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#42647 23/12/12 06:07 AM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
G'day fella's,
I am rebuilding 2 x full cranks 2 strokes.
One will be a side start, the other is off a super 24.

My query is the difference in the crank shafts, the one in the image on the left is off the super 24.

[Linked Image]


Also, sometimes I feel like I am the only one on the planet that has trouble getting these muffler clips on.
Currently I put the bottom clip on, then put the screw in to support the muffler, then lever the top clip on with my baby phillips head through the hole, not ideal but I always struggle with this.

[Linked Image]



Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 418
Qualified Junior
haha No your not the only one to struggle with the muffler clips,but Im getting better I can do it with out tools now..kind of hard for me to put in words how I do it may make a vid of how I get them on with no tools...Cheers

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
Hi Mark what you have found is the difference's in age.As I had brought to the forums attention in this post.
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...amp;Main=6267&Number=29763#Post29763
Check it out it will help a little.
The one still in the crankcase is an earlier version of the 160cc crank the other is the later model.Neither will fit each others crankcases as if you look they will have different shafts on them.If you have a look at the numbers on the crank case you will see there should be a difference in years.The one in the crankcase should be (From Memory,so don't get upset if I'm wrong) pre 1974 the other should be after that.If you could stick the engine numbers up I'll be happy to verify that.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
1st pic is the one in the crankcase, off the super 24.
[Linked Image]
This one is the side start engine.
[Linked Image]

I had a feeling that the round style may have been for commercial use, but it is age.
Great, thanks from Mark


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
Well your super 24 is 1971 and the second number I can't work out.I mean wow the second number 2 is upside down and I can't work out what the fourth number is.I'm thinking 8 which would make it 1981,but I can't be sure as it is hard to see.No it's got nothing to do with commercial use just a different design.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
I will have to start looking at these engine numbers.

The side start is back together and running.

I mounted it on an old base to test it.
Just have to fit a cowl and tidy it up.
It will be mounted on a super 24 base, as it is a good strong engine.

The reason this one refused to start, even with fuel in the plug hole, was a stuck top ring.

[Linked Image]


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
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What do you mean by stuck? As in stuck around the piston and wouldn't release? So did you get it going?


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
The top ring was stuck, gummed up with carbon.
Had a bit of trouble getting it out.
Cleaned the grooves with a piece of broken ring made into a scrapper.
The rings then sat back in wonderfully.
Replaced the seals and bearings.
Bore was good.
Yes it is running really well, dosnt look pretty, but it is about to mow paddocks.

I have had enough today, tomorrow I plan to start the second one.
My next question is:
I have a cylinder that has been bored out oversize that I want to make use of.
But it has the decompressor stem on the inlet maniflod blanked off.
What can I do? i'm not sure how to proceed.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I need to make it like this one below.
[Linked Image]


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
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The easiest way would be to put an impulse starter on that engine.As the use of the decompression valve makes it easier to start by pulling a cord.ie.zip,recoil starter.If you put it together without it and used a zip,recoil starter and the engine kicked back it could do some serious damage to you hand and wrist.I know I wouldn't want to do it,they may only be same engines but they can kick back fairly hard.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Thanks Blumbly,
I am aware of impulse starters, but thats about it.
I have never used one before.
I have heard that they can be dangerous to work on.


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
OK I'm not sure about dangerous I've never had a problem with them,in fact I'd prefer them as you don't have to pull cords as hard and as fast as you can.Just wind up and flick the lever,couldn't be easier.It would be safer to use on that motor without the decompression valve.I'm mean you can but it will be harder to pull cord and can kick back.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Yes, definately dont want the cord ripped out of my hands.
Its just some thing I would never have come up with myself.
So, do I need a starter cup fitted?


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,374
know nothing
you sure do , they have teeth on the inside not smooth like recoil starters . easy to see the differences . but they dont fit sidepull sometimes , a flat side one the cup end of the crankshaft

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Great vccomm, thanks, It will be an option if I can get hold of one.
Cheers


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Out of all the old engines here, I have made 3 that run really well.
This one is for my slasher. I like the side pull starter ,electronic ignition, decompressor, plastic carby & external magneto on these and of course the power.
[Linked Image]
The second one I put on this side throw, engine has the same features as above.
This is a wonderful unit now.
[Linked Image]

The 3rd one had points, internal magneto, top starter & G3 carby. I have removed the points and tried fitting electronic ignition.
This hasnt worked for me.

The engine will start easily but run eratically/missing.
Things I have tried:
I fitted all the different types of modules I have here, the blue atom I have I proved to be faulty. (Tired of removing the fly wheel now)
The one that worked the best was a power torque module.
Moved the plate to different positions (in the centre got the best results.
Filed down centre hole to move plate closer to the flywheel magnets (this did help but engine is still not running how it should).
Anyway thought I would share this.
[Linked Image]

Last edited by mark electric; 30/12/12 02:34 AM.

Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
I have now fitted a side start to one of my super 24's.
The transission is complete all 4 of my super 24's now have side starters and electronic ignition and decompressors.
I have found it makes them easier to start and more reliable.
I might have had a bad run, but I have had nothing but issues with points and top starters on these.

[Linked Image]


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
Qualified Junior
***
hi mark and guys .

just like to add that impulse starters can be rather dangerous i had one that i used regularly wound it up one day to start and the ratchet that stops the spring unwinding failed the full brunt of the spring shattered my thumb. ouch !

nice job mark , although i found that the original full crank with the original twin filter air intake have way more power than the side start ever had.


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