, so they removed the spark plugs and spun up the engine on the starter to eject the petrol from the cylinders. Unfortunately they had not disconnected the low tension side of the ignition, so the loose plug leads were sparking to ground when they spun it, and a good sized fire resulted. In the third case, a fellow went bush with a brand shiny new diesel 4WD. He encouraged a friend to drive it through a river. Unfortunately the friend was inexperienced and allowed the car to drift sideways off the ford, so it dropped into 4 feet of water, and sucked in an engine full of the stuff. Undeterred the fellow bribed a local farmer to tow the 4WD out of the river, then found the engine would not crank on the starter. So of course he had it towed along the road with another 4WD, repeatedly banging the clutch trying to get the engine to rotate. When all that failed he had it taken back to the manufacturer on a flat-bed and claimed warranty. His claim was unsuccessful, and the manufacturer replaced the crankshaft and all of the rods and pistons.

After that graphic description, you'll probably remember what a hydraulic lock is. It happens from time to time to mower engines with gravity fuel feed, when somebody leaves the fuel tap on and the needle and seat leaks.

Thanks for that Grumpy, very interesting information especially about the fire . I don't think I will forget what "hydraulicked" is caused from ever! Ive never come across it before but at least a little more prepared for when it does.When I get a suitable keyway I hope to get it going and then someone can use it for domestic lawn.

Hi, I got the Flywheel key today and put the 4 stroke back together but before starting I left the spark plug out and turned it over to release the hydrolock if there was any,then put the spark plug back in and pulled it over a couple of times and she went like a bought one.thanks heaps grumpy bigted and kbalm for your help.

Oh and one last thing does anyone have an idea what the tourque setting for the Flywheel would be , even an approx will do because I have done this up with a rattle gun as tight as I could get it on a medium setting cheers.

roebuck, the specified torque if the flywheel is aluminium, is 400-440 inch pounds (33 to 37 lb ft) or 45-50 Nm. If you have a cast iron flywheel, specified torque is 42-50 lb ft or 56-68 Nm. Sounds as if you may have done it up too tightly with the rattle gun.

I will torque it to 35 lb ft neat then and is this the norm for most flywheels or are they all different and it is alloy.thanks again.

The torque depends on the flywheel material and the angle and diameter of the taper, roebuck. 35 lb ft would be reasonably suitable for most aluminium flywheels with a taper of the usual angle, and a diameter of around half an inch at the small end, but it is always better to check what is specified in the workshop manual. They will vary somewhat, and you can do very expensive and inconvenient damage if you get it wrong, whether too low or too high.

Ok that's great thankyou grumpy.

Nice work there Roebuck, you've gotta love it when a plan comes together.