OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers Rusty Tank

Hi All, I have a bit of a problem.

I'm restoring a mower that has a fair amount of rust inside the fuel tank, from being out in the weather for years.

I have cleaned up the semi-solid sludge that was in the tank, and flushed it out, however, i can see some rust on the bottom inside, and feeling the top inside serfice with my finger, i can feel alot of rust.

It's not really possible to get a wire brish in there, and I dont now how electrolosys would work considering the rust is only really inside the tank, and replacing the tank will be tricky, so i would like to save it.

Any ideas?

There seem to be two simple approaches available, Ty. Option 1, use a mechanical approach such as sand-blasting or scraping (with one or more curved scrapers). Option 2, use a de-rusting agent such as RS1. In either case there will be no impediment to rust re-starting, of course.

For many years I regarded mechanical methods as the only appropriate approach to de-rusting, but more recently I've used RS1 on a couple of repainting projects, and so far I've been happier with the results than I ever was with mechanical methods. It removes all of the rust, including deep inside lap-joints.

Who makes RS1?

I'll have a go at that then, due to the shape of the tank, there is very little i can do to clean it up satisfactuarly through mechanical methiods, it's a rough u-shape tank, with a number of extra indentations and nooks.

Out of curiosity, would molasses have a good effect on this, as i do have a large jar of it in the shed?

Derusting the inside of a tank can be a pain.
There are a few things you can do.
1. Cut the tank in half, sand blast or use electrolysis, then solder or weld back together.
2. electrolysis the inside, this still leaves the black steel inside though and needs wire brushing.
3. Use a tank sealer inside like this. http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/gold-standard-tank-sealer-information-and-instructions

4. I have heard the product CLR Clear can help as well.
5. Put some rocks or steal nuts inside with some water, seal it up and shake it like a rattle.

Cheers MVC, looking at your suggestions:

1)NO! (Dont have a welder, not going to learn on this one)
2)Could this be done in conjunction with the rocks/bolts idea?
3)I'm thinking some form of chemical is the way i will go
4)I like this idea, perhaps a mix if different bolts, nuts, washers and bearing balls might help out, at least to prep for chemical treatment by removing the top layer.

Yep I think:

number 2. with rocks/nuts etc is worth a try. I have not tried it myself yet.
Number 3. Works very well from what I have seen but is expensive.
Number 4. with rocks/nuts etc is worth a try. I have not tried it myself yet.

You might be the guinea pig.

Give them a go and let us know the results.

Martin

No worries, I think i will hit it with the rocks, then throw a chemical down, either the one you have suggested, or the one Grumpy did, whichever I see fiorst i guess! then i will post results.

Ive done that before.

Dry the tank right out. Hot air gun or leave it in on the hot water service or next to the heater.

A good hand full of blue metal, hand picked, gnarly shaped ones with pointy bits. Was them up and dry them out.

Then use Kerro or diesel with the stones. That way you can shake rattle and roll for weeks.

Dont use water as thats what made it rust in the first place.

Cheers Bob, I know where i can grab some good bluemetal thisafternoon too!

Bigger the better. Varying sizes. If it fits in the hole, and then down to about 10mm or so.


Thing is you only want to loosen the scale thats in there. Once you have that sorted, if you keep fuel in it and keep it pretty full and in a shed the rust should not get any worse.

That's tru, It's only rusty as it was left outdoors for some time, with no cap on!

Stones, or gem-polishing abrasive, or whatever, will work on the main surfaces but will not clean out the joints. That probably doesn't matter though, if you keep fuel in it so it doesn't continue to rust.

Here is a page that tells you how to use RS1, and some of the other phosphoric acid de-rusting agents:
http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9381&start=15
Note that while the acid eliminates the rust, it does not permanently passivate the metal. Paint manufacturers recommend that you paint exposed surfaces the next day. I don't do the Scotchbrite approach at all, I just paint on the RS1 with an old paintbrush, then leave it for 24 hours. It has dried up by then and does not need to be removed.

Mr Davis,
Here is another chemical option. People use it for rusty vintage car and truck tanks.
The stuff is called Red-Kote. Some data 4 both types-liquid and powder (make your own liquid - better for posting. Have a look at the following site.
www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/red_kote_dry.php
Your nearest retailer would be Bob Stevens at Southern Districts Auto Electric Service, 20 Ironbark Ave, Camden South, NSW. 2570. Phone 02 46558243
I have never used this product and certainy do not know anyone connected with the business in Camden South.
I have to get some of this for my 1928 Chev truck fuel tank.
Stationary

Ty...I would try the electrolysis to clean it up inside as much as possible and then seal inside and out with the POR15 tank seal kit. I have some here I use for motorcycle tanks and you can have some if you wanna stop by one arvo/evening. It will not take too much to seal it off but it needs to be prepped correctly. I would try electro and then a good wash out with metho and a few rocks...then seal with POR15. Red kote is supposed to be Ok too. If you have pin holes going to the outside you can also seal outside with some permatex chemweld and then cover with por15 sealer and then paint.