OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines victa powertorque bearings

G'day, got a good engine for my utility. Its been bored 20 thou over at some stage and can still see the hone marks! Rings are borderline so may as well replace them while i'm at it. May as well put some new bearings ii while its apart which leads me to my question. Manual talks of a special too to support the inner race when pressing the crank into the top bearing. Does anyone bother and just press the crank in with no support? Was thinking of putting crank in freezer and heating bearing with a hot air gun to make it an easier fit and just tapping the crank through the bearing.

cheers
matt

Crank boss off??
Flywheel off.
I assume by the sounds of what you said its apart already.

Use an old blade nut, tip it upside down on a block of wood, blade nut on and drive it out of the casing with a hammer. it wont be overly tight but you will damage the nylock part of the nut but probably not to a point where it could not be reused, ive just got one nut and i use it over and over, they are pretty cheap to buy. The last bit you will have to do holding the crankcase above the block of wood. Remove the nut and take the crank out.

Then tap the bottom bearing out of the crank case with a pin punch or drift. Hone the bore and Clean the crank case up ready to put back together. If you have honed, hot soapy water and wipe the bore out with a white cloth, when the cloth is clean the bore is clean. Dry it well. Oven is good if the sun is not out. The blocks are a bit of a pain as the rough cast bits grab the rag and try and shred it.


The other bearing will come off the crank with a chisel or pin punch, mount the crank standing up in the vice grabbing it where the bearings do not run. Belt the bearing off using the outer race. Ive had some grumbly bearings and not one has blown to bits and last its balls yet.

Clean up the crank. New bearing on, gently, a bit of pipe is a good drift. Make sure this bearing is open both sides, i wash the grease out. Some dont.

Bottom bearing is a special bearing. Should be marked Victa on the bag/box. The seal side is metal and the other side open. You cant just use a regular bearing with one seal side left in it.

Offer the crank up to the crankcase, get the flywheel on, crank boss, and use a rattle gun to pull it all back together. You will need a washer to simulate the blade plate. To get it all together you may need to gently tap the crank down into the housing a little. But take care as this will push the lower bearing out what little you have it pushed in.

Then when you go to put the piston and rod back in be sure and slop a good teaspoon or more of 2T oil down into the bearings under the crank counter weight.


If you dont have the tools you might have a go about a slighlty different way. Just take care of that crank thread.

You talked of pressing so i assume you have one.
If so you could put the lower bearing into the housing and then push the crank in using a plate etc to stop the lower bearing coming out.


Cheers, Bob.

G'day Bob thanks for the reply. Great info

yeah she's already apart i used the method u described but i used a press to get the crank moving and finished it off with a punch. The boss and flywheel didn't come apart.

Good tip about the grease in the bearings, i'll wash mine out too.

Good idea about getting the top bearing in - didn't think of putting it on the crank first and then into the case! I'll just tap it in with a punch a little bit at a time all the way round.

I will pickup the new parts tomorrow, hopefully it will up and running Thursday

thanks again
matt

Having a press you could probably press both bearings into the block and then press the crank through easily.



I just do it that way as i do not have a press. But I do have lots of blocks of wood and lots of hammers.



Its probably a good idea to seperate the boss and flywheel.


A hammer on one side and a light tap on the other should see the boss come off easily. If not sit it on an anvil and tap a little harder. Not too hard up near the flywheel as that is the thinnest part of the taper. I have split a stubborn one before. Care is needed.



The washer is the trick. If you can get the crank through the bearings enough to assemble it, a washer in place of the blade disc and it all pulls together nicely.

G'day, got the bearings in today, just used a punch and a hammer. Had to support the crank inside the crankcase with a block of wood to stop the crank coming out when tapping in the bottom bearing. Used the washer and nut trick as you suggested and it all pulled together nicely! Spins very nice now!

next up is fitting new rings and putting the piston in.

thanks again
matt

Well shes back together and running! I had to swap bosses over as the utility disk is thicker. The two hammer trick worked.

Starts very easily. Only problem it won't rev real hard as the long spring in the carb has been trimmed at some stage.

I'll get some pics up soon

cheers
matt

Good to see you got her done, I went to buy an old anvil to use for bosses the other day but he wanted too much for it.

Here she is, its not perfect cosmetically buts it brand new inside. Its going to be a workhorse. My first photo post so hope it works.



I have an old bit of heavy railway iron about 2 foot long that i use as an anvil, a lot cheaper than an anvil! A good one goes for hundreds

cheers
matt

Matt, file manager works quite reliably for attaching pictures but if you use the fifth icon from the left right above where you are typing, the picture appears directly in the post and people don't have to click on it to see it.

I agree that most of what people use anvils for, can be done equally well by a couple of feet of heavy rail. I'd be inclined to mill the top flat to get a flat surface I think, or perhaps weld it to something so it would sit base-upward. The real anvils have some important features for trades-level blacksmithing, but just hammering things flat doesn't call for those features. A really good anvil has a hardened steel top face sweated onto a wrought iron body, and therefore doesn't dent on top unless you hit it really hard with hardened steel, whereas your rail is hard but not nearly that hard. However compared with the common practice of using the top of a vice for an anvil, the rail is way, way better.

Any hints for where we could all buy a piece of serious rail?

cheers thanks for that i can see the image icon now.

Maybe try scrap yards, they might be able to chop off a piece to length with a gas axe. My piece came from a scrap pile many years ago, i mainly use it as a beam in conjunction with a 20 tonne porta power to lift stumps out of the ground.

cheers
matt