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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
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Hi all new here, I have a rover ranger xc model 252707 type 0224-01 code 82020111. I am trying to locate the lay out diagram of the drive belt, including the idler arm from the motor pulley to the gear box,also the lay out of the blade drive.I am not sure about the belts I have at the moment, could any one help as if the belts are A or B and what number should be fitted Regards Allan ( yappie )
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Hi Allan, and welcome to Outdoorking. The numbers you supplied are from the cooling air cowl of the Briggs and Stratton engine, not the mower frame. Your mower may be a model 5250, 5255, 52144, 52150 or 52155 (or some other model not mentioned in the parts lists). It probably has a model identification plate on it somewhere. The engine was manufactured on 1 February, 1982. We have some of the information you are looking for in the manuals section, but only in the form of an illustrated parts list. Here is page 9 of 12, showing the wheel drive system for the version which has tapers on the ends of the rear axles (the version with parallels on the ends of the axles uses a slightly different arrangement for tensioning the jockey pulley, which in turn applies tension to the V belt): ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2012/08/full-2772-7383-rover_ranger_xc_page_09.png) As you will notice, these diagrams are not entirely easy to read, and are not intended to be workshop manuals. I suggest you look carefully at the diagram, and return with questions. You may decide to subscribe to the manuals section of the site and download the parts list. Some of the parts lists we have, have been marked up to show the common way of referring to V belts (section and length) but unfortunately the Ranger XC list is not one of them. However you can find out what section of belt is required by measuring the pulley width. Usually a belt of a smaller section will drop to the bottom of the pulley groove, while one of a larger section will extend above the top of the groove.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
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Hi Grumpy Thank you for your assistance, I will work from your diagram and see if I can relate it to my mower, I replaced the drive belt , not sure if I replaced all parts correct,the main prob is the main drive belt will not disengauge when I used the brake/cluch,I have the same prob with the blade drive I think I have the wronge ajustments on all Regards Allan
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Allan, I'm not finding the diagram easy to follow, mainly because I don't have the machine itself here. The owner's manual says that the wheel-drive clutch operates by tensioning or releasing the drive belt: you push the pedal to declutch, then pushing it further applies the disk brake. From the parts diagram, this seems to be done by a push-rod that attaches to the pivoted link on which the jockey pulley is mounted. It sounds as if you may need to adjust the length of that push rod, so that the pulley slackens the belt when you push the clutch down, before the brake is applied. The owner manual tells you how to make the adjustment. Unfortunately the photocopy in the manuals section was made in black-white, not grey-scale, so the pictures are useless. However the words make the process fairly clear. My current interpretation is that there should be a clearance of 3 mm between nut 67 and block 78 when the clutch pedal is not being depressed.
Please post some pictures - it will help us all to understand the system, and will improve our archives after your problems are solved.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
Novice
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Hi Grumpy Thank you for your help, SUCCESS yes after playing around with the ajustment rods ( idler arm ) and clutch/brake I finally got all working. I have added some pics but was unable to add captions Pic 3 blade engage/disengage lever Pic 4 blade drive brake ajustment pic 6 brake clutch engare pedal pic 8 main drive and idler arm this has a rod running up to the front where the ajustment is made also for the disc brake this was where my main prob was as they work in conjunction with each other ,thank you once again and hope pics help other members Regards Allan
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 4
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Glad it has worked out Allan. It sounds as if the clutch pull rod adjusts at the front, not the back as I had guessed.
I'm having trouble sorting out the mechanism in my mind, from some of the pictures - the pull rod attachment to the idler pulley pivoted link, and its attachment and adjustment at the clutch pedal end. I also think two of your final adjustments look as if there is an assembly problem. The huge amount of slack in the blade engage adjustment does not look right, and its nuts seem to be free to rotate, changing the adjustment all the time due to vibration. Another adjustment seems to be screwed all the way to the end of its thread.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819 Likes: 6
Junior Technician
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Do yourself a favour grumpy, give up and pray to whatever lord you believe in that the subject does not come up again.
My dad has one of them, it was spitting the belt off, i went to take my daughter for a spin on it and it spat the belt and chewed it up.
I put new belts on it. Unlike Alan i ordered in the kevlar wrapped belts. We had had issues with it once before, deck height lever roll pin broken, you can see it in the last 3 pics on the shaft on the right. Although the rovers are pretty tough, the way they are put together is primative and the whitworth bolts are intollerable.
We now have an issue with trying to keep the back wheels on it. Keeps spitting circlips off. Its a solid axle job. Im tipping theres wear in the keyways in both the axle and wheel that letting the wheel chatter on the axle. Shes just a backup unit now.
If needed i can get the belt sizes, the old man should have them written down, or i might be able to find the invoice, i think i originally worked it out from the parts list.
Where in west vic are you??
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